Skyline 'suspected' Ignition Issues?

[benji-nz]

Hi guys.

After many hours trying to figure this problem out, ive gotten no where!

My very recently purchased R32 skyline is having what i believe is an ignition issue.

Firstly within a couple of hours of buying the car, i was reading to overtake when the car started to go sluggish. no throttle, went into 4th, nothing, went into neutral and dash lights came on and engine stopped.Tried to restart, nothing, tried again nothing. cranked it again and it bursts into life. Drove another 100km and no further problems.

Then next day i drive it around, town etc, out to work, park up. Come back after work, reversing, think i stall as car dies, wont start. Keep turning it on/off and cranking and wont start. Eventually after playing with the coil-packs, ignitor and wiring around that area it starts.

Since then it has died while idling on the turbo timer, driving in a 50km area, refused to start multiple times, but has run great when its gotten going. To start it seemed to involve moving the connecters around near the coilpack and ignitor pack? but when moving those same wires while the car is going hasnt caused it to then stop (which would be more movement then it would possibly get while driving too i suspect)

I can hear it cranking, fuel pump start, and fuel pressure at the fpr, also oil pressure begins to build if continuously cranked.

The times it has died, i have wriggled the wires around the coilpack, ignitor etc and its started, but then when it running, wriggling the same

area doesnt make it die! Apparently the last owner has no record of this fault, and thinks it has come around since it had an AA inspection where

the inspector removed the coil pack to get to the spark plugs for a compression test.

Car is a R32, with RB25DET S1 conversion with wasted spark (in the worst place i would think it could be put) and chipped ecu of unknown kind, or type.

Checked battery voltage, is sitting around 11.95v on battery and around 9.5, 10v when cranking

I was looking at doing the ecu diagnostic but with it being a suspected chipped ecu, and not know much about it i dont want to cause a problem like

fry the chip/ecu etc.

Any help, question, or suggestions on what i should try next would be great!

(Though im already thinking a rewiring of the ignitor and coil packs might be the way forward as it appears that the AA inspection has broken a couple of the little troublesome clips in use. Local Auto electricians need the money too haha!)

Thanks for your time!

Edited August 30, 2012 by benji-nz

[iwanta34gtr]

Have you checked and cleaned your AFM?

Simple things first and if this doesnt rectify your issue, see if theres anyone around your area that has a spare set of coils / lead you can borrow before purchasing.

Note - you probably already know, but R33 S1 and S2 coils are different.

Edited August 30, 2012 by iwanta34gtr

[benji-nz]

Alright. I unplugged the afm, and it started, switched it off. Then left it to sit and tried again and would not start. Same issue, cranking but no start. Now that i have taken the

afm off ill give it a clean with some contact cleaner and put it back just for good measure.

Next ill see if i can get someone elses coils and give that a go!

[benji-nz]

Looks as though a loose earth from the ignitor may be causing the trouble. It wasnt very loose but just enough that it could disconnect, breaking the circuit. So will get that rewired properly and hopefully that will sort the issue! (Bloody wires)

[benji-nz]

Have done more hours of searching, and it looks like it was due to the AAC brown plug being disconnected! (SO MUCH TIME GAH!) Has been unplugged since i bought the car so thought nothing of it, but after considering the state of the plug, the fact it was getting voltage etc, i put it in and away she goes. Still more driving and chances to prove that was the problem, but the idle has become better, feels better, and generally is well, better!

[benji-nz]

Ok update. False hope, broken down in a busy intersection outside a school! Did some more testing, there is power going to the coil pack and there is no spark, so suspect it is the ignitor or the signal wires from the ecu. When the car has ignition on but not cranking, what should the signal wires from the ecu to ignitor be showing voltage wise? Currently there is 0v then around 0.8 volts when cranking.

Cheers!

Edited September 11, 2012 by benji-nz

[benji-nz]

After more searching and testing, getting Fault Code 21, and testing of the ignitor it appears the ignitor is to blame. Have upgraded to the J30 unit and the problems seems to of gone away!