Gtr R33 Top Mount Gtx3582R Won't Idle After Mods Runs Rich Off Gas

[MJTru]

Well when I got the car I noticed that the wide band 02 sensor is all over the place. Say I take off reach 3rd gear cuisin at like 60 70 miles at dead zero boost or vacume. I can feel the car surging go stop go stop like the power is coming and going. Now on WOT it works fine.

First off I should mention that I have a power FC in the car and I have looked over the whole power fc FAQ. But the problems are a bit deeper than that.

I'm using a greedy y pipe with two new z32 maf meters, cause I was thinking that it could have been the afm after many hours of reading. Now I also changed the fuel pump and went with an in tank Tomie pump, with fuel rail and regulator. Alone with spitfire coils and HKS plugs heat range 7 I'm planning on running only 1.2 bars not alot at all for those AFM's. Ok lets say the car is started witch it does fine after revving it. The idle would drop to the point where it wants to cut off, and it would just go rich before it starts to lean it self out. I mean rich below the 10 mark and if I walk to the back of the car, all I can see is just smoke rich smoke. Some times it cuts off or it will level it self out until I rev it again, don't get m wrong it free revs fine just hard to drive like this and the rich smoke will kill me.

I should mention that I set the fuel pressure to 2.5 bars with the hose on and 3 bars with it off.

Another major thing I'm thinking of here is.

Well there are no filters on the afm's I got them but they just havant arrive as yet. Do you think that no filters in front of the afm,s would cause this problem.

I,m also thinking of doing a full reitnialize of the power fc.

Is there any thing to help with tuning this in the power fc that I may be over looking.

I plan on making a video later on on how the car is running and post it for all to try and help.

I'm stumped and just spent g,s on this set up just to fine it won't run even after a simple turbo mod.

I'm thinking it's something to do with the y pipe and afm's I even used back the stock ones and the same thing. I notice that one afm v is less than the other by just a little.

Edited September 4, 2012 by MJTru

[DVS JEZ]

Has it been tuned?

[MJTru]

No not as jet but I need the dam thing to stay running, unfortunately, we have no tuners out here, well the dyno type.

I try with what I have. There must be some setting for throttle and injector setting so the injectors can stop firing once throttle is closed, I can remember seeing these setting in my haltech for my GTST. What weard mate is that I did a same mod to a GTST and the thing ran grate, drove off good just logged it and did what I could for the AFR's was for the ignition my hands are tied cause I will never be able to detect max torque but high know will be a sign, in forced induction applications. But I really do think I can work it out I just need a point in the right direction. I have a data logger I can log what ever you or anyone would need.

I thinking that I'm also royally screwed cause if it's bigger than me i really think I'm coming to the end of

all this car mod crap, and this gtr I'm sure is my last project I would hate to say in my situation, with all said no tuner I tend to do most of my own work, but man, I finding it easier to just work f--- cling hard and save my money. Or it may be easier just to learn how to be come a business owner and paypeople for the headache.

Well that it I'll hook up the data logger and learn more maybe the whole thing with me in it will burn to the ground

Edited September 5, 2012 by MJTru

[MJTru]

It looks like the mafia is on to something here atmo bov will stall and cause gear changes to be crap, alone with rich idle come guys, ideas on the solution to this problem.

Can I get a set of bov's that vent it back to the turbo. Where would I vent it back to. My greedy y pipe for my afm had a spot at the bottom for something like this but, when I got it, it was weld in closed.

[HKS-R33]

It could be your gt35r pulling air through the afm's after you have come off the throttle. Because the turbo is so big and its roller bearing they tend to do this. I had the same problem with a gtst with a gt35r and z32 afm.

Easiest fix for a single afm is to put it on the pressure side of the intercooler piping, not sure about twin afm's though.

Mike.

[KiwiRS4T]

You say your Z32afms have no filters - they could be duds - if you look around (Google?) you will find how to spot fake Z32 afms.

Where exactly are you? If you have a decent internet connection / mobile phone network Guilt Toy (on this forum) has done some successful remote tuning. Or I know a couple of tuners from here (NZ) who go to places like South Africa, Samoa etc to tune GTRs - I don't suppose you want to pay for a special trip but you may be able to take advantage of one of their planned trips.

[MJTru]

you know after alot of reading, i got the shit to work good on stock injector. i'll kill one thing right now ATMO BOV's wont work, I vented them back in all was ok. well in short, after my tune it ran like this check the link the clutch was slipping too.

so for all that dont beleive that venting BOV's outside will work on a AFM set up, and i did get some duds, Z32afm they were crap. They have no part numbers on them and i paid only 79.95 for them, i guess you get what you pay for. lol

It will only work when i use my haltech PS2000 with Map setup, in short you must understand how nissan intended for it to work. ATMO works good with MAP sensor setup not AFM

thanks for all your help mate. I'm ten times the man now, lol still only got two balls tho.

Edited November 11, 2012 by MJTru