R34 Stock Turbo Inlet And Exhaust Wheel Specs
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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
Time for millspec wiring, MoTec electronics package, Bosch Motorsport ABS, let's goooooooo!!! Maybe as @MBS206 suggested, just swap out those stupid blue relays near the ECU plug. -
My only regret with the NC MX5 was no space for a spare, even a space saver doesn't fit in I do have a couple of those puncture repair spray cans, but if I get a large puncture, or sidewall damage, I'm screwed until a tilt tray turns up I'm thinking I might get one of those 4WD style of puncture repair kits that have that rope stuff and glue, whilst it will kill any hope of saving a tyre, it might help getting me out from some backwoods road far enough to find a actual tyre shop if the first can of tyre fix doesn't work I'm keen to see how your new toy pans out Uncle Duncan, I'll be moving to the Highlands next year, you'll need to shout out if your heading to Wakefield, whilst I've lost my balls for happy laps, I still love watching those that can -
Yeah not sure what the warranty was, but it will be years outside it. I've shot Link a message, will see what happens, I'm told their support is good. It is a plug in, so its a Link board in a factory case, very easy to access both sides of the circuit board by removing the top or bottom cover. To be fair the the Link, although I've checked to the factory connections and wiring specs, as we learned with Neil's car in the early days not all ECUs source power the same way. He'd been running a factory ECU with no trouble for years, but when we plugged a PowerFC in it wouldn't start up, just kept cycling power on and off. We worked out that the car was missing one of the 10a fuses "Electronic Parts", and to Neil's knowledge it had never been there. Turns out the ECU pulled its main power from that source not the same place the factory ECU did. Point being....there are multiple battery and ECCS power sources in the factory ECU, and multiple grounds as well....not telling from the outside exactly what the Link uses (and doesn't use) -
Now, thanks to sonicii, onto the uneven floor from a tyre sticking 100mm into the boot space. I looked into options to raise the floor to the level of the tyre, and ended up going Extruded Polystyrene (XPS). EPS is what I normally think of as polystyrene, the annoying tiny balls that get glued into a flat sheet but XPS is quite different, much firmer and doesn't crumble if you touch it with anything. I also looked at things like heavy duty seating foam but XPS seemed like the right way. I picked up 3x 1200x600x50 sheets for $40ea. Initially I was looking for 100mm sheets because I needed to make up a 100mm gap, but as it turned out 50mm was available, much easier to work with and made it simple to store the tools I used a simple 15cm foam cutter to make the shapes. With some practice I was able to make reasonably clean cuts but I don't think Clark Rubber are going to be calling me to offer a job. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/405092315205?var=675175481574 First layer in place, 3 dimensions are tricky! Second layer in place, bringing it to level with the top of the spare Cutouts in the top layer for the tools With floor back in place, nice and flat with 100mm stolen but no real impact on usability
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