Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Bakemono Nissan S15 - Build Thread!


Recommended Posts

This head needs to know there is fuel nearby  whooshing through the fuel rail on its way back to the  tank, so it can be comforted by knowing money has been spent. ??

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/02/2020 at 6:36 AM, admS15 said:

1 x DW340 supports 312 rwkw on e85 for me through stock hard lines, stock rail, stock fpr. 

 

Anyway, Samsonas. Do it bro.

Yes to Samsonas, and also mechanical fuel pump.

Running electric fuel pumps isn't Don Mega in 2020 anymore.

The game has changed, 2020 is about 1000+ up, Samsomas sequentials, mechanical fuel pumps and MoTec M1

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Have been working two jobs to try & get this puppy on the road.

It's looking like I'll get it towed to TRP towards the end of this month.

As the focus is a nice streeter / track day machine I do think once tuned it'll be boost limited to conserve gearbox/bottom end. 

YTmC8AE.png

cMAFmeq.png

H0owhhr.png

ahNwsFk.png

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Looks like you're nearly ready for our challenge at Wakefield Park :)

I better get a new gearbox lol

Samsonas brah, you know you should. Bakemono you should too ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, I don't think anyone will be getting a samsonas haha.....we all need to keep our jobs first!!

Massive layoffs happening in construction industry atm!! I guess when the government cant make their mind up to starting big building projects thats what happens

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Build has entered raging bull mode. TRP have taken charge of the build now and started on the don mega fuel system, within a week it's just all out NASA spec really and not even necessary yet however I'd already forked out the coin (years ago) for plenty of Earls Ultrapro teflon, custom surge tank, custom fuel hat, etc so I went for it. Next up will be to finish the catch can filter, tidy up all the lines, fit oil pressure / 2 x map sensors, then its off to Insight for wiring & flex tune.

txHgHwz.jpg

w4eySq1.jpg

ttaIXCH.jpg

 

N2PoQxi.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If it is "Don Mega" or "NASA" then you shouldn't be using a welded up surge tank :)

don't be so sure:

https://www.nasa.gov/centers/wstf/supporting_capabilities/machining_and_fabrication/welding.html

 

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

However, I am ready for the challenge of who will break their gearbox first at Wakefield.

this you can be 100% sure about :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

However, I am ready for the challenge of who will break their gearbox first at Wakefield.

It won't be you... You made it off the dyno.....?

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Bosch stepped their game up! Nice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dose, AI didn't make the cut, their surge tanks are too small, look at the volume those pumps take up, damn near the whole canister. I had no choice but to go big spec with aircraft grade alloy and 10L volume. 

Gonna be needed to keep the fuel cool when I'm full tilt at wakefield coming in hot through the kink, should help with a bit of weight over the rears to keep me planted.

Micko, no Elixir in main tank, I would of needed a billet cradle for that puppy so for once I didn't spend the dollars. Leaving the Nismo lift pump in there.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So….. I’ve replaced all the coils and made sure I have a spark by fitting a spark plug to one of the new coils and cranking the engine. I’ve ensured I have fuel by removing what I assume is the ‘return to tank’ fuel line and cranking the engine. So I have a spark and fuel and the car still won’t run. Any ideas? may be time to get an auto electrician out! 
    • EFI Solutions aka Taarks have a great kit just for that. Better to have facts/data before making a decision. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/exhaust-pressure-sensor-pulse-damper-emap
    • I'm not sure why you removed the sound deadener???  Don't bother with DIY remedies... this is how you can do it properly. For the lightly stained areas, just stick to a fine grade wet sand paper....and then paint over once the stain is gone. For the worst areas...especially the pitted ones...you just need to sand the rust in the localised spot working down from a heavier grit to medium grit wet sandpaper, which will get most of the rust off. It's just localised rust from the spare wheel touching the boot. Don't go to town on sanding the whole boot...not needed! Try to avoid sanding the seam sealer etc (obviously) After the rust spots are down to bare metal - use a fine brush dipped in "RUST DEOXIDISER"...and carefully apply this to the little rust areas. It's important the chemical you use is DEOXIDISER. After applying that, let it sit for a while and obviously wipe off with prepsol before it dries, and repeat 3-4 times. If you go to a panel shop they will probably be able to sell you some - as the trade products are a shitload stronger than retail products. After deoxidising the rust, scuff the surrounding paint with red scotch brite....& then you are ready to apply etch primer and then paint the matte gray colour on. Mask up the surrounding area using tape & paper..... as you don't need to paint the whole boot, just blend it in and keep the repair as small as possible. Spray can paint or spray gun depending on your level of expertise will be fine. Probably will cost you about $100-$150 in materials.  
    • Interesting. The 30/900 looks right on paper but weather it gives me enough headroom is the question. I dont have a pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold so I won't know if I have a restriction unfortunately.
    • It depends if your current turbine is a restriction or not, if it is go up to the 35, it’s it’s not then stick the 30. Also the g30 turbine wheel will flow more then your gt30 one either way you go the compressor wheel is going walk away from your current turbo 
×
×
  • Create New...