Jump to content
SAU Community

Plenty Of Parts Sale (Splitfires, Rb20 Engine Etc)


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so I'm doing an rb25 conversion on my 32 and have a fair few parts I need to pass on,

1) splitfire coil packs to suit RB20, RB25 series 1 and RB26, they around 12 month old and I will include a brand new coil pack loom (was on the car for about a week)

Price $550

2) RB20det motor, done a head gasket in it but would be good for parts! Has no turbo, altenator, water pump etc as I used all those new parts on my 25.

Price $150

3) r33 manual gear box, has done 98000km and is in good condition, will include torque converter and r33 starter motor plate thing

Price $100

4) gates racing adjustable timing gears, got no use for them

Price $80 the pair

5) standard r33 intake box, just the box with filter, no snorkel etc

Price $50

6) r34 side mount intercooler, thickest of the nissans side mounts, good condition

Price $50

7) RB25 turbo, great condition, only done 98000km no shaft play

Price $120

I have a heap of other parts and will add them to the thread.

I'm located in Sydney near pennant hills so you can pick up and i can do local delivery for $10 extra and can help with the motor and gearbox as I have a trailer, interstate shipping can be arranged and extra cost for postage

Pm me here or I can be texted on 0425282661

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TPS off motor gone, considering parting out my motor If no one wants it, let me know if there is any parts you would like!

I can part the loom from the coil packs aswell if someone wants either of them,

$450 for splitfires

$100 for brand new loom! :0 so cheap!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Time for millspec wiring, MoTec electronics package, Bosch Motorsport ABS, let's goooooooo!!!   Maybe as @MBS206 suggested, just swap out those stupid blue relays near the ECU plug.  
    • My only regret with the NC MX5 was no space for a spare, even a space saver doesn't fit in I do have a couple of those puncture repair spray cans, but if I get a large puncture, or sidewall damage, I'm screwed until a tilt tray turns up I'm thinking I might get one of those 4WD style of puncture repair kits that have that rope stuff and glue, whilst it will kill any hope of saving a tyre, it might help getting me out from some backwoods road far enough to find a actual tyre shop if the first can of tyre fix doesn't work I'm keen to see how your new toy pans out Uncle Duncan, I'll be moving to the Highlands next year, you'll need to shout out if your heading to Wakefield, whilst I've lost my balls for happy laps, I still love watching those that can
    • Yeah not sure what the warranty was, but it will be years outside it.  I've shot Link a message, will see what happens, I'm told their support is good. It is a plug in, so its a Link board in a factory case, very easy to access both sides of the circuit board by removing the top or bottom cover. To be fair the the Link, although I've checked to the factory connections and wiring specs, as we learned with Neil's car in the early days not all ECUs source power the same way. He'd been running a factory ECU with no trouble for years, but when we plugged a PowerFC in it wouldn't start up, just kept cycling power on and off. We worked out that the car was missing one of the 10a fuses "Electronic Parts", and to Neil's knowledge it had never been there. Turns out the ECU pulled its main power from that source not the same place the factory ECU did.  Point being....there are multiple battery and ECCS power sources in the factory ECU, and multiple grounds as well....not telling from the outside exactly what the Link uses (and doesn't use)
    • Now, thanks to sonicii, onto the uneven floor from a tyre sticking 100mm into the boot space. I looked into options to raise the floor to the level of the tyre, and ended up going Extruded Polystyrene (XPS). EPS is what I normally think of as polystyrene, the annoying tiny balls that get glued into a flat sheet but XPS is quite different, much firmer and doesn't crumble if you touch it with anything. I also looked at things like heavy duty seating foam but XPS seemed like the right way. I picked up 3x 1200x600x50 sheets for $40ea. Initially I was looking for 100mm sheets because I needed to make up a 100mm gap, but as it turned out 50mm was available, much easier to work with and made it simple to store the tools I used a simple 15cm foam cutter to make the shapes. With some practice I was able to make reasonably clean cuts but I don't think Clark Rubber are going to be calling me to offer a job. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/405092315205?var=675175481574 First layer in place, 3 dimensions are tricky! Second layer in place, bringing it to level with the top of the spare Cutouts in the top layer for the tools With floor back in place, nice and flat with 100mm stolen but no real impact on usability
    • Sounds like a good idea to me moh
×
×
  • Create New...