Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Rb26 Long Motor/r32Gts4 Rb20 Engine/s1Rb25 Engine/ic


Jamie72
 Share

Recommended Posts

rb26 r34 gtr long motor,no sump or top timing cover,80000 kms,good condition,

bought this from the impound shop in act,then decided to go rb26/30 instead. $2500 slightly neg

S1 RB25 long engine still in car,(good comp,3 near new pistons,new head gasket,cam cover gasket,

timing belt kit(studs idler,tensioner and belt)new front and rear main seals,comes with inlet manifold $900 ono

R32gts4 Rb20 engine complete,was good running engine when i swapped it out for a Rb25,

been sitting for over a year now and is missing 1 oil squirter(stole it for my rb25)has engine loom but some coil plugs are brittle and broken..

$500.has a stagea sump atm but not included.Have ecu for $100 extra

Greddy return flow intercooler and Greddy pipes $300

post-43014-0-03742300-1348381424_thumb.jpg

post-43014-0-67048000-1348381501_thumb.jpg

post-43014-0-37067700-1348383023_thumb.jpg

post-43014-0-03301300-1348383282_thumb.jpg

post-43014-0-88428000-1348383327_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
    • I installed it all myself,  It was really easy to install.  I got a professional to do the degas/gas.
×
×
  • Create New...