Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Running Power Cable !


r34unit
 Share

Recommended Posts

hay fellas

just wondering if any 1 has run 0awg power cable for their amp, from the battery in the engine bay to the boot ?

if so whats the best way to do soo and what problems might i have?

cheers

I have two 0 ga runs no problems.except near fuses panel inside , you have to really keep it clear of pedals and fuse box , remove seats and do it right it must be taped / tied down its big enough to wander , never pass thru metal without grommet ( it fits fine thru factory grommet ) spray silicone and fish tape or old ford antenna works well to guide it , cut the nose at a slant before fishing it make it easier it wont catch on everything , go under the rear seat metal frame by seatbelt but stay clear of those and enter boot carefully a few choices exist but try to cross factory wires at 90degree angles

and engine bay do not cross shock tower and dont use the path the engine fusebox takes or noise will enter , fuse at battery alway it protects the car not the amp

0 ga will carry 300amps roughly max

Grounds must be 0 on battery to frame

And 0 ga on amp end too

Parts ,

Gaffer or black duct tape

Spray glue , spray the floor pan let sit for min then tape the wire down , just tape wont hold it in place

And dont spray glue the wire too or you'll play hell to remove it if you need to later on

zip ties

fish tape or cut off ford antenna. Solid steel kind cut off ball and use the other side as handle

solid connectors !!

split loom to protect on some spots

Grommets if you decide to drill ? Not required if you use factory grommets

snap knife to slice grommet a bit

Quality liquid electrical tape to seal grommet area if required or black rtv , if your careful you wont need it

Spray silicone to make life easy

Electrical tape to tape wire to fish tape

Pass under all frames inside car away from seat bolts /slides and not in the middle of carpet or it will wear thru it or leave lumps

Upgrade battery

And all grounds to alternator / frame

4 ga battery to alternator fuse and alternator to fuse , ground alternator frame bracket to battery 4 ga

easy done

Edited by Carbon 34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

so where do i run the cable through ?

is their a spot through my fire wall ?

Hidden Grommet in the corner near accelerator cable , brake cylinder corner you can use the accelerator cable loop on the shock tower to guide the wire around above the fuel filter

Its tight which is why you need fish tape or something to bend and arc thru the hole you slit in it , comes out high above fuses inside the car and takes a while to get the path clear of pedals and fuses cover , dont try to rush it or it could be unsafe under your feet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we are talking about an r34 gtt right ?

because i cant find the grommet you are talking about ! or maybe i have but dont know if its the one your talking about !

can you please help me out and take a pic of where it is.

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we are talking about an r34 gtt right ?

because i cant find the grommet you are talking about ! or maybe i have but dont know if its the one your talking about !

can you please help me out and take a pic of where it is.

cheers

yes Gtt , iphone no photo syndrome damn thing

maybe tomorrow i can take some and post up off pc , the grommet is buried back behind metal bracket thats screwed on in the corner

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry iphone cant post photos easy

The grommet is behind the bracket buried back in there. Take off the bracket mounted between firewall and drivers shock tower !! you will see it

in the next day or so that fender is coming off my car so I'll post up the photo with laptop

Pretty sure its already online and sau under blitz return flow fmic install on gtt !?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry iphone cant post photos easy

The grommet is behind the bracket buried back in there. Take off the bracket mounted between firewall and drivers shock tower !! you will see it

in the next day or so that fender is coming off my car so I'll post up the photo with laptop

Pretty sure its already online and sau under blitz return flow fmic install on gtt !?

Try the hole in body in the corner under the bracket , if you slit it and run a fish tape it comes out above the fuse block inside

Take off the trim so you can fish it out and guide it away from ( below ) fuse block and gas pedal

Edited by Carbon 34
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hrmm so the braket is mounted on the fire wall in the right hand corner ?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/post-1416-1152600197.jpg

can you circle or high light where i should look.

sorry for the crappy picture

dude its a crappy iphone nothing is simple

See the blue plate

See the cadmium plated ( goldish) bracket with a ten mm bolt next to the grey plug ?

Unbolt that 10mm bolt tip the bracket out as far as you can and look down there is a hole in the chassis about 100mm in diameter with upside down grommet when you poke your fingers in the hole you will feel it

Get a fish tape or heavy coat hanger with a pre bent arc , slit the grommet big enough for a tight fit , spay with silicone , cut 0 ga on a single angle , tape to fish tape so all copper is covered and a bit further back better too much then not enough

Once silicone hits it you wont get tape to stick again

Spray the wire with a rag behind your spray , smear it up and down the wire you may need to do that a few times

Feed wire from engine bay towards back

Fuse it and connect after its finalized in boot

0 gauge can handle aprox 300 amps max for short time , less on hot days , CCA wire less

(Copper clad alloy)

remember if that thing arcs without a fuse ( even with one its still going to throw a huge spark before it blows a fuse ) its going to possibly catch the car on fire !!!! so use care !! tie it down etc

If it hit a metal fuel line instant fire , it will arc right thru the line like a welder

Do not pinch it or coil up the extra wire under carpets , get it set up the way you want and cut off the rest , never splice it back together its bad practice and creates a resistance

expect new AGM battery

And new high output terminals to match

That factory battery will be toast with a big amp

And those factory terminals suck balls and restrict battery options

Update the ground to engine and frame

0 ga to frame

4 gauge to alternator bracket bolt

At the least

Edited by Carbon 34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

take the plastic inner guard off from behind the front drivers wheel, or take out like 3 screws and fold it back a little. its a big black grommet with the bonnet release cable running through it. cant miss it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

failing that theres a grommet up behind the glovebox on the passenger side which is slightly easier to get to =)

Do not run cable across the car stay on the battery side , its bad practice and creates Resistance , plus turbo heat melts wires

And it would take another meter or more wire $$

At this point if you cant see the hole and how to run it , go see a pro ,every car has ten ways to get cable into the car , another choice is under the car but that requires a lot of safety considerations and more cash to protect the car and wire from damage

there is a good video on wire protection on the worlds highest scoring car audio comp truck shows the right way to run under a car when you have endless cash ( do not run under the car without watching how and following the same principal idea skylines have a lot of pinch points to avoid)

It passes thru piss easy its only fussy inside the car because 0 ga is so thick you have to make 100% sure its secure or it will pop up while driving

Or annoy you with a lump in the carpet !!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

take the plastic inner guard off from behind the front drivers wheel, or take out like 3 screws and fold it back a little. its a big black grommet with the bonnet release cable running through it. cant miss it

Thanks , but you dont need too do that even

but maybe they can find it that way ??

if not maybe paint it neon yellow and flashing leds! Serious its not hard to see

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

haha all good boys found it the gommet. the key point is to pull back the guard lining ! u cant see it other wise ! once i did that i run the cable in 15 mins !

and the last system i built i got a 145db with 2 12s running off 2.5k rms on music so i have a little experience with car audio !

cheers guys thanks for the help !!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha all good boys found it the gommet. the key point is to pull back the guard lining ! u cant see it other wise ! once i did that i run the cable in 15 mins !

and the last system i built i got a 145db with 2 12s running off 2.5k rms on music so i have a little experience with car audio !

cheers guys thanks for the help !!!!

Your welcome

Was that in a skyline ? or ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...