Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Diy:disable Hicas, Retain Power Steering. For Free!


blk94r33
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've just encountered a similar problem to this with my S2. Power steering seems to be heavier than normal but it's a constant not intermittent problem. HICAS is plugged in and no lock bar or dash lights. I'm going to check fluids soon but I'm guessing it's a pump issue or the speed sensor?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just encountered a similar problem to this with my S2. Power steering seems to be heavier than normal but it's a constant not intermittent problem. HICAS is plugged in and no lock bar or dash lights. I'm going to check fluids soon but I'm guessing it's a pump issue or the speed sensor?

Check your fluids first there should be a light on your dash unless the globe has already been taken out. Has your car got an aftermarket steering wheel? By memory my was low fluid or the pump

Edited by paul_psi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its strange because I had aftermarket steering wheel on my car and the hicas light would come on when id go over 100kph roughly and didnt go out till I turnd the car off then once I put the bar in the light was on all the time when I put the bar in I also put coilovers tie rods lower control arms ect so it went straight on a tow truck to pedders and the aligned it all for me and they fould the no power steer problem and they told me it was the pump or electrical I drove around for a couple days before I checked the fluid to find it was bone dry I topped it up had power steering again but driving it with no fluid must had wrecked the pump so when I changed it everything was fine just the hicas light and when I put the gtr dash in I just took the globe out im not sure if having a microtech or any aftermarket computer makes a differance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys new to forum and I was just curios due to my car has a lock out bar (not lock out kit) and my car still has hicas ecu plugged in and all I have done also is remove dash bulb and still retain factory sexy and I have never had an issue and have never had to do what blk94r33 did to fix he's issue, but in saying this my mates 33 power steering pump works on start up but stops working when you start to drive, he has lock out bar and ecu is still plugged in but has this power steering issue

Any advice will be very great full and both cars are S1 33 sedans

Sent from my iPhone using SAU Community

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does both you and your friends car have abs? Because the hicas ecus are different apparently and that may be why. Also does your friends car rev slightly when turning the wheel when stopped? Because if so it could be the speed sensor for the power steering, its working when stopped but not when moving? I am an amateur myself so I am just spit balling here, perhaps the experts on here can shed some light.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey dude both our cars are series 1 which don't have abs, andim not sure if it revs higher when u turn steering wheel, and speed sensor what does this have to do with power steering issues, but I was told by him that he's speedo has stopped working and at same time that's when he realised power steering was not working, but I've read up and not really finding anything about speedo affecting the power steering due to the power steering lines have one solenoid which is controlled via hicas ecu and as I said all my loom n hicas ecu is plugged in and works mint no steering problems and he's is same yet steering issues could it be he's speedo is f**ked and if yes please explain as to in like confused to y it would

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My best guess is something to do with the busted speedo, as I've read on these forums that the sensor which controls how stiff the power steering is at which speed, is usually to blame for a problem like that, especially seeing as it works to begin with but soon stops once you start driving. I reckon fixing the speedo will fix the power steering too. Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Sorry to bring this alive again but THANK YOU SO MUCH SEVERE!!!
Joined up to SAU just to say thanks you to severr33
This solved my 12 month problem of no power steering. Tried so many other things (besides Hicas Ecu replacement)
But now that ive done this i can rule out the Hicas ECU. Solder those wires back together and try order one somewhere and hopefully it will fix it.
My forearms thank you again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Hi all i tried the method of connecting pin 5 to pin 14 by simply unplugging the HICAS ecu, then getting a small wire and bridging those 2 sockets on the plug.

To my surprise it actually turned on my ignition and dash as if i had turned my key to 'accesories'. (my key was NOT in the car)

I started the car and the power steering was uneffected by this method.

Is the pin relating to the power steering solenoid in a different hole?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...
On 12/23/2013 at 6:25 PM, blk94r33 said:

14 months on still functioning 100% and i've had no problems with any steering components.

Hi Paul, reviving an old thread here (hopefully).

Just wanted to check in and see if after all this time if you still never had any issues with the steering?

On a side note, does anyone know which pin is the speed input into the HICAS ECU?
According to the wiring diagram for the HICAS ECU, pin I see that pin 12 says "Engine Speed" and pin 31 goes to the "ECM", 'Data link connector" and "Vehicle speed signal (in meter)", but I'm not sure which is the input. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • All the Pro and Comp series IC are made to order. Unfortunately not off the shelf as you would think. I waited 2 months for mine LOL...
    • Thanks mate, great advice. I just need to try and get one by the end of November now.. it can't hurt doing both and taking outside air in from the bumper or something like that.
    • Hey man its been a very long time since i've been on the thread sorry man. Really good to see your car getting along, sounds like a lot of effort and love has been put into it. Currently my car is regoed in victoria as a non turbo from before the conversion lol, so that front mount might cause a bit of suspicion. All the work to the motor was carried out by rajab racing down here in melb, and its a bloody ripper of an engine. Has the beautiful iconic turbo dose. Still currently running the factory 5 speed gearbox so we'll see how long that holds up. Currently only making about 140kw on pretty low boost, once a stronger gearbox and possibly internals are bought and installed im hoping for around the 200-250kw mark. Car goes hard for what it is, extremely fun to drive. Here are some photos, will post some more exterior and interior ones soon if you like. Only exterior change is installed black ti wheels because they look much better than the silo wheels on the white car. 
    • Half the kit is here so got a start. Just jap rears from eBay here in a few days, sleeka spares front kit direct from them, still stuck in Melbourne (rom SA) since the 22nd =\ Realised I do not have a 36mm socket so couldn't remove the rear hub, which is the half of the kit I have. Plan was to disconnect the arms to swivel the knuckle down to remove drive shaft and get access to the bolts at the back, after disconnecting them all the thought occurred to me that I can probably just disconnect the shalf at the diff and push it out of the hub instead and leave the arms, oh well.  Do have a 30mm so prep'd the front. In love with new impact gun, in love with hoist, in love with small 12v power ratchet, Wish I had bought some of this years ago, makes life and working on the car so much nicer.  Car looking even sadder now.
    • Plazmaman Pro or Hypertune are the go. Plazmaman more likely available straight off the shelf and a bit cheaper.   In all honesty, I would do the intercooler before you do too much else. Airboxes arent as essential as a lot believe, they do make a difference and they help and given they're fairly cheap and simple to make its not a terrible idea, but - an airbox isn't going to bring 60° charge temps down very much at all. 80° ambient temperature at the pod filter isn't terrible, your turbo is going to be heating the charge air a lot more than that. So your intercooler sounds horrendously inefficient.  Cold air intakes from outside the engine bay are also unnecessary, the positive lift and drag you cause by doing that is more harmful to performance than warm IAT's. Unless you can duct air in from an existing opening in your front bumper. But in reality there is already plenty of cold air going to your pod filter, these engine bays are not stagnant pockets of hot air, there is plenty of movement in there. Get good intercooler, fit that, go for a retune. If your intake temps are still up over 50°, then think about making an airbox and fitting a water sprayer etc. But I bet you'll find a Plazmaman Pro cooler has your charge temps back down around the low 40's
×
×
  • Create New...