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Full-Race Ets-Pro Centre Diff Torque Split Controller Install Into R32 Gtr


Blue32

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Hi Andrew - thanks for putting this together, those photos are great.

One important note: The ETS-Pro G-Sensor must be firmly affixed via 2part epoxy!! Double sided tape is not secure enough and can cause inaccurate readings and signal noise. Please update your PDF if possible!!

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Hi Andrew - thanks for putting this together, those photos are great.

One important note: The ETS-Pro G-Sensor must be firmly affixed via 2part epoxy!! Double sided tape is not secure enough and can cause inaccurate readings and signal noise. Please update your PDF if possible!!

Thanks Geoff - the reason I mounted mine with double sided tape and 3 thick zip tips (which will not move even a little) is so I can move it at later stage to experiment - for those permanently installing the G sensor obviously epoxy is the gear to use. I will update the PDF once I get back from the weekend :-)

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Initial thoughts after 2 runs - excellent. Can really feel the 4wd working much harder, running in auto mode at around half gain. Currently 3rd outright with pb by half a second on my second run :-)

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Geoff - this controller is amazing. I could feel it working far better than the factory system with piggyback type controller I had previously. The rear diff was locking at a far lower speed - confirming the 4WD had preload and was ready to rock!

With completely worn out A050s (and I mean they were bald and had no visible tread at the completion of the event) I managed to knock 1.5 seconds off my best time from last year with no other change to the car (the tyres were new last year as well!). Final result - 5th outright from 150+ competitors.

Most competitors in the top 20 had either special compound hill climb tyres / or new super soft semis or slicks. I am confident new tyres would have resulted in another second or so of time reduction, however the race budget has taken a hit lately with house renovation underway!

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sorry to confuse. the ETS-Pro is a standalone torque split controller and g sensor. It replaces the factory components, but there is no need to remove them

Just to be clear, my OEM g sensor is busted, so I can remove it and use this module instead?

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This module gives you higher performance than the stock system. It does not require the stock G-sensor be in the car whatsoever - You can remove it, keep it in place, do whatever you like with it.

The only reason some people like to keep it in place is to keep the stock gauge moving happily on street cars. edit: on race cars this is a non issue of course and every ounce matters so they get chucked

Edited by Full-Race Geoff
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  • 4 weeks later...
I'll be testing mine tomorrow at Wakefield. Haven't driven her for 12months so hopefully I can remember what it used to feel like...

:yes: good stuff john - eager to hear your feedback

Going to give this a bash tonight so thanks for the write up! I'm going to assume that the 4wd light on the dash is going to come on after the install and the globe will need pulling? Also why did you reinstall the Factory control unit?

the 4wd light will come in IF you leave the stock computer's solenoid wires disconnected (since the ETS pro is now connected to them). To keep the light off you can wire an 8ohm resistor into these 2 wires (dummy electrical load) and the computer thinks its still working, so light will be off and the gauge functions normally

**note - the ets-pro wires should not connect to the 8ohm resistor or to the stock computers solenoid wires** (this should go without saying but we did have 1 customer who did not follow the directions and hooked the wires up crazy, frying the circuit board)

Edited by Full-Race Geoff
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Ripped out the interior and did some other things and then went to install the ETS-Pro, the length of cable for the G-sensor is way too short to run between rear parcel shelf to where I wanted to locate it (where the stock G-sensor is located) so I gave up. Geoff it might be worth making that cable longer, I think mine was well under 1m long so no real chance of either getting from behind the dash to the middle of the car or the rear parcel shelf to the middle of the car.

Anyways, my plan now is as follows (can you please let me know if I have any incorrect ideas)

  • Install the ETS-Pro in the center console and run wires through the base
  • Remove the stock G-Sensor and cable tie the standard loom out of the way
  • Remove the stock factory ETS control unit
  • Epoxy the G-sensor just in front of where the factory G-sensor was located
  • Earth the green wire
  • Run the Black/White wires through car under carpet using dual core to connect to the same wires Blue32 used in the boot using some dual core
  • Run the Blue/Red wires through the car under carpet using dual core to connect to the same TPS and switched 12v wires from the same pinouts that Blue32 used
  • Run the Brown wire to the hand brake switch
  • Run the switches to the dash and mount them

Any issues with any of that?

Is removing the factory G-sensor and ECU going to cause any issues apart from the dash light coming on? The ATTESSA pumps, regulator and switches don't require the factory ECU to be in and powered to work just the signal from the Black/White wires of the ETS-Pro?

Edited by SimonR32
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hi simon - ill address the items you brought up:

a) ETS pro in center console is what I did, it seems most people like to put it under the parcel shelf, doesnt matter

b) There is no need for the g sensor to be located at the stock position like the stocker. It just needs to be firmly attached (like you said, epoxy! not double sided tape) to the center of the car with the arrow pointing forwards. Of course there is nothing wrong with lengthening these wires also just unscrew the wire from the terminal block

c) if you remove the stock ets unit / g sensor/ wiring you will get the 4wd light on, and your gauge will not work. Some people want the gauge to move about so they leave it in. I also expect you would lose your ABS by removing this but most GTRs serious about performance would eliminate abs anyway since it is not a motorsport abs system

d) the attessa pump only gets +12V from the turn on relay, removing the wiring should not affect that - only the pressure switch should. The solenoid (what you called the regulator) is controlled by only 2 wires and those go to the black/white wire on the ETS-Pro

Edited by Full-Race Geoff
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  • 11 months later...
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