Jump to content
SAU Community

INFO on R31 with RB20DET

urbanoperations
 Share

Recommended Posts

urbanoperations Proficient

urbanoperations

Posted
Posted

hi all

i am looking at getting an RB20DET for my skyline R31...

At The Moment i just have a Couple of Quick Question..

does the RB20DET loom bolt Str8 up into the existing rb30 loom spot and computer??

Do you need to run an after market ignition System, like microtech or something like that?

Does the Rb20DET bolt straight up to the standard rb30 engine mounts?

Is it worth having an LSD or is standard Single Spinner Diff Good?

Do the Standard Brakes Stop it? or is it worth upgrading them??

but something has got me stumped here, How do you start the things when they run coils and transistor unit? can i adapt the rb30 ignition loom into it or something like that?

Does the Fuel Pump Need upgrading??

Thanks for you help all...

:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

You are probably best off getting a front-cut, where you will get the engine and a loom & ECU. Otherwise, you will require an aftermmarket system. There is no way the R31 ECU will run a RB20 - as you pointed out, the RB20 runs multiple coils (triggered by a CAS), while the RB30 runs a distributor.

The RB20 will slot straight in on the R31 mounts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
urbanoperations Proficient

urbanoperations

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea i know that but i can get an RB20DET Eccs out of an R32 with a LOOM and computer, and im wondering if i wire that all up and put the computer in the spot where the rb30e computer goes, how is it going to fire off the coils and stuff, because i dont really want to get an Aftermarket Computer and wiring loom for it because i wanna keep it a simple project...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

If you get a RB20DET loom and ECU, they will have everything required to run the engine, including working the ignition system. All you need to do is pull out the RB30 ECU and loom, and replace it with the RB20 ECU and loom. I'm guessing the RB20 ECU will mount in the same spot as the RB30's (that's where the RB20 mounts - behind the passenger kick panel).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
urbanoperations Proficient

urbanoperations

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea it does but, how can i run the aussie dash with the rb20det ? like temp gauge and oil pressure gauges in the aussie dash? also would i use a R32 Starter motor loom and adapt it to the battery so i can start the rb20det??

Link to comment
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Starter motor loom??

You basically are using the RB20DET engine loom (start motor would be off that i assume), the RB20DET ECU, and from that you splice into the dash loom to get your little gizmos working. But most of that stuff is separate to all the engine sensors and that sort of thing.

All your coil firing and ignition stuff will be controlled from the RB20DET ECU, so don't stress about that side of things.

Some adaptions need to be made also, i believe for the fuel pump system, and other bits and pieces such as the guages, speedo, tacho, etc.

Anyhow, I will admit I am just going from what I have read, not done. Bozz knows all.. In fact just bolt it in and pay him $500 or whatever he charges to wire it up for you :)

Apparently not massive difference between stopping power of R31 and R32 brakes, so not required to be changed for engineering in many states.

LSD would be nice.. you're going to have troubles with the single spinner and feeding power through it to the ground on takeoff. A diff specialist told me the borg warner *should* be strong enough in terms of holding out (e.g. not go cactus), but LSD would be better. The single spinner should handle the power and stay alive for a while, if you don't do massive burnouts, take it a bit easier right off the line, and crap like that.

and before you ask.. no you can't fit an LSD from any import model skyline in. You'll have to get an aussie B/W LSD that fits the housing.. can be hard to find these days. Expect to pay around $1k to go to an LSD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted
Apparently not massive difference between stopping power of R31 and R32 brakes, so not required to be changed for engineering in many states.  

All turbo R31's had bigger brakes factory standard, and in Victoria a brake upgrade is required for an engineers certificate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mcboost Enthusiast

Mcboost

Posted
Posted

hey mate, i just finished doing the saame conversion about 4 weeks ago, these guys pretty much covered it, you will need to pull the temp sender out of the rb30 and putit into the rb20det, and same with the speed sensor that screws into the side of the gearbox. as for the tacho, you need to run a seperate 12v inpput onto the line with a 10kohm .5 watt resistor between the 12v and tacho signal wire. beasides that i used the alternator air con pumps off the rb30, they bolt straight on, its all pretty much bolt straight on stuff, also your turbo dump wont exactly fit you zorst so u may need a custom peice made up, i used a rb25 zorst between turbo and cat and it fit really well. besaides that its pretty easy. good luck, any other quest, let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
urbanoperations Proficient

urbanoperations

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh ok, i currently have got turbo Import brakes on my R31 atm which would probably be good for the turbo conversion, although i dont think i would run powersteering because the racks always leak oil out (trw), but yea i can easily get that zorst system made up... i think id buy another clean skyline and work an rb20det into that one...

thanks for you help all....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mcboost Enthusiast

Mcboost

Posted
Posted
ahh ok, i currently have got turbo Import brakes on my R31 atm which would probably be good for the turbo conversion, although i dont think i would run powersteering because the racks always leak oil out (trw), but yea i can easily get that zorst system made up... i think id buy another clean skyline and work an rb20det into that one...

thanks for you help all....

i sent u a pm, make saure to check it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Problem with 5th after manual swap on R32 GTS4

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would absolutely be starting with this idea over all other possibilities. It sounds f**ked.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rob's S Chassis track cars- 180sx and S15

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Walbro 460 in r32 gtr

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.
    • TheOrangeSkittle
      Problem with 5th after manual swap on R32 GTS4

      By TheOrangeSkittle · Posted

      I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly.  Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.    Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.  But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.   The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.   If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down.  But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.  As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth.  It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.    Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.    One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad.  Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there. 
    • Butters
      Tomei Oil Pump on Early R32 RB26 Crank?

      By Butters · Posted

      So what did you end up doing ?  and is it still alive today ?    
×
×
  • Create New...