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My R34 Gt-T Street/track Build/diary

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Bought the car in May 2006 with the following mods off a fellow SAU forum member:
18" Rays TE37s
TEIN Adjustable Suspension
HKS Cat Back Exhaust
3" Split dump and Front Pipe
Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler
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Drove it for a few years just replacing maintenance items in between, Walbro high-flow fuel pump, and extreme heavy heavy duty organic clutch.

Drove it stock for a while then got a Nistune tuned by Trent @ Chequered tunning, made 200rwkw:

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Rotors decided to give up so replaced them with the new style DBA 4000 slotted rotors with HPX pads:


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After a little while I noticed my oil temps where hitting 130 on just normal drives, a little while later my radiator blew up and the engine boiled over.

So replaced the stock tiny radiator with a 55mm alloy radiator. Straight fit no real issues:

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To Keep an eye on water temps, as the stock one is useless I installed new Autogauge gauges:

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In the 6th year of car ownership I decided to get into Track racing, so firstly had to mount a fire extinguisher: Custom made allow bracket. Had to be sturdy to pass scurtineering at the track days

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First time out at Sandown, it was raining that day but my best time was a 1:47. Tyres were Ku31 front and Nitto Invo’s on the rear.

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Month after the next track day was at Winton, best time was a 1:49, intercooler hoses kept blowing off. So replaced them with Norma constant tension hose clamps and new silicon hoses. Also did a compression test and was 165 to 170 across all cylinders
This was the result at Winton after blowing off an intercooler hose. Massive flames and burnt rear bar:

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New seats and harness as I was being thrown around the car on the track days:



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The following month was another round at Sandown this time in the dry, my best time this time was 1:33. Was pretty happy with that!
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Pads gave way on that day:

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Decided to upgrade the turbo, as it was still on the stock turbo at 12psi, and didn’t want the turbo to take out the engine on a track day, especially at a place like Winton where towing costs would be ~$1K.


Following mods where done to prep the car for the next Sandown Round in Dec 2012.

· Hyper gear SS2 Turbo

· Manifold from Stao which had been ported for better flow

· ID 1000 Injectors

· 3Inch JJR bellmouth dump pipe

· Cometic manifold gasket

· Genuine turbo gasket kit

· Inconel nuts and bolts

· Scotty 3inch metal intake

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Dump pipe didn’t really match up to the gasket so had to open her up:

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Gasket was fine around the SS2 turbo:

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Bought a cometic intake manifold gasket listed for a R34 GT-T but didn’t fit. Seller said it was for an R33 and R34 but as you can see it wasn’t the same, never got a refund for it either lol


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Off to Trent @ Chequered Tuning for a tune:

 

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Car made 265rwkw with coil packs missing all over the place

19.7 psi down to 15.7 psi drop


So got some Yellow jackets:

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Re-Tune with Trent before the manifold burnt a hole through a new turbo silicon hose:

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Final Tune with Trent, where I bought another new silicon house and heat wrapped it:
20psi going down to 16psi up top



Car was now ready for Sandown, hoping to crack under 1:30!

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So 3 days before Sandown my car got stolen :(

It was seen get thrashed and filled up with 91 Octane fuel, there was CCTV footage of the guy at the petrol station. Due to the power of facebook there were sightings and it was eventually found 3 days later in the same area as the petrol station.

Car was broken down and engine was gone.

Car got so hot the coil packs looked like this:

These are the brand new JJR coilpacks. Note valley cover was removed so coil packs exposed, and my bonnet hinges also up to allow air to pass through under the bonnet as well.

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We used a bore scope to look inside and so far we could see some cranked pistons. Engine still cranks over.

All the coolant from the engine had gone and the new Castrol 10w60 smelt really burnt.

We also filled the radiator up with water for a test, and could see that the water was filling up the head. And also pissing out the back of the block.

So it is likely the head gasket blew, lost all coolant but the theif continued to thrash the car causing the engine to die.

The plan was to get a R34 GTR but circumstances changed, so I decided to keep the car and use the insurance payout proceeds to fix the car and get back on the track

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So now we are at today!

I have tried to keep the budget to around ~10-12k (parts & labour)

I have thought about a stroking it (rb26 crank), rb30 or high comp but think I will just go with a standard build?

Plan for the car is 300-330rwkw on 98 octane. I think anything over 300 you start to lose tractability on the track.

So are here is the list of parts I have come up with:

Parts

Pistons - CP

Piston Rings

Conrods - Carillo H beams

Big end bearings – ACL Race

Main bearings - ACL Race

Oil Pump? - Rebuilt with Reimax Gears?

Water pump

timing kit

Full gasket

Head gasket - Cometic

Valve springs

Valves? Pending on condition

Radiator hose kit

Head studs - ARP

Main studs - ARP

Cylinder head reharden – Might need a new block if warped

Crankshaft ground & balanced

All work invloded in block prep including:

-check block for warpage, damage and softness

-bore and hone .020" (.5mm) oversize (pending block condition)

-line bore main tunnel and re-square deck face

-grind/balance crankshaft

-blue print engine

-full recondition of cylinder head (with porting)

Other bits and pieces:

Coil packs

NPC clutch

Diff Nismo/Kaaz 1.5 way

Custom/Brae/6boost Manifold

Oil cooler

VIV

Roadworthy

Any feed back would be great!

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So Frank has some work ahead of him then!

Sounds good Tony, should be bloody good fun to thrash around the track. You can't beat being able to drive your car to the track, thrash it then drive it home again!

The RB30 wasn't tempting enough for you???

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interestadestarating.

Need some work to keep up with your cheater Evo at the track :P

So Frank has some work ahead of him then!

Sounds good Tony, should be bloody good fun to thrash around the track. You can't beat being able to drive your car to the track, thrash it then drive it home again!

The RB30 wasn't tempting enough for you???

Maybe not Frank but the other guy who builds engines lol

RB30 crosses in and out of my mind, don't want to over-complicate the build. But if we find out the block is farked then it might be an option. Not sure yet :/

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Need some work to keep up with your cheater Evo at the track :P

Maybe not Frank but the other guy who actually builds engines lol

RB30 crosses in and out of my mind, don't want to over-complicate the build. But if we find out the block is farked then it might be an option. Not sure yet :/

you said there was water pissing out the back of the block lol. chances are block is f**ked. 26/30 do it..

and cheater evo? lol im the spinner. i wish i had more money lol

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dont be a homo like me, go RB25/30 with a blocked BOV HABOUBZZZ

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you said there was water pissing out the back of the block lol. chances are block is f**ked. 26/30 do it..

and cheater evo? lol im the spinner. i wish i had more money lol

dont be a homo like me, go RB25/30 with a blocked BOV HABOUBZZZ

Haha if anything would be a neo 25/30. Neo head is still good. Has solid lifters like the rb26 head but has vct in the head as well

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Haha maybe moh

Progress from today:

Pulled out turbo, dump, manifold and rocker covers
856726-603545672993129-1433607187-o-603545672993129.jpg

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Why bother doing that Tony? Why not just pull the engine out, makes shit like that so much easier.

With the amount of heat that has been in the engine the bottom end will most likely be rooted. Extreme heat shrinks pistons usually. It would be shattering to fix up the top end, bolt it back together only to find death rattle from major piston slap.

Just saying..... You might have another plan in mind!

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yeah just stick a s/h motor in it and get back out there...save the cash for blow and hookers...\

btw I know where theres S/h motor if your looking ;)

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yeah just stick a s/h motor in it and get back out there...save the cash for blow and hookers...\

btw I know where theres S/h motor if your looking ;)

What he said.

And Toby, you need to update your profile ;)

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Why bother doing that Tony? Why not just pull the engine out, makes shit like that so much easier.

With the amount of heat that has been in the engine the bottom end will most likely be rooted. Extreme heat shrinks pistons usually. It would be shattering to fix up the top end, bolt it back together only to find death rattle from major piston slap.

Just saying..... You might have another plan in mind!

We are rebuilding the whole engine, the head and the bottom end.

Most of the stuff I've taken off will need to be taken off in any case, i.e. manifold, turbo's etc.

I'm just taking the head off first to have a quick looksie at the damage done, out of curiousity. Won't take that much extra time

yeah just stick a s/h motor in it and get back out there...save the cash for blow and hookers...\

btw I know where theres S/h motor if your looking ;)

Going overseas soon, so will be away for over a month, so the extra time it takes for when it gets sent away for rebuild won't add that much extra time.

There may be a chance I'll need a new block, out of curiosity is it a neo? If so PM me details brah

What he said.

And Toby, you need to update your profile ;)

Haha yeah I need to do that :P

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So Friday night with SAU VIC members Michael and Justin we decided why not take the engine out. A few hours later and the engine is out sorcerer.gif
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So as suspected the head was fubared. Pulled the head apart as I was just curious the extent of damage that was done whilst my car was stolen:

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Oh well, time to move on, so last night acquired another Neo motor 100,000 kms. Just came up for sale, it was as if it was meant to be:

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Will try and strip down this motor this week

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Just strap the NEO in and boost on ;) Tough engines (Well unless some moron steals it and runs it on water fuel lol)..... Will be good to see another 34 built tough though! Love it!

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