Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr V-Spec Build


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, thought id put together a bit of a build diary to keep track of the build. its something i didn't do with my other cars and i regret it now as i have no pics or a log of how they come together.

On that note, just a bit of my car history.

my first build was a 1989 nissan S13 silvia. the car started out life as a completely standard down to the factory wheels and airbox ca18det auto. by the time i come to sell it, it was rb25det powered, garrett gt3076r, externally gated, sub zero plenum, and all the other usual bolt ons making 277rwkw.

next was a 2006 bionic blue xr6 turbo ute. again it went from a stock vehicle to 382rwkw wearing a host of process west gear, external gate and so on.

during my time owning the ute i also had the dis-pleasure of owning a 1993 r32 gtr. unfortunately when i purchased the car it was to far gone to be recovered and i sold it at a loss.

somewhere amongst those cars i also owned another sr20det silvia and a d40 navara work car.

this brings me to now, and as of late 2012 i become the owner of a 2000 R34 GTR V-Spec.

this is me picking up the car, such a happy day

post-14389-0-77623100-1363613933_thumb.jpg

when i got back home i threw it on a local dyno to check it all out

post-14389-0-01763200-1363613984_thumb.jpg

couple of shots from a bit of a photo shoot

post-14389-0-68204200-1363614061_thumb.jpgpost-14389-0-75978900-1363614140_thumb.jpg

and now the fun starts

Adam

post-14389-0-39267400-1363614173_thumb.jpg

post-14389-0-32055900-1363614238_thumb.jpg

post-14389-0-42817700-1363614255_thumb.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So to add to the already fitted vi-pec ecu, mac valve boost controller, twin 3 to 3.5" exhaust, turbosmart fuel reg and tuned by godzilla motorsport...

Garrett -5 turbos

post-14389-0-64763400-1363688732_thumb.jpg

Hpi 3" dump pipes

post-14389-0-12453900-1363688786_thumb.jpg

I also grabbed a set of manifolds that are now in the more than capable hands of pro fabrication getting ported

post-14389-0-25677900-1363689929_thumb.jpeg

Edited by drag-on silvia
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
    • Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.  Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful  
    • Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?
×
×
  • Create New...