Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 Neo Turbo

Car wont start now unless I give it a small bit of 'Start ya Bastard' then it fires 1st go and idles fine.

It has been taking longer and longer to start over the last month and today it wouldnt start at all without some help. Car was having this problem before, but I have just changed, turbo, injectors, ECU, coilpacks x2.

I do get code 21, ignition, but that was when I had a missfire. I changed coilpacks and it now runs fine when started. I haven't rechecked to see if Im still getting code 21.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425625-r34-hard-to-startnot-starting/
Share on other sites

Have you checked to see if you have any new codes? Link to codes

Just on the issue of hard starting

- Plugs fouled or incorrect gap

- Battery - Cranking power (no dead cells)

When you were changing the turbo, injectors and coilpacks - did you move/unplug the TPS, TCS etcetera ... have you reset the ECU since then and checked for new codes.

Maybe the quickest way to identify your issue/s.

So bit of an update,

Changed spark plugs, no change.

Showing Code 55 (no faults)

I can restart the car if I have had it running within 30 seconds otherwise I have to give it another spray of start ya bastard.

Im starting to thing vacuum leak. I say this because if I give it a rev it drops to 500rpm after and then goes back to idle at 1000rpm. It doesnt catch the revs on the way back down, if that makes any sense.

I had this once, after doing pretty much everything in this thread, and it turns out that it was caused by the ECU not giving any timing when starting the car.. even though once started it would run fine...

I had this once, after doing pretty much everything in this thread, and it turns out that it was caused by the ECU not giving any timing when starting the car.. even though once started it would run fine...

Ive got a spare ECU ill change it and try again but I have just replaced the ECU. Had the problem before and after. Ill give the CAS a swap and AFM and after that im offically out of ideas.

My ECU was fixed by the tuner who was like "uh oops" but there were plenty other issues at the time. ECU has since been changed and this was quite some time ago. I do recall the problem quite annoying at the time!

In my case it was a piggyback ECU sitting ontop of a normal ECU. You didnt mention what ECU you changed but I'd imagine no stock ecu would ever have a problem like this..

Checked all vac lines? Even under the charcoal canister, sometimes the vac hose coming out the bottom comes off. I had this happen on my 34. You can't see that its come off unless you specifically feel the underside of the canister.

Edited by RB25DETC33
  • 2 weeks later...

So problem solved thanks to Jaustech.

The ECU gets start signal, and it has an inline fuse. The fuse had gone. Im not sure what the ECU does when it gets a start signal, possibly a bit more fuel to help kick it over im not sure.

To diagnose this you need to print off an ECU pinout diagram, find the 1 relating to starting and check to see if its getting a signal when cracking.

Now im not sure if the fuse is away from the normal fuse panels (drivers side engine bay/Drivers foot well) or not, but apparently that was the issue and it start like a dream now and runs great.

Moral of the story, check your fuses and if they are all good. Get the pinout for the ECU, find 1 relating to start signal, test.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What is the current snail?
    • Never an issue with boost control. No weird boost issues pre throttle at partial throttle like you're suggesting. It worked.   As for all the turbo damage claims, they all were started by aftermarket BOV companies. At least turbo timer companies had SOME truth about them, except people failed to realise that except for in extreme circumstances, that small amount of driving you do to park/ through pit lane etc, is enough to not have a need for a turbo timer.
    • I tell people all the time this stuff runs on a 2 MHz 8-bit MCU. The math is a bit arcane, they do a lot to get around their limited resolution and so on but it works great as-shipped. So if an 80 to 160 MHz modern 32-bit MCU can't make it work you've really screwed something up badly. Your average graphing calculator is faster these days, god forbid we start talking about what's hiding in vapes or some stupid internet-connected "smart appliance".  I suspect the lore about off-throttle surge damaging turbos must be very, very old if it was ever true. I still don't think off throttle surge is good for turbos because you're rapidly having air going in and out of the turbo on top of rapid loss in shaft speed which presumably does impart some kind of unusual load on the rotating assembly. As for the recirculating valve, I believe Nissan actually in a press slide deck of some kind explained for the RZ34 they found it improved response. Prior to that they kept the throttle cracked open instead which causes rev hang and because the throttle/engine is a substantial restriction a ton of the energy in the air stream is lost just to pumping past it. Recirculating helps reduce energy loss by bringing the intake side of the compressor up in pressure so it's not working as hard to pull air in. In DCT cars where they can slam gears I believe Porsche hangs the throttle wide open with no fuel injection to keep turbo RPMs as high as possible during the shift. As for running post-throttle boost source, I would be concerned that at partial throttle on boost you would have driveability issues. It would be constantly trying to run crazy amounts of boost before the throttle to compensate for the throttling effect. Maybe with a much more sophisticated boost control setup you could activate a solenoid that goes from a conventional 3-port setup to something that allows the wastegates to see full vacuum in that specific case? 
    • Did you clean everything out? Take all intercooler piping off, empty the intercooler of oil, clean the exhaust out, etc? Intercoolers make great catch cans... Which makes them less useful for intercooling... But very worth cleaning out, along with all adjoining piping.
    • Update Got turbo back from hypergear, installed everything etc. Bled coolant, wasn't smoking so I thought beauty she's sorted now. Went on a drive, car up to temp, let it idle for about 15 seconds, gave it some gas...nice puff of smoke again. Fml No doubt my turbo was pretty worn anyway but nonetheless frustrating that the problem persists.
×
×
  • Create New...