Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

IMG_8083.JPG.c76be5ae43e06c203e255ca2095f45ad.JPG

Dyno of my old HTA GT3586R 0.85 set-up, to save on searching through the RB30 dyno results thread.


Good stuff, I had 500kw as a target but I'm not fixated on it. It looks quite responsive too. Was that turbo maxed out?



Looks a little laggier than I expected but I bet it felt a shitload faster in the real world when under load (dyno doesn't give real world load experience)


It produced enough torque to start spinning the 265 A050s at about 2500rpm. It was very responsive on the road.
  • Like 1

 

Good stuff, I had 500kw as a target but I'm not fixated on it. It looks quite responsive too. Was that turbo maxed out?

 

The 0.85 rear housing was maxed out. Probably a bit more in it with the larger 1.03, 1.06 rear - with the obvious trade off in response.

 

Response was very impressive.

 

325Nm at 2800

600ish at 3500

850ish at 4200

 

Genuine torque figures not derived torque.


 
Genuine torque figures not derived torque.

Why don't you like derived torque?
Have you read this http://www.mainlineauto.com.au/images/downloads/DYNO_TORQUE_FIGURES_-_THE_TRUTH.pdf
On my dyno I find derived torque gives me a much more comparable readings between setups.

I don't dislike derived torque as such. My comment was aimed at clearing up any potential confusion from people seeing the torque figures I stated and thinking they're not very impressive for the set-up (RB30 HTA GT3586 etc)

 

The dyno I use gives torque figures that compare to the original torque ratings from factory. So 295Nm from a standard R33 GTS25t vs 860Nm from my RB30DET vs. 628Nm from the new HSV GTS-R W1

 

My old built RB25DET produced 366kW at the wheels on a Mainline dyno and 1023Nm, which doesn't relate to the original factory figure of 295Nm in any way, shape or form. Clearly it was not making 1023Nm vs. 295Nm of the standard engine. It probably had about 550-600Nm.

Obviously if one sticks to the same dyno, Mainline in this case, then at least each subsequent dyno run after the baseline is directly comparable and as long as the torque figure increases across the bulk of the useable RPM range all is good.

 

Yes I have read the Mainline dyno article.

 

 

That's pretty much what I was questioning as Derived torque on mine is the one that generally gives the most realistic and lowest numbers. Just loaded a run up now, 165rwkw rb25 making 256nm derived torque, 418nm torque and 3842 motive force with derived torque being the only one based of engine speed instead of roller speed.

The interesting thing is that neither of those torque figures seem to match the factory quoted peak torque figure of 295Nm + a modest increase given the obvious increase in power above standard.

A standard R33 GTS25t 5sp manual RB25DET produces say roughly 130-140ish kW at the wheels on a roller dyno, based on my experience. So that's a mild increase of 25-35kW. The 256Nm reading is well down on the factory claim and even more so for a 25-35kW increase. The opposite seems likely with the 418Nm figure. It is quite high at 123Nm increase, which doesn't seem to correlate with the mild 25-35kW increase. In short, neither torque reading seems to line up with a mildly modified RB25DET.

 

Then again, perhaps a 25-35kW gain does correlate to a 123Nm gain. I know my Golf GTI Pirelli produced 212kW at the wheels and 422Nm on a Mainline roller dyno. The quoted power/torque for APR Stage 2+ was 250kW and about 450Nm. Pretty close to the figures recorded on the dyno when taking drive train loss into account.

 

I guess at the end of the day the actual figure is less important than the before and after results.

 

 

 

 

 

You've got to take torque figures from a dyno with a grain of salt (when they are unrealistically high 300rwkw and 1000nm, yeah nah). Hub dynos seem to be fairly accurate with torque readings though.The method i use to check an engines real torque output from a dyno graph is:

Convert the figures to hp and foot pounds, power and torque will then be equal at exactly 5252 rpm. I then use the shape of the torque curve on the graph to determine where max torque is and then i can estimate up or down based on which way the curve goes, then convert back from ft-lbs to nm. For example, if an engine makes 350hp at 5252rpm, then it makes 350 ft-lbs at 5252 also. If peak torque was at 4900rpm, you estimate by how much higher the line is on the graph and you may come to a figure of say 370 ft-lbs. Convert that to nm and there is your real figure. Obviously you wont get an exact number but will be pretty damn close to the real figure. You also need the graph you're working from to be in rpm, for this reason it shits me when graphs are in road speed.

  • Like 1

Realistically if there is no accurate RPM configuration set up on the dyno software then there is no reasonable way of establishing a torque figure which is representative of what the engine is actually making - the torque that the dyno reads, particularly a rolling road dyno... has everything to do with wheel vs roller speed and then is further affected by transmission gearing.  The only way you can scale it sensibly really is by using the final power figures and calculating torque from the actual engine rpm.

That is exactly what derived rpm on a mainline dyno does and what it was designed for . And it's the only one that crossed hp and lbft at 5252, yet to be accurate needs either rpm pickup, ecu or obd comms enabled to get a good rpm signal. There derived rpm option is a joke for torque readings as to many factors induce slip

  • 4 weeks later...
On 5/18/2017 at 4:45 PM, LaurelPWR said:

Did you wind it up man? Got a dyno for the full balls run?

Hey mate sorry dont come in here much anymore, haven't done anything with the car yet still sitting here had a few things come up, had a new born last week so sort of on the back burner atm

  • 3 weeks later...

My whole FP HTA setup is up for sale! Figured here was probably a good spot to mention it as all the results and info can be found on Page 1.

Basically everything on the hotside i used to make the 390kw is included as i have upgraded the lot.

Turbo, manifold, gate. dump, fittings and lines, full exhaust, intake pipe and filter, BOV and cooler pipe etc etc

Turbo has just had new bearings and seals so is AS NEW, just had $680 spent on it (Was quoted $880 through GCG for the same repair).

Whole setup is around $3k which is cheap for what you get! PM me if interested!

  • 2 years later...
12 hours ago, LaurelPWR said:

Specs on your setup man?

im going to do a turbo 6Ltre

so going to eventually sell my Rb25 stuff. just have to get around to it

Link G4 ecu, 6boost top mount, hta3076r, 1000cc id injectors, plazamanan Plenum, yellow jacket coils, areo flow fuel rail, trial wastegate, HKS bov, 25 engine and box,  etc etc

Roughly know what most of the other things go for, unsure on the turbo

On 10/06/2020 at 9:29 AM, Adz2332 said:

im going to do a turbo 6Ltre

so going to eventually sell my Rb25 stuff. just have to get around to it

Link G4 ecu, 6boost top mount, hta3076r, 1000cc id injectors, plazamanan Plenum, yellow jacket coils, areo flow fuel rail, trial wastegate, HKS bov, 25 engine and box,  etc etc

Roughly know what most of the other things go for, unsure on the turbo

Have you got a graph for the hta3076 on the RB25? Very interested to see as I have one going on an RB25 at the moment but I have a true twin scroll twin gate setup and oversized itb’s etc so a bit different...

670DC9F5-C13E-468A-A97C-4B541BCA612A.jpeg

1 hour ago, LaurelPWR said:

Have you got a graph for the hta3076 on the RB25? Very interested to see as I have one going on an RB25 at the moment but I have a true twin scroll twin gate setup and oversized itb’s etc so a bit different...

670DC9F5-C13E-468A-A97C-4B541BCA612A.jpeg

So to give you a left of centre answer to this question.... I have driven a customers FP red (76mm compressor) journal bearing Evo 8 with a stock block which made 360kwatw rolling the power on in 2nd gear she was very urgent by around 3700/3800 rpm and obviously less and less in 3rd and 4th gear. 

So I think you're going to be very much the same if you have VCT etc as a 4G is probably similar/better than RB's for bringing turbos on song. 

  • Like 1
On 12/06/2020 at 7:07 PM, Mick_o said:

So to give you a left of centre answer to this question.... I have driven a customers FP red (76mm compressor) journal bearing Evo 8 with a stock block which made 360kwatw rolling the power on in 2nd gear she was very urgent by around 3700/3800 rpm and obviously less and less in 3rd and 4th gear. 

So I think you're going to be very much the same if you have VCT etc as a 4G is probably similar/better than RB's for bringing turbos on song. 

For sure man, I’ve extensively read and researched the Evo forums and practically everywhere hta30 over the years it’s taken me to get my setup slowly together hahah so yeah I’m expecting something very responsive. I’m hoping to get close to 550whp with 30psi and full boost at or before 4krpm as I have a few other supporting mods that are overkill for a turbo this size to help me get there.

Edited by LaurelPWR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...