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awsam

V36 Rev Probs, Firmware Update Anyone?

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* I meant Spark Plugs in above post.

Since the transmission fluid flush. I have been trying to see if the symptom occurs when in Neutral. I suspected that it wouldn't, but amazingly sometimes it does happen at the 1000rpm mark, but faintly. Does anyone else experience this ?

Awsam, Ours are rear wheel drive only. Unless you have the 4WD light come on (along with the other lights) in the dash when the start button is pressed

Has anyone tried checking/changing their spark plugs. They apparently die at around 100K km.

Also read: http://forums.nicoclub.com/strange-hesitation-issue-t527428.html

SteveTheTech is pointing to the timing covers.

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Ignore those then..

I haven't checked/tried, I'm unsure of what km's my car has legitimately done. I've been meaning to get it back to nissan, that's probably a job for them.

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* I meant Spark Plugs in above post.

Since the transmission fluid flush. I have been trying to see if the symptom occurs when in Neutral. I suspected that it wouldn't, but amazingly sometimes it does happen at the 1000rpm mark, but faintly. Does anyone else experience this ?

Awsam, Ours are rear wheel drive only. Unless you have the 4WD light come on (along with the other lights) in the dash when the start button is pressed

Has anyone tried checking/changing their spark plugs. They apparently die at around 100K km.

Also read: http://forums.nicoclub.com/strange-hesitation-issue-t527428.html

SteveTheTech is pointing to the timing covers.

Nissan says that the OEM spark plugs will last 100k miles...but I suggest changing that earlier. I just ordered a set of NGK Iridium with heat rating 8 (one step up from stock 7). I got the NIsmo ones.

You could just get the normal Iridium ones at stock heat rating, shouldnt cost too much.

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I questioned Nissan about cam sens like in that link and they assured me it was not the issue. If I could get them for only $50 like they said in the link then i'd just swap them np, alas it's not that cheap.

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Hi Guys, I have a V36 sedan and had a problem especially in the mornings when I first start the car. When taking off it stutters at low rpm. I used injector cleaner & filled up at a new petrol station. That seemed to work for a while, then same thing started again. I removed my air filters

& they were filthy. I replaced both with K&N filters, ever since the car runs like a dream. Never had a problem since its been 6 months now. It sounds too easy but I'll be starting off with the easy stuff first...Good luck..

post-126910-0-11953100-1383901594_thumb.jpg

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my uprev datalog showed the rev dropped from 710 to 480 then stayed at 560 for 1 sec before it goes back to around 700rpm at stationary.

Oil temp was 98C, Water temp 90C, Intake Temp 62C.

what i noticed was my timing advance was 9 degree than dropped to 0 with the rev then it picked up to 9.

I will check the A/F ratio next time when i do another datalog. I have explained the situation to Uprev usa and they will get back to me in 2 weeks with a ROM file to try.

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Have a look at the AF ratio correction. That's what the O2 sensors are doing to try to keep 14.7.

Also, check the base timing for VQ37s. I know the 35 is 15 degrees. Sounds like it may need a reset too.

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Wonder if the issue is only on the 350GT or do the 250GT and the 370GT s have them as well?

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Hi Guys, I have a V36 sedan and had a problem especially in the mornings when I first start the car. When taking off it stutters at low rpm. I used injector cleaner & filled up at a new petrol station. That seemed to work for a while, then same thing started again. I removed my air filters

& they were filthy. I replaced both with K&N filters, ever since the car runs like a dream. Never had a problem since its been 6 months now. It sounds too easy but I'll be starting off with the easy stuff first...Good luck..

My OEM filters are only a few weeks old. I had the af sensors checked/cleaned with no change.

Your problem sounds a little different to the one I'm describing. Cold the car is fine, hot the car is mostly fine (single stutter on take off). the 10 or so minutes inbetween though repeated single stutter every 0.5sec of 50-70rpm that gets progressively larger. Also taking your foot off the peddle, then re applying creates unexpected jolt of energy during stuttering.

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Taking foot off peddle and reapplying thing....that might be another issue altogether. I believe that is the drive by wire issue. When we step on the accelerator, the ECU tellls the TB to open...when we let it go and reapply, there is a lag between the ECU telling the TB...the closing and opening can create that problem...I don't have that issue that much any more after getting first getting a grounding kit then after that decided for a tune and messing around with the Torque management a bit...no more jerkiness. The early V36 had really sensitive acceleration at certain points. My experience anyway...could be wrong

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Taking foot off peddle and reapplying thing....that might be another issue altogether. I believe that is the drive by wire issue. When we step on the accelerator, the ECU tellls the TB to open...when we let it go and reapply, there is a lag between the ECU telling the TB...the closing and opening can create that problem...I don't have that issue that much any more after getting first getting a grounding kit then after that decided for a tune and messing around with the Torque management a bit...no more jerkiness. The early V36 had really sensitive acceleration at certain points. My experience anyway...could be wrong

Yeh I know the normal boost you get re applying acceleration, times that by 5 but only during the 10 minutes of stutter.

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I wonder if that could be the drive by wire and tb no communicating properly....?

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If the wire between the dbw and ecu had a poor resistance you would know about it, as the ecu would go into limp mode (as it does with any throttle fault.)

Jumping around guessing what it might be isn't going to do anything other than make this thread longer. If you had some means of checking the wideband sensors and found they were lean at that point, you could argue one or more injectors were blocked. But without a reader it makes diagnosis very hard, adding the internet to that makes it near impossible.

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Guys - Major break through. Went back to my car dealer as Nissan was hesitant in diagnosing the car. They have very little knowledge about cars in my opinion. If the service manual doesn't state it, they don't know about it. No thinking out of the box.

Anyway, enough of my rants. At the dealer's, we pulled out the Exhaust valve timing control magnet retarder' harness connectors - there are 2 right in the front of the engine. They are conencted to blue plastic holders. We then started the car with the plugs pull out. It ,runs a dream, swapped both front the covers with a 370GT but problem persists with the connectors re-plugged in. When connectors removed, problem vanishes again. Called a different Nissan branch, they said this will be a timing issue, they will remove timing chain and check for any expansion etc and redo timing - didn't say what. Will send to Nissan next Tuesday.

See illustration of plugs here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxy5VF8M4iZ7X3ZiRDUtR2lrNXc/edit?usp=sharing

So if you want to confirm if your problem is the same, unplug the connectors and check. But please remember - this is at your own risk.

Cheers guys, will be very interested to hear how it went your end.

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I did read on gdriver that the timing cover or something there abouts was a major problem in both 35's and 37's.

How long did you test drive with them unplugged for?

Is there great risk in damage from the timing being out?

Was this specifically for the single hicup from stopped start, or did you find it stopped the 50-70rpm drop?

Edited by awsam

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My cars symptoms - Does the hiccup at 1000+ rpm and when cruising and lightly accelerating.

The test I did to verify that the problem was gone after removing the connectors. Shift to Drive (D) with brake pedal pressed. Then with brake pedal pressed, accelerate engine slightly pass the 1000rpm mark. This test has become my standard test for this problem.

Also I don't think there should be great risk with the timing, but will update when Nissan tells me more.

Edited by Elcid

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The covers are only the magnet, not the actuator which is behind it. Nissan will want to rebuild the timing chain and tensioner assemblies and replace the cam actuators, this will cost 5-6k or more.

I have found a way to replace the actuators in the VQ25/VQ30 without removal of the engine, but I doubt any mechanic would try such a complex task. Your engine has intake and exhaust actuators which doubles the chances of an issue.

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Also I don't think there should be great risk with the timing, but will update when Nissan tells me more.

It is fine to drop the connector and drive the car, it will just stop the cams from advancing/retarding and throw an error code.

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The covers are only the magnet, not the actuator which is behind it. Nissan will want to rebuild the timing chain and tensioner assemblies and replace the cam actuators, this will cost 5-6k or more.

I have found a way to replace the actuators in the VQ25/VQ30 without removal of the engine, but I doubt any mechanic would try such a complex task. Your engine has intake and exhaust actuators which doubles the chances of an issue.

Better check the 5yr warranty ...

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