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O2 sensor


JaFF

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I went down to Petroject down in bayswater, picked up a universal 3 wire O2 sensor for $99 brand new. It didn't have the harness on it, but it was a piece of piss to join the wires together, i just chopped the harness off the stock one, twisted it together with the wires off the new o2 sensor and dropped a nice big blob of solder over the wires, taped it up and reconnected. Turned on the car....a strong petrol smell was coming from the back but after it warmed up this went away. Getting MUCH MUCH better petrol economy now, was getting around 200 per tank, i've gone thru about 1/2 tank so far and got 200 already so it seems to be doing the trick. I had a mass idling problem aswell, this has also gone away! However after a hard thrashing it does hunt a bit but i'm guessing this is either a tuning issue or a vacuum leak. I'd recommend everyone with a skyline thats done over 40 thou km's to change the o2 sensor because they are a consumable part that does wear out and my 1994 33 gts-t still had the original O2 sensor in it! to think of all the months of driving it around when i could have drove the same amount of km's and only spent half as much on petrol!

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has anyone done a resistance check on the new o2 sensor?

I have a r31 '89 Ti and a '90 R32 gts4 (RB20DET) and they both have red/white/black wires, the r31 workshop (gregories) manual says on pg 94 to :

'measure the resistance between the two outer terminals of the oxygen sensor connector. The resistance should be 5 - 6 ohms. Renew the oxygen sensor if the ohmmeter indicates a malfunction.'

does anyone know the resistance of a new o2 sensor? or know the specs from the RB20DET workshop manual??

its much easier to disconnect the plug and take a reading so if anyone has the info that would be great.

At the moment my r31 gets ok economy and the reading is just on 6 ohms but my

R32 is not so hot at the moment, its reading is 6.9 ohms - dont know if its stuffed (going by 31 manual) or maybe the R32 has a different resistance range.

Stephen

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a lot of soot is probably a gutted cat, as its pollution coming out and staining or marking the rear bar. running very rich can also do this, which is caused by a dead 02 sensor

so in answer to your question, yes it can be

i had a dead o2 sensor, bad fuel economy but no soot on the rear bar on a dyno run i would get some black smoke occasionally but thats cos its at full or wide throttle and its always rich then

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I just ordered an NGK one for $99. Also bought a Narva 3 wire connector for $2 to save pissing around soldering etc.

They had another brand, and both EA Falcon and Z32 (part no's match for the universal) were $180!! Should be in around 1 hour... see how I go... its a bitch to get the old one off!! Had a quick go before and it was super tight.. have to find a decent tool that will fit in the limited space.

dave.

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  • 3 weeks later...
R33 see the pic.

have you replaced yours?

if so just run out and tell me the order they line up in the connector.

it says three different colours here also. http://www.powerlink.co.nz/~graeme/faq/

so would I be safe to assume the white is the output on the nissan plug, and black on the falcon. and the other two are just power and earth for the heater??

Thus  

Nissan                  Falcon

White    --------->  Black

Red     ----------->White

Black  ---------->   White

I rekon you are right Mud - Just changing over my o2 sensor now.. measured with a multimeter and there is a circuit between the white and white on the Ford one, and Red and black on the Nissan one.

Lets see how it goes :rofl:

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Hey all,

Changed the O2 Sensor on my R33 on the weekend. Picked up from BURSON's the NGK/TGK branded sensor for the EL falcon. Retail price on that is $83..

So on the weekend I put the car up on the ramps, thinking I should have this done in about 30 min. I get underneath to locate the sensor, found it no problems. Managed to get a spanner onto the 02 sensor and loosen it, however how are you supposted to unplug it? I had to undo the bracket that it was attached to (maybe acting like a heat shield for the plug as well?) to get it off. I mangled it by bending it trying to figure out if I could just unplug it, but found out I couldnt. :cheers:

Finding out my o2 sensor has 3 wires, a Red, White, and Black - SAU to the rescue to note that the White is the sensor wire, and the red and black are the heater circuit wires (Note: EL Sensor has 2 White and one Black wire). A multimeter circuit test verified this.

Heat up the soldering iron, get out the wire stripper, heat shrink and im ready to join the wires. However, what the hell? The wires on the original o2 sensor plug, whats the deal here? The solder wont stick, and when I try to twist the strands together, they dont twist! They spring out! Seems some white dust comes off the wire as well. Strange wire, I don't think it is copper - anyone know what it is?

Come to the conclusion to join them, crimps are required. Fumble around trying to find 3 male and 3 female crimps. This was a pain in the butt - I put some heat shrink over the entire join to try and protect it and the heat from shirinking it (i suspect) one wire comes out of the joint. DAMN! this reminds me why I hate crimps and prefer to do solder joins!

At least an hour and a half has passed by this stage.. Fumbling around in the dark and the cold I get the sensor back on, take her off the ramps, reset the ECU (disconnect battery) and hope it all works.

I have just done 100KM, and the needle is at the 3/4 mark. I think this is where it was before, however I will fill up in the next few days and report back if I have solved my fuel guzzling issues or if it was a waste of time (and effort)

:wassup:

Cheers

chicane

:burnout: :burnout:

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  • 6 months later...

Thanks for bumping it,

I have not read this thread before, and has now prompted me to look at replacing my o2 sensor, as my car does run rich.

My question is tho, has anyone been told that using the EL falcon o2 sensor could harm your car by sending incorrect signals to the ECU? or that the OZA23-D2 o2 sensor is not a good as the original?

I mean it is designed for a different car so I was just thinking that the signal that is being sent to the ECU would be different. I would rather spend the money and get an original if it is better, but if the EL falcon o2 sensor does no different to the original, I might as well keep my extra 80-100 bucks for something else.

Thanks all

BOOMAU

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the el falcon oxygen sensor is just a bosch / noname brand oxygen sensor its used in a few cars. its much easier to go into repco/autobarn and go i need an oxygen sensor for an el falcon. if you ask for an oxygen sensor for a 1997 r33 skyline, they go huh a what? an r31? a vl skyline? and they never end up finding the part, its just much easier. the same part would be used in a few cars.

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there is only one. its located on the exhaust pipe

if you pop your bonnet, facing front onwards, look towards the back right, youll see the turbo heat shield. just behind that is a large pipe going downwards (this is your exhaust) about 1/4 way down the pipe is a piston looking thing with wires coming out, thats your o2 sensor

Incorrect, there are actually two. One is located on the turbo dump pipe and the other is located behind the catalytic converter. And yes, that is an o2 sensor.

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If you have a look in any Service manual the one at the rear of the Cat are called Exhaust heat Sensors :rofl: and yes it runs of the exhaust gas heat. when air and fuel are mixed at different ratios the exhaust heat changes when you start to run lean the light on the dash (Exhaust heat temp light) comes on.

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R31Heaven,

When my car runs lean (14.1 AFR) with rb30det and stock ecu the cat light doesn't come on. :rofl:

The usual method for determining the condition of the catalyst is to

install a second oxygen sensor after the catalyst and compare its output to

the output of the upstream sensor. The upstream O2 gives the switching

output described above. Without getting into the details of catalyst

operation, I'll just say that the downstream sensor behaves quite

differently. When catalyst efficiency is high, the downstream sensor will

output a fairly steady voltage, roughly midway between 0 and 1 volt. As

catalyst efficiency decreases, the downstream sensor will begin to show

signs of the switching behavior of the upstream sensor. If you took the

catalyst out (0% efficiency), the downstream and upstream sensors would

read the same.

Here we go ppls.

http://staff.connect.com.au/lheather/318ti...3/msg00918.html

I guess the manuals are calling it a heat sensor to make it easy for people to get their head around. Even though the above is very simple and easy to understand its amazing how many people will finish reading the paragraph and say 'and that means what exactly?'

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R31 heaven is correct.......The second sensor on the exhaust IS a temperature sender ONLY.....take it out and have a look.....the reason you cant solder to the original wires on your car is because its stainless steel wire.....these sensors work on GTR's aswell

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R31 heaven is correct.......The second sensor on the exhaust IS a temperature sender ONLY.....take it out and have a look.....the reason you cant solder to the original wires on your car is because its stainless steel wire.....these sensors work on GTR's aswell

Granted that it measures heat only, which is common knowledge, it IS an oxygen sensor.

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nope sorry i tend to disagree.....ITS A PYROMETER!!!!!It has no Flutes in it for the burnt mixture to enter the sensor....This sensor cannot measure oxygen/fuel ratio.......what they are saying is to position another actual oxygen sensor behind the cat (As a test procedure...not the factory does put one there) and compare the two readings.....

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