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luke gtr

Spacers? You Bet!

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ok, wanted to finish the car and drive it a little before I threw this up.

have been driving for 1700kms now, with no real adverse affects**

so, welcome all to my 30mm subframe drop thread.

any questions you have, throw them in here, and I will try and answer as quickly and honestly as possible.

please keep in mind, I doubt this is legal.

these havnt been "engineered" yet.

I will try one day, but havnt had the time/money associated to do so.

I will try and include any info I can that helped/hindered myself when doing this.

the spacers I used were made by a race/rally car engineer, and calculated that the stud the mount to would snap before the shank nut.

so, here we go....

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1st, why did I want to space?

easy, I didn't want to cut my bonnet.

for that one, simple reason I undertook this task.

now, as many know, you don't have to cut bonnets in a 33/34, but 32s, its pretty much the only option.

some other advantages:

-if done right, exhaust should line up to near factory*.

-turbo to guard pipe should line up*.

-guard to plenum should line up*.

-looks more factory(to a degree), as the motor is still roughly the same spacing from and strut bars.

some disadvantages:

-cooling fan no longer lines up.

-slight slope to motor.

-cant lower car**.

*should has been used, as I went with a single turbo conversion, so am unsure of pipework.

I also changed to a Greddy plenum ive had on the shelf for years, waiting for the build.

**cant/shouldn't lower the car more, as due to the engine being lower, the cvs are at a lower angle already.

so, in essence, dropping the subframe 30mm, is like lowering the car the same amount.

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2nd, why not lower the engine on the mounts and run no cam cover, or cut bonnet bracing?

I have lowered the engine in the mounts(die grinded mount holes).

I wanted the cam cover for the fact it keeps debris out, and less attention.

And as stated, I DIDNT want to cut the bonnet in any way.

everything I have done can be reversed.

all can be put back to standard.

that's the way I wanted it.

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now, for process and pics.

first, the spacers themselves...

the spacer was made in 3 parts, 20mm, 5mm, 5mm totalling 30mm all up.

the reason for this was so, if the whole 30 was not needed, the height could be adjusted.

height can be 30, 25, 20, 10 and 5mm(just swapping the pieces around.

the top spacer is actually the washer for the nut.

5OzMl0K.jpg

a shank style nut was used so it would have the greatest thread contact area, whilst also locating the spacers themselves.

ointQrz.jpg

the extra height on the nut is just under the thickness of the subframe itself.

g3c6i39.jpg

and all done in the box when picked up.

5gppX6Y.jpg

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Lower the engine? The spacer plate to convert the 2wd block to 4wd already brings the sump a CM closer to the subframe stuffing up that idea.

I think the way you did it is the best way, the more i think about it the more logical it becomes.

The best part is if running a heavy clutch, you can still use the factory booster, im not a big fan of building the left leg, prefer to build the center one instead. :P

Come on man, get some pics happening. :)

Edit, you just put them up as i posted. LOL

Edited by GTRPSI

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ok, so, before and after pics of install.

before....

QcKZQMO.jpg

SwySRMc.jpg

3tsJo0R.jpg

mMAKeow.jpg

BIiVciH.jpg

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Is this required when putting a 30 in a 32 gts-t or is it a GTR only thing?

gtst too.

its because of the slope of the 32 bonnets.

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during the install, had to lower the whole subframe evenly.

then, enlarge the holes for the shank nut.

I used a stepped drill bit.

worked very well to get to thhe size needed.

also went a little oversize as the original holes were bigger, and allowed for any differences.

DjpAUo5.jpg

r2MwSWI.jpg

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ok, so now installed.

keep in mind, the factory uses pinch nuts to lock them.

USE LOCTITE!!!

you don't want a subframe coming loose.

NGx5ks3.jpg

3wJnKbO.jpg

XZ270cp.jpg

F7paGWx.jpg

also, the steering column required extra length.

this was a temporary solution to push the car in and out.

was thinking about it for use, but the torque put on those bolts would eventually snap them.

PPBLyIa.jpg

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ok, so, now I had to sort the steering problem....

easy :)

another spacer :D

so, had this turned up.

VQwZ2Uf.jpg

but, didn't want it to stand out.

so, can of black spray paint.

hides it nicely...

cpBNfPp.jpg

bSgIOzL.jpg

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ok, this should give a rough idea of how close it sits to the bonnet.

turbo is a china gt42 on 6boost mani that was made for a 26/30 combo.

NTeKSkP.jpg

MLqImRy.jpg

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FINALY......

I do have a driveline vibration.

thoughts were it was from the tailshaft angle.

so, I used spacers and extended bolts to space the gearbox crossmember down, and the centre bearing down.

its only under power.

more noticeable in 3rd.

cant be felt at cruising speeds or loads.

could be in gearbox, as ive got a new gearbox in the car.

could also be tyres, as they literally sat in the one spot for 8 months, ad have flatspotted.

either way, id recommend spacing the gearbox xmember and centre bearing carrier.

also, the lines on the hicas pump/valve will give the 30mm needed.

so will the steer return lines.

as stated, you can no longer use the factory fan.

electric thermo fans will be required.

hope you all enjoyed the read.

again, post any questions, and ill try and answer them.

if in the Sydney area, come to one of the runs and have a look.

thanks for reading.

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Luke that is one filthy engine bay! Get some degreaser on that shit!

Good work though, nice write up and good piccies!

  • Like 1

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Luke that is one filthy engine bay! Get some degreaser on that shit!

Good work though, nice write up and good piccies!

thanks mate.

and why bother cleaning the bay when its going to get dirty again? :P

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Very good thread Luke, great work, should be made a sticky.

There are a few forums on the web that talk about using a single 10mm spacer, but using a 30mm one only leaves the top 8mm higher than factory, more than enough room to close the bonnet and some more for spare.

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Very good thread Luke, great work, should be made a sticky.

There are a few forums on the web that talk about using a single 10mm spacer, but using a 30mm one only leaves the top 8mm higher than factory, more than enough room to close the bonnet and some more for spare.

dont forget I elongated the engine mount holes, so should be same height now.

even with that, and the sump adapter, I have clearance between the sump and X member

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Hmm I will need to do something similar to the Silvia. They are some pretty hardcore looking spacers.

thanks, and good luck.

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thanks, and good luck.

Will the drive shafts actually only be 20mm angle than a 26 because the sump spacer puts them 10mm lower in centre to start with?

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