Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Forgive me for the millionth post but I cant not find the exact answer to my question & I wanna get this right the first time.

My 34 GTT has a manual boost tee (IN - connected to intercooler pipe & OUT - to wastegate actuator). I have a profec B Spec 2 that I bought used so it has the lines off the solenoid already.

(1). From what I gather, am I on the right track in the pic below? [please ignore what I wrote about *figure3* - just found an old thread where GTSBoy explains the consequences of doing this]

photo2-EBC.jpg

(2). For the boost pressure line that comes directly off the back of the Profec unit, where do I connect this? GTSBoy said in a thread that using a tee between the FPR and manifold will increase the risk of screwing things up & therefore using the MAP sensor hose is an alternative. Just curious if I have the correct MAP Sensor pressure hose to tee into..

1911522_10201522087924612_1464874629_o.j

(3). The solenoid that I have isnt specifically labelled as "COM or 'NC/NO. It just has 1,2,3 stamped respectively. Also this EBC was used in an external gate GTR before so it took me a while to figure this out. Can someone confirm if I have the ports labelled properly..

photo4-EBC.jpg

I think thats all the questions I have. Once again, apologise if this thread is repetitive.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439460-profec-b-install-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

If no one has answered this before the weekend is over then I'll post pics when I get back home to my car on Sunday.

It will be one line running to the intercooler nipple and one running to the actuator. The booklet should tell you what part on the boost controller to plug these both into.

Then just run a T piece into that line running off the back of the manifold and put your vac into that and into the profec

Just checked the instructions.

NO port goes to the boost source aka the nipple on your cooler pipe.

COM port goes to your actuator on the turbo.

The other NC port left should be blocked off.

Check this article

Your setup should be like page 5

And instructions on the ports is on page 9

Use the page numbers down the bottom left

http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf

Thanks a lot mate. So its a simple remove and replace (but being very careful which way to place the solenoid.

The vac hose coming from the back of the manifold - are you referring to the MAP sensor one?

Hopefully you can throw some pics on sunday. Thanks again.

There is a nipple on the left hand side of the intake manifold, it already has a hose on it running to a small black box in the top left hand side of the engine bay (if you are standing at the front of the car looking into the engine bay).

Tee it off that line and boost away.

Edited by owen1r

Just checked the instructions.

NO port goes to the boost source aka the nipple on your cooler pipe.

COM port goes to your actuator on the turbo.

The other NC port left should be blocked off.

Check this article

Your setup should be like page 5

And instructions on the ports is on page 9

Use the page numbers down the bottom left

http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf

Are you sure? This is the 3rd port on the solenoid we are talking about, right? All the other diagrams/pics I've seen have left this 3rd port vented to atmo.

Thanks Owen and Daniel for all your help. Cheers.

I can't be 100% if it has to be blocked or not sorry mate. I'm working off my mental pictures haha and they aren't very clear.

I'll let you know Sunday night if no one chimes in and gives the answer.

No problemo mate. Thanks a lot :)

Managed to install the Profec B with the (3rd port vented to atmo)

Now have the issue of massive boost spikes at the high end of rev range. Might get it looked at by a tuner..

Thanks guys once again.

Have a look in the troubleshooting guide which is in the document posted previously, try lowering your start boost.

Put it all the way down to near 0 if you can, if that doesn't make a difference, lower the gain until it no longer exceeds your wanted boost.

Edited by owen1r

Start Boost = 40
Set = 0
Gain = 5% (wouldnt go any lower)

Warning = (9psi)
Limiter = 20%

Used these settings to start tuning and boost spiked to 15psi. Turned the Set up to 10% and it still spiked. Not sure what on earth is going on but I think I might have to get this looked at by a pro. Its a shame really..

Raj send me a PM with your number and i'll send photos of my setup tonight.

Then I'll let you know what my start boost etc is.

It's going to be different for every car

But at least you will get an understanding as to what 20psi settings look like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...