Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need help ppl I own a r32 Gtr post-133383-13950581116708_thumb.jpg

This weekend I have a fresh rebuilt rb26dett going in bit of work -5 turbos injectors ful hks exhaust and dumps n1 pump oil water ect I blow my old one and decided just to buy a nother one then to build, this motor has not been started used or after rebuild the motor had 60xxx on it before the build.

Once the new motors in everything's al done fluids ect am I able to start the car and drive it, or does it hav to have a run in tube before u can drive it and shit.

Advice needed, tips best way to run it in my self with out f@&king anythkng up

Cheers guys

All engines have to be run in to bed the rings in. If you don't do it properly they might never seal correctly.

Google how to run in a new engine, be amazed there's heaps of ways and no one agrees.

are you running stock ECUs? plan on getting a tune?

stock camshafts? stock pistons/compression?

Personally, I would let engine builder start up first time. Could pressure feed oil, start it up and run for 10-20mins to bed cams in (if new). From then, you know it runs, doesnt leak any fluids and won't go clunk 200m down the road. From there, its up to you how you run everything in.

Ye I got the afm's. Stock ecu ATM

The car has made me broke lol :)

Aftermarket ecu wil come in a few week along with a run in tune and after 1000ks or so a power tune.

What I need to know is once the new engine is in can I drive it til I can afford the tune and ecu ( sensibly )

And if anyone knows the best way to for me to run it in in details please.

Stock ECU means you'll have to use stock injectors and stock MAFs, so keep the boost down very low. The injectors will max out at around 280awkw, but it depends on how dirty they are. No idea what boost that would be on -5s, but probably something like 5psi.

There's many threads about how to run in engine here, so search and you will find. From what i remember, use a cheap/basic dino oil and dont baby it. You probably keep the oil for around 1000kms, then change it out to something good - with filter change.

Ye I got the afm's. Stock ecu ATM

The car has made me broke lol :)

LOL! It's the fun of it :laugh:

How much power you aiming for?

Aftermarket ecu wil come in a few week along with a run in tune and after 1000ks or so a power tune.

What I need to know is once the new engine is in can I drive it til I can afford the tune and ecu ( sensibly )

And if anyone knows the best way to for me to run it in in details please.

I probably wouldn't drive it until the ECU is here.

If your not sure how to run it in, just take it to your mechanic, do it once, do it right.

  • Like 1

I probably wouldn't drive it until the ECU is here.

This. Or if you have some way to monitor Air/Fuel ratio. You spend all this money on an engine, the last thing you want to do is damage it. Little things can throw the stock ECU out of whack completely.

as far as run-in goes... I can vouch (but am open to other ideas):

For first start up - Cheap full synthetic oil, magnetic sump plug, new oil filter.

(If with new ECU) Get run-in tune ASAP - car will see boost on the dyno, keep it on the rich side, tuner should keep it running/driving on dyno till you can feel it bed in and AFR is fairly steady/predictable.

0-500kms on street - drive gently-ish, no issues with some boost every so often.

500-1000kms - drop oil, put another fully synthetic, check sump plug for noticeable chunks, new oil filter.

Then final tune.

  • Like 1

Aiming for 300 320awkw il be wrapped with for a few months

Hah! Yeah, when the power addiction kicks in!

What mods have you done to urs...

What power you making?

Full rebuilt, Garrett -7's and just the usual, exhaust, air intake etc.

300+ rwkW's.

My two cents

Penrite run in oil

Run for 20 minutes varying revs around 2k

Dump oil and cut open filter and inspect. If all good put new filter and run in oil for 500kms don't thrash it but don't drive like a grandma.

Dump oil and change filter.

Put into your full syn oil, filter and go nuts.

#@RatR32 - that can be done with the stock ecu and with out a tune?

My mates putting my motor in his a good mechanic, just thought I'd get some advice/options from others with rb26's..

I ownd a s15 project for 6yrs knew the works about them could pull it apart and bak in a day lol

I sold it and got the Gtr not doin my research and bang 2nd drive blew the motor.

Cbf doing the overtime to save for a nother engine :(

Cheers :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...