Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Squeaky Front End! Any Ideas To Fix?


00XAV
 Share

Recommended Posts

Recently got my car lowered by option 1 in Brisbane, I got BC coilovers and had camber arms put in the front, due to the height of the car they removed the ugly as shit front body kit and replaced it with a standard s2 front bar.

Shortly after this was done my car started squeaking when I'd hit bumps or even just joins in the road. It's gotten progressively worse over the last 2 weeks.

I've traced it to the front end of the car after visiting mechanics from ballina to brisbane during my travels.

It's a metal on metal sound and it even happens when I shut the front doors of the car.

Does anyone know what this could be and any potential fixes? I've guessed at the new front bar possibly being loose or scraping against the intercooler piping? Help me please! It's driving me insane and I'm ready to drive the car off a cliff... Thanks in advance!

post-102412-0-64016200-1395815409_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's really hard to diagnose noises over the internet. But I would suggest looking at the coilover and camber arms. Check the lower mount on the coilover has been installed right. I'm not sure on the Stagea's but on my 33 there is a larger spacing on one side of the mount then the other so it can only go on one way or the coilover may rub.

What sort of mounts/joints do the camber arms have?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks man for the advice, I'm not 100% sure on the camber arms type, but that was one of the things I believed it could be. It's an AWD and the coils were BC gold's, not sure if that can help clear it up? Do you know if it's an expensive fix if it is that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be many things. If the coilovers were removed, check whether there is a gasket between the strut mount and the body of the vehicle. Check the sway bar which can make some awful noises if it isn't lubricated.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok thanks heaps man, do I just use wd40 or that lithium shit for lubrication? I'll give that a shot, I've recently tried shaking the front bar and it seems to be more or less coming from there, however the away bars are original and the car is just over 90000kms so that's possibly the problem, is it expensive or easy to do? I've just moved to an apartment in briz and they go ape shit about anyone doing car stuff in the garage so I haven't been able to properly look

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used boat grease to lubricate the sway bar mounts as best as I could. With the bar disconnected from either wheel, you can move it back and forth allowing you to work some grease in. Boat grease is sticky and is good for exposed areas.

Mind you, grease isn't good for rubber, but on old components I don't think it really matters anyways. Having a silent car is much more of a concern to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My aftermarket camber arms squeeked after the car was sitting idle for 6months at the workshop when the engine was slowly rebuilt

Never bothered fixing it, Im sure a squirt of greese would have fixed it......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Hey I have a spare CAS unit if you wanted to borrow or buy
    • All issues mentioned are mitigated by running billet gears and a long nose crank. My question pertains more to the oil pump housing differences. I already have an RB25 pump housing I wanted to put billet pump gears in. I was wondering if there's any advantage if I purchase an N1 pump instead and put billet gears into that. Even stranger is I found a link (One in OP) that states the RB25 pump housing is actually preferable which I'm wondering why.   Thanks
    • In the middle of the rb25 upgrade on the rb20. Its actually a Arashi bolt on. Its in and lined up perfect First question is can I use a standard hose as my oil return line? New turbo fitting is shorter and having to  change the line/hose The oil supply/intake hose has a smaller hole than stock. Not sure I should go back with the old one   Any other tips would be appreciated   
    • So just to update: I changed the brushes over and polished the commutator using a 1500 grit sanding sponge; it was super easy to polish being copper. A power tool wasn't necessary, although could have made it easier if you have the finesse to use it well.     Yet this was to no avail, the motor worked as it did before, stop, start, stop start, etc. Today I went to my mechanic's shop to do a few things. I showed him the motor and asked in broken Japanese "who can fix this?", he took it from me and had a crack, was able to fix it-ish. From what I could understand (which is very little), the problem with the motor was with the clutch disc located amongst the gears, I saw it whilst he was working but couldn't identify any issues. I say he fixed it-ish, because now the motor will run continuously when free from the rack, which is great. But once I had reinstalled it, the tilt function would work but the sliding function sounded off, like the motor was under more load than before and the motor was struggling. We're going to pull apart the rack in the new year and see what we can find.  Hopefully this is of some help to others that get sunroof motor issues with their R34, S15 Silvia, or highly unlikely the Z10 cube. I will update this when more progress is made.
    • AFAIK in the RB26 section of the service manual it explicitly says not to take apart the AAC valve. If you took it apart once there's no harm in taking it apart again to see if you can save it.
×
×
  • Create New...