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will34

Good Place To Get A Rwc, Will Bigger Turbos, Power Fc And Boost Controller Be A Rwc Issue?

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will34    0

Its been a while since ive had to get a rwc,

im located in brunswick but happy to travel for a reputable person,

im looking at an interstate car just have some queries, have been told that bigger turbos, power fc and boost controller maybe a rwc issue?

can anyone confirm this?

could anyone recomend a good rwc workshop?

thanks!

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scotty nm35    829

You won't get anyone to recommend a good workshop willing to look a blind eye at mods. It's a good way for them to lose their RWC license.

PM me if you like. ;)

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paulr33    79

Technically it shouldn't

Roadworthy certs are to filter out cars with serious defects from being sold to other people such as rust, worn seatbelts, tyres, low brake pads etc. on the RWC there are basic sections for tyres, brake effectiveness, windscreen, etc. I doubt you'd find a section for aftermarket mods or non std items.

On my last RWC it failed (the car I brought) due to tyres and worn steering wheel. Mind you that was a shitty ba wagon.

You should be fine

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paulr33    79

i retract my previous comment

turns out there is a "modifications" section on the roadworthy slip as shown below. i honestly forgot about this section.

ill be going through similar challenges for my new car

has a few shiny things in the engine bay that wont affect "roadworthyness" but make it look shiny - so not sure if they will consider it a "modification"

the best i could find on the vicroads site was about modifications such as complete engine swaps, changes to gross/net vehicle weight and seating capacity changes

post-2054-0-88572700-1399777162_thumb.jpg

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paulr33    79

here's the vicroads section on "modifications" and the main categories

Change of body
Heavy vehicles
Light vehicles

Change of colour
Change of engine
Change to seating capacity
LPG & CNG conversions
Changes to recorded Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM)

No mention of aftermarket performance mods etc so you should be ok

will let you know how I go with my new car and its RWC (has a few mods)

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dan.1337    46

Didn't want to create a new thread so I've revived this one.

What's the current status on getting a RWC for a car with:

- ECU (PowerFC)

- Electronic Boost Controller

- Aftermarket steering wheel with no airbag (original had an airbag)

- Fixed back seat (car has been converted to 2 seater)

I think everything else on my car is fine.  I'd just like to understand these issues before trying to fix them.

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admS15    809

Probably won't pass with any of those if rwc tester is 100% by the book.

ECU is hidden so shouldn't be a problem. Remove hand controller if fitted.

Remove/hide boost controller

You can try your luck with the steering wheel and seats and see if they pick on them.

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Leroy Peterson    1,193

I'm confident deleting the airbag is instant defect UNLESS the model of car was offered with non-airbag version.

eg series 1 R33 (I believe)

Not sure about fixed back seat, if the car is registered as a 4 seater, then there needs to be 4 seatbelts, regardless of whether its been "converted" unless Vicroads have approved the change.

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vxsr33    36

May sound like a silly question but the tachometer in my r33 gtst manual cluster doesn't work anymore however the speedo and other guages work fine. Would this definitely not pass a roadworthy? Need to get one to clear a defect (too low).

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Birds    4,777

Common issue with 33s...not a roadworthy item though.

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TiTAN    838
May sound like a silly question but the tachometer in my r33 gtst manual cluster doesn't work anymore however the speedo and other guages work fine. Would this definitely not pass a roadworthy? Need to get one to clear a defect (too low).


The tachometer might just be dry joints, if you can solder or a mate can, it's potentially a very easy fix as that's a common issue with them. Generally it stops and starts working intermittently at first with changes in temperature and then will eventually just outright stop working if that is the issue. If it was working perfectly and then just stopped without bring intermittent it's probably more serious.
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vxsr33    36


The tachometer might just be dry joints, if you can solder or a mate can, it's potentially a very easy fix as that's a common issue with them. Generally it stops and starts working intermittently at first with changes in temperature and then will eventually just outright stop working if that is the issue. If it was working perfectly and then just stopped without bring intermittent it's probably more serious.

Thanks TiTAN, i already resoldered all the connections but to no avail, the tacho is mostly dead then has random spasms every now and then. The odometer has now stopped working aswell. Will just get a replacement cluster when i can.

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