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rb26 cams in rb20 with standard ECU works!


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i wouldnt be so sure about that mate, why do you think torque settings are spceified....

i actually was measuring with a micrometer today to see if the cams were bent at all (these are the ones i bought from BBenny) and it turns out that there is a very very small deviation on both cams of 0.09mm on the exahust cam and 0.06mm on the inlet cam. And i could just press slightly with my finger right in the middle and actually change it by 0.10mm. So you can imagine how much it would affect it if you tightend just one of the bolts too much.

The other interesting thing i found was that the lift in the inlet cam was actually 8.9mm not 8.5mm as seen on other threads. The exhaust cam was actually 8.5mm as previously described.

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Not sure if I agree with that. If everything is set up correcly I would think the only affect of overtightening the bolts would be some local distortion of the cap and head. Wouldnt it have to be massively overtightened for this to occur?

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i wouldnt be so sure about that mate, why do you think torque settings are spceified....

i actually was measuring with a micrometer today to see if the cams were bent at all (these are the ones i bought from BBenny) and it turns out that there is a very very small deviation on both cams of 0.09mm on the exahust cam and 0.06mm on the inlet cam. And i could just press slightly with my finger right in the middle and actually change it by 0.10mm. So you can imagine how much it would affect it if you tightend just one of the bolts too much.

The other interesting thing i found was that the lift in the inlet cam was actually 8.9mm not 8.5mm as seen on other threads. The exhaust cam was actually 8.5mm as previously described.

sorry i disgree.....It would make no diffrence....if you want to see if the cams are bent....you should be using a dial indicator

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Roy, when you did ur cam swap did you use a torque wrench and set it according to RB26 or RB20 specs?

Ill be trying the swap next w.end so we'll see how it goes...

Again, I will be following this thread with great interest as you swap out your cams as I am desperately wanting to know if its a go or a no go as I need to do my timing belt and thought I may aswell do it at the same time.

JK

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I think there are a few things that you need to be sure of to attempt this, judging by everyones experience - correct me if I am wrong :(

1) - straight cams

2) - correct tensioing of the cam caps

3) - nice new'ish timing belt that won't slip, prefferably a new belt

From everyone's experience, if all that is right, then correct installation should be no problem

Mine are on hold, injectors and PFC are next, then exhaust manifold and cams, maybe headwork......... where to stop :P

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For all those interested i have some R33 GTR cams arriving tommorrow and when i get a chance ill be putting those into my gts4. Not running std ecu through (have a link) but will let everyone know how i get on and if theres any probs (fingers crossed it works well )

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I think the general thinking is they are all pretty much the same with minimal differances?

Sydneykid would be the best bet to answer this, as from memory he has seen cars with 32,33 and 34 GTR cams installed

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Jaik:

"I" didn't install them, i had them installed by my mechanic. this is not something to play around with at home if you ask me...

and the car runs fine no hassles...

power increase was good top end but at that stage i had the stock cat-back exhaust on still.

Now that i have a 3" cat-back there is so much more midrange torque the cams have really shown their worth now. To use this as a benchmark, 0 - 160 i was 5 carlengths ahead of a manual tx5 turbo which had full exhaust, pod and headwork. and mine is an auto :cheers:

have fixed up a pinging problem i had (timing too far advanced) and keen to get it on the dyno at the next dyno day.

Waz.

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