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Perfect Top Feed Rail In Theory For R33 Rb25Det .


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thats why I am wondering if you couldn't just tap the fuel reg directly into top of rail, it has an o-ring on it already, so mill out an entry hole, then tap a thread either side of it and mount it on the flat top of the rail.....make sense??

wtf is a patina??

I think the oring is much smaller than the rail entry, plus you need the two threaded ears to bolt the reg to.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patina

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It's not about getting enough out of 740s , it's about how well they tune up and other people can fill you in on that topic . Aside from that side feed injectors are a right royal pain in the ass , a pain to get out of the rail compared to top feeds and tech wise they are a generation behind . A "factory" style top feed rail is held down by two or three bolts and disconnecting fuel is as complex as a couple of screw clamps .

I think some people have the notion that Bosch EV14 injectors are a balls to the wall moon shot product which is strange because they were designed to be an OE injector - NOT a motorsport component . If you don't believe me go check the flow rates of the unmolested ones and note that they don't have Bosch Motorsport part numbers . The highest flowing OE ones I know of are 550cc with a Ford Motorsport part number .

Meanwhile back at the rail , complicating shit - hardly .

Take a rectangular block of aluminium and drill three holes in it , tap two for the fastening screws . The GTt fitting is about 22mm deep .

Take a piece of aluminium rod and drill/tap it to take a suitable 90 barbed fitting . Weld both to the rail with the front on e crosswise . Fit end plugs back and front .

Assemble as if it were a factory top feed fuel rail .

Late edit , does any Nissan using this style reg have an aluminium fuel rail because if one did you could cut that section out/off and weld it on yer Skyline rail .

A .

Edited by discopotato03
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ahh yep...i'm with you now disco, yeah you could probably just attach the block via a fitting too, might be no need to weld it to rail...

If fitting is 22mm deep my idea probably wasnt going to work anyway...I dont remember how long the the 33 rail fitting is, i thought it was alot shallower than 22mm,..cause my plans all revolved around the 33 reg...

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I measure 10.77mm the reg sticks into the rail, the Oring is at 7.8mm (edit, for a 34 reg)

The Aeroflow rails are 5mm thick on the back/sides, so you would need a 5mm odd spacer between the rail and reg on the drawing above for it to work.

It would be easier to do what Disco wants, as I can turn that up in the lathe easily. The reg could go inline anyway, and barbed fittings are cheap over the counter, anodised already so the fuel won't eat them.

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It's around the same price as the EFI hardware adapter, but theirs uses 8 an like we need, not M16 like the Greddy one.

I will give them a call tomorrow and see what they can do in bulk, at least they are local...

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Just on regs you could surface mount a Honda style FPR across the rail because they don't have the barrel shaped section that projects through the mounting flange like Nissan ones do . They have a groove in them to take an O ring .

The drama you always end up with is standard regs tie you to the standard bleed port and it isn't always enough with higher volume pumps .

I'm not sure if it's possible to have what I want because no matter which way you do it the look is not exactly stealthy .

I did look into Sard and Tomei remote regs because they could probably mount where R33s have the fuel damper so out of the way . And avoid fakes .

I am curious to know if Plazmamans R33 top feed rail works with the standard upper plenum thought it may need shorter mounting pillars . Amongst R33 rails theirs is one that uses all three mounting points too .

A .

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Surely it is a no brainer to remote mount the fuel reg on the end of a hose way off the end of the rail? Just put any rail you want to use on the manifold, hang a bit of high pressure fuel line off the end of it, locate the reg down next to the fuel filter or similar location, stop worrying, profit.

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Just on regs you could surface mount a Honda style FPR across the rail because they don't have the barrel shaped section that projects through the mounting flange like Nissan ones do . They have a groove in them to take an O ring .

The drama you always end up with is standard regs tie you to the standard bleed port and it isn't always enough with higher volume pumps .

I'm not sure if it's possible to have what I want because no matter which way you do it the look is not exactly stealthy .

I did look into Sard and Tomei remote regs because they could probably mount where R33s have the fuel damper so out of the way . And avoid fakes .

I am curious to know if Plazmamans R33 top feed rail works with the standard upper plenum thought it may need shorter mounting pillars . Amongst R33 rails theirs is one that uses all three mounting points too .

A .

So now you want an aftermarket reg, after making me stuff around sourcing you a factory reg fitting?

EFI Hardware couldn't move much on price anyway. Probably best you just deal with Plazmaman.

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Scotty I didn't ask you for EFI Hardware's adapter but if you got one in I'll gladly pay for it and postage and your fee . I don't care about the money because it's the result I want or the least compromise anyway .

The bottom line is this .

The best way to mount the Neo rail is to use its whole inlet manifold or take the lower R33 manifold to a fabricator and get them to weld mounts on like the 34 version has .

You also end up with the short comings of the standard regs limited bypass capacity .

The simplest way to go top feed is to use any aftermarket rail you like and screw barbed fittings into it back and front . It's also the most obviously non standard because Nissan doesn't do it like that and especially not with a reducer and an adapter . Some manufacturers like Toyota have banjos screwed into aluminium fuel rails but not with the aftermarket 3/4 16 UNF thread fittings . I don't think there are banjo fittings available with 5/16 or 8mm barbs and a 3/4 16 UNF bolt .

It's probably simpler to screw blanking plugs into the ends of the aftermarket rail and fit 90 degree barbed fittings to the top of the rail back and front where the standard ones would be .

Now for those that think I'm pedantic . I am a qualified Fitter Machinist by trade and though I've been out of that trade for 25 years I know how systems are planned out by mechanical engineers and manufactured by companies who put their head on the block public liability wise . This is fuel system stuff and if it f**ks up you have a flammable liquid under pressure spraying around an engine bay with coils and alternators only too happy to light it up .

I couldn't give a rats what race teams do to race cars because they are not registered or insured to drive on public roads . They also have a fire service on hand to hose away the mess when things go bang .

A .

Edited by discopotato03
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This thread is over thinking to the max!

Do you have any examples of the stock regulators not being able to control pressure with bigger pumps?

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You also end up with the short comings of the standard regs limited bypass capacity .

I couldn't give a rats what race teams do to race cars because they are not registered or insured to drive on public roads . They also have a fire service on hand to hose away the mess when things go bang .

The stock reg can flow 400+ on ethanol, which is more than you are shooting for.

Most AN fittings and hoses are rated to 2000psi and handle much higher heat than OEM rubber, they are also ethanol safe, long term. I have been running Teflon lines for 5 years on e85 without an incident, why would it be more dangerous if designed correctly? It's certainly safer than OEM lines that aren't designed for long term ethanol exposure. Most people are running brake lines made the same way, is that a death waiting to happen too?

Sounds like you need to refrain from coming in the forced induction section, as illegal and aftermarket performance modification is 99% of the content in here, and you may just worry yourself sick. Spruiking public liability and fuel explosions makes me not want to help you at all, for obvious reasons. Sorry.

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Yuh, as opposed to being a qualified fitter or other skilled tradie, I'm an engineer, and wouldn't hesitate to use a rattle can black aftermarket fuel rail, barbed fittings, nylon braided aeroquip/whatever teflon fuel line and remote aftermarket reg (rattle can black again if needed) in order to get something that is stealth enough that no-one (no-cop) would spot it unless seriously looking hard and will work better and be easier to cobble together than some bitsa frankensystem that needs brackets and all sorts of other crap cut and welded to make it fit.

I empathise with disco's want to go under the radar, but seriously, you've got to lay off the pipe at some stage! :P

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Well I look at it like this , others obviously don't mind having the fuel lines fittings project straight out of the rails ends but if anything were to hit them they'd break off . By strike I mean if you crash the thing and stuff wants to wrap itself around the front of the engine . Steel lines tend to bend rather than break where with aluminium it's the other way round .

Manufacturers always do things for a reason and long short avoiding law suits is one of them .

It makes sense to have rail inlets/outlets on the tops of fuel rails particularly at the front (RB) so any vapour escapes from the highest point - like cooling systems are supposed to .

All I want to do differently is have the inlet and outlet on top and facing along the rail because I think they would be better protected . More stealth because they link up with the existing hard lines round the front of the inlet manifold . A black or silver rail won't look out of place if the front plug isn't blue purple gold etc .

Actually I have to look at pics of XR6T aftermarket rails because some of them I think have inlets on top or bottom rather than the ends of the rail .

Also I mentioned Plazmamans R33 rail because it uses three mounting points , others may as well .

The reg , once people start using high volume fuel pumps standard regulators often can't control fuel pressure at idle and light loads because the bypass hole in it is too small . Throw in the fuel pump rewire so it runs flat out all the time and you can see why the small hole can't cope . Then it screws up the tuning because you don't have a constant fuel pressure head over manifold pressure . Search overreaching FPR . This has nothing to do with the reg being able to flow enough fuel at high engine loads because that's not when the problem occurs .

I mentioned Sard and Tomei remote regs because they could fit down where the damper is in the return line behind the filter where the lines met at a right angle - like those regs inlets/outlets .

Scotty I don't have a problem with silicon or braided fluid lines done properly . I also don't have a problem with aftermarket systems but I prefer them to slot in like the manufacturer would have had it .

Do you sell genuine Sard or Tomie FPRs ?

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
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