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Dale FZ1

R33 Gtst Track Build

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Ran the car 2 weeks ago, here's the initial vibe from the changes to brake system.

Firstly - no vacuum assist is going to give a pedal requiring a much heavier push than OEM. And the initial feel is quite dead.

Secondly - the harder you work the brakes, the more feel you seem to get for them. Much more idea of what is going on underfoot compared to the OEM gear.

So there's a fair bit of acclimatisation required, at least for me there was. This setup gave very very good bias from the get-go. Nothing really needed doing to alter it. However the pedal effort was IMO excessive, and travel was over a very short range.

So I'm figuring the best bet is to come up with a BMC combination that gives the same/similar bias but reduce the effort and allow the driver to modulate the pedal if/when close to locking brakes. Smaller BMC is necessary to do that, and I'm just using a bit of maths to help the decision of what is required.

Otherwise - the Tilton pedal box gives scope to increase/decrease the pedal ratio and position. I found it necessary to move the pads sideways to make foot movements easier, and decrease pedal effort. Definitely a quality product.

The clutch MC selection was 5/8". I think it could have been a size larger, reduced travel and increased effort would probably help even up the pedal effort vs brakes.

The throttle linkage works great, and actually slowed the throttle action down compared to the OEM gear. This car runs a VH45 throttle and was previously quite sudden off idle. Now it picks up from a closed throttle at idle without stumbling, and throttle control off corners is easy and confidence inspiring. What made me happiest is it's something I built/modified from the Tilton throttle linkage kit. Beware that there's a lot of time involved in that part of the job.

The brake rotor/caliper/pad combination works properly and there's no complaint. Alpha Omega brackets do the job with the Evo Brembos, and the Winmax pads are the good thing I'm going to stick with. I will assess whether the rear Brembos and big rotors are necessary, but cost constraints haven't exposed deficiencies so far. Time will tell on that one. Braking consistency over several laps didn't change, and the whole thing was confidence building.

Bottom line for the event was running within 0.08 of my PB from last year for one lap, and 1.4 seconds quicker over a 4 lap run. Using same spec rubber and same spec brake pads, same suspension settings. There's quite a bit of improvement available when BMC changes are made, just going to need driver improvements to use it.

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Nothing too awesome but it was a good weekend.

Morgan Park E circuit. Best lap 1.09.949. Best run 4.44.025

Intercooler pipe blew off in the run against the BMW so that stopped the fun. Edited by Dale FZ1
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Making a couple of running changes in the breathers, so doing work to the cam covers. Haven't seen any pics or detailed commentary, but here's what's been done to slow and condense oil-heavy air being spat into the catch can:

Drill out the fasteners holding the baffle plates in place. Use louvred aluminium and cut/fold like a concertina. Install into the void, and retain the OEM screen.

Re-fix the baffle plates, using steel (not stainless, too likely to twist their heads off) self tappers. Apply a bit of Loctite. Seal the baffle plate edges as per the factory job using coppermax RTV or similar.

Total cost under $30. People running RB26 cam covers do mention Jap spec kits; whether they are the same or not, I bet they aren't in this same price bracket. Pics might help anyone thinking about doing the same.

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I've been using this same setup to pretty good effect the last few years, this new job is because I want to use some new fittings and I had a set of cam covers in the shed.

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Looking good buddy, i did a similar thing with mine but instead of the mesh i just used steel wool, seems to have worked pretty well i dont have a catchcan setup at the moment i just have 2 air filters and it doesnt seem to breathe oil at all.

How has the pedal box gone mate? What size masters are you running and how is it feeling for you?

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Got a bit of a story back up the page, post #83. I like the setup but we're continuing to play with it until it's better.

M/C sizing was 7/8 and 3/4.

I considered the steel wool for the breather, but didn't want to risk bits flaking/fracturing off and being sent through the oil system. Probably no risk, but that's what the thought process was. Plus we had the mesh already.

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I wouldn't use any steel wool type product, with it being too fine, even a small piece coming off, well...major damage potential. I used a perforated aluminium sheet myself which is actually gutter-guard, only $5 for a large piece.

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^^ I'm with you on this Andy.

The product I used is from a glazier, same stuff that goes in atop toilet/bathroom windows for ventilation. Cheap, readily available, and easily worked.

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i used the same stuff Andy is talking about in my covers. Pretty much the same way Dale did his covers too.

Dale, Do you think they showed any improvement? My motor breathes absolutely SFA; the catch can was bone dry before i did this, so Im not sure haha.

Edited by R31 drift pig

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I think this mod does help.

I generally get a bit of an oily sweat and a few drips around my catch can breather/filters after each session, managed by giving it a quick wipe with a rag.

My catch can is a big one, basically a large open chamber with a small baffled chamber to mount the filters on. The can itself might end up with 1.5 - 2 tablespoons full (max) after a 2 day event.

I'd probably make the can differently next time around, those breather sweats might not even happen.

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yeah, I have a 2 litre one, all tube baffled etc inside, and after a full day at sandown, and a full day on the DECA skid pan, the can was bone dry. But i did the cam cover baffles anyways.

Keep plugging away mate, getting some good results and ironing out the little details, looks like its pretty damn quick!

I may hit up MR Sheetmetal for a set of door trims in the next few weeks. I don't have the tooling here to make a set as nice as yours.

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Ran last weekend in Round 3 QSSS at Morgan Park.

D Circuit, 1.5km. 4 lap runs. Best run 3.21.761, best lap 49.136.

Trialed new spring rates from MCA, couple of alignment tweaks.

Got the BMC changes done, and new W3 rear pads installed. Did a basic workshop setup of the balance bar for a starting point.

The bad: really poor weather, heaps of rain prior to Friday practice and threatening snow on the Friday meant closed track so no chance to test/adjust.

The good: handling and chassis balance has lifted further again. Understeer did not show itself as a constant companion. Rear traction was good, oversteer not an issue on this version of the circuit used. The E 2.1km circuit has 2 challenging corners that test that better.

Brakes were further improved, pedal effort and travel now in a good range. I did have issues with bias (too much rear) that gave confidence issues and I did not lean on them as I wanted to. But they were better. Post event checking I think there was a novice error made and it should be good for the final round in the series.

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A few shots from outside the car. Thanks to fellow series competitor Tony Redwood for sharing his photos .

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can I ask what spring rates you have gone too ??

Im just going from 11F 5R to 14 F and 6R as I had / have massive understeer all the time

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That new combination should get you into the ballpark, perhaps even 15, 16 or 17kg depending on your car (yours has aero and adjusted roll centres I think?) and the track(s) you run at.

Josh knows his suspension best, so I would follow his advice/recommendations.

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It's still a heavyweight, and driving barely at clubman level. But it's got "enough" balance and gives "enough" driver confidence to hustle along ok.

And it's not a GTR or an Evo... ;)

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Ran the 33 again last weekend.  Fourth and final round of the QSSS A Series, running the 2.1km E circuit. 

Played with brake setup again, really getting acquainted with how to find a happy point for pedal effort, pedal position, and bias.  The more I'm doing with them, the easier it is to understand.  BMC sizes currently 7/10 and 3/4.

During practice it became evident that spring rates weren't right for this more technical/twisty version of the Morgan Park complex and I had to deal with understeer very noticeable at Gum Tree and Siberia.  Ride height changes and shock setting changes weren't quite getting the result, so a softer set of front springs went in for the event.

Result was a far better balanced car that turned in well, held a line and didn't really understeer or oversteer unless provoked by poor driving technique.  Brake balance, feel, and pedal effort were extremely good, very progressive and strong. 

During Friday practice, took the opportunity to have my first half serious run in a GTR (thanks Mafia), and decided I never want another competition car without a non-assisted balance bar brake setup.  That thing had ferocious braking ability but none of the progressive braking effort or feedback of my dirty old 2wd.  It did have stick, and could rev though...

Few niggling little issues to deal with over the weekend (anyone who says they had a perfect weekend aren't telling the truth) and the car was running times equalling its (my) best, but doing it without feeling like it was trying to have an off.  So, car feel better, driver confidence up, and more repeatable times than before.  Great weekend, plan to run again next season.

 

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