Jump to content
SAU Community

Tyre Crack/cuts On Inner Sidewall - What Could Be The Cause?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I was putting my tyres back on last night and was shocked to notice pretty severe cracks/cuts on one of them - only to find more damaged tyres soon after. Two of the tyres have deep cracks (front right and rear left) and one has less severe ones (rear right). See photos below.

These are good quality tyres, Goodyear F1 Asymmetric 2 in 235/45R17, manufactured in late 2011. I bought and installed them new in Jan 2013, and they have only about 15,000 kms on them.

I'm running BC BR coilovers and stock 17" R34 GTT wheels with 20mm spacers. I've checked all clearances several times and can't see where it could rub, certainly not on the inside. If only the fronts or the rears were affected it would make more sense, but that's not the case either.

What could be causing this? Do these look like a bad batch/compound or more like mechanical tears?

Thanks heaps.

Front right:

14911070992_4a012b229b_z.jpg

14888439566_4762c28f2f_z.jpg

14888439436_b43286287a_z.jpg


Rear left:

14911428395_3ecb5d87aa_z.jpg

14724820448_528f8aab4f_z.jpg

Rear right:

14908364011_6d9512f056_z.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This might be why Tirerack.com were getting rid of them for $100 each earlier this year. I have a set of same from the same 2011 batch on my car at the moment. I haven't noticed any sidewall cracks like that, but after 7000km they are nearly stuffed, and they are not a very good tyre anyway, so I will declare them well rid of when I replace them soon.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way most of the cuts appear suggests that its a tyre problem. If they were old tyres that had been sitting in the sun it would make more sense but could just be a bad batch as suggested

It doesnt really suggest a rub on something. I had tyres rubbing on a bit of the chassis that was pressed together and had a small section of flat steel sticking out. The fronts were just touching enough to wear out where the sidewall and tread met. Ended up costing me a set of otherwise great tyres. So I know what it should look like if it was rubbing. Because yours dont show a leading or trailing edge of a rub and they are just cuts then it looks like tyre defect to me. Or someone without much skill has tried to slash your tyres?

Talk to Taleb Tyres on here about it, they might have an idea and can sort out some new rubber for you if you dont have a trusted tyre shop you usually use. I got my Yokohamas for the rear from them and they have been great so far. My old Kumho KU31's were from there as well, also really good street tyres for the price

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks heaps guys!

I have contacted the original shop, let's see what they say.

It's a real shame, I like these tyres, they're a good all-rounder with decent grip in dry and wet, and low wear...

Oh well more money into the pit :/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously - gutters, on the inner sidewall? Only if you park on the footpath, with the outer wheel in the gutter.

Seriously - driveway? Ramp gutter/driveway? Drain pipes that poke out from said things....

Edited for, Mini roundabouts that you drive over, speed bumps, drains next to gutters, wooden bridges, section bridges, glass, nails, screws, car parts, children.

But they were made in 2011, so would be deteriorating and they need replacing regardless. The first time i spoke to my tyre guy, he told me never to use tyres that are over 3yrs old.

Edited by Stagea97
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Edited for, Mini roundabouts that you drive over, speed bumps, drains next to gutters, glass, nails, screws, car parts, children.

To be fair, none of those things should ever be driven over in a Skyline. Mazda 3, yes. Astra, yes. Any other FWD nugget shopping/kid carrier, yes. Skylines should go around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure that the cracks on these tyres are not from mechanical contact with anything. I try to avoid parking on the footpath with the outer tyres in the gutter ;)

I've been in touch with the tyre shop and they reckon one possibility is running too low pressures. Which would suck, since I've been following the tyre placard info to a tee at all times (32 psi).

See how we go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Just to close this one off, I have replaced these tyres with a new set of exactly the same brand and size.

I sent the previous set back for inspection and they had several people look at them, it was deemed premature sidewall failure due to too low pressure.

I just wish that someone had told me what PSI to run them at when I bought the set but oh well, live and learn. A nice thousand dollar mistake.

For reference the recommendation is 38-40 PSI for these tyres - my Jap and Aus tyre placards both say 32 PSI for the exact same size tyre...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldnt have thought 32psi would cause any damage at all, and should definitely be fine if you're running the factory diameter rims. I'm skeptical. Where does the 38-40 psi recommendation come from? Is there anything written on the sidewalls WRT pressure? What did the shop that fitted them pump them up to?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldnt have thought 32psi would cause any damage at all, and should definitely be fine if you're running the factory diameter rims. I'm skeptical. Where does the 38-40 psi recommendation come from? Is there anything written on the sidewalls WRT pressure? What did the shop that fitted them pump them up to?

Well the official line is that low pressure combined with non-stock camber is the cause. These tyres were ordered online from Sydney and put on by a separate shop in Melbourne (probably originally inflated to >32psi), and I maintained the pressure at 32psi since.

There is nothing on the sidewall to indicate minimum recommended pressure, only maximum. I raised this with the seller also to no avail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yuh, they shouldn't suffer at 32 psi in any way shape or form except that the handling won't be as good.

Interesting. So my warranty claim was denied due to the 'low pressure' and 'non-standard camber', I wonder if I could refer this issue to anybody else? Manufacturer? I obviously don't have the damaged tyres anymore so it's getting a bit complicated..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Walk away. File it in the lessons learned basket.

Also, when I said that they "won't suffer" it is actually possible that they might wear out a little faster, particularly near the edges, if the pressure is a little low. 32 is probably not low enough for that to occur.

32 is definitely not high enough for sustained high speed driving though. The tyres will get hotter and wear out faster that way for sure. Difference might not be great, but it will be there. And it won't feel as good anyway - so best avoided.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could;

- Get a written statement from a recognised expert (i guess that means a mechanic?) saying that the tyres were not "fit for purpose" (assuming that is the case)

- Ring Fair Trading, or whatever the equivalent department is called in your state, for advice on how to proceed to get a refund.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unfortunately this is a bit like arguing if you prefer blondes or brunettes....you will get people who strongly hold either view. My observation is I have had good results racing on MCA golds (spring led) but personally find Gary's approach of lighter springs and heavier bars is more predictable over mixed or rough surfaces like in rally (or an Australian road)
    • Yeah, they mentioned that its not worth upgrading from the stock sway bar due to how their coilovers are set up.  Still learning more about the suspension etc, but with Garys approach of lower spring rates and controlling roll with bars and obviously improved dampers, wouldnt that be like softer ride and more roll but with the sway bar, it keeps the roll to a minimum/lower amount? Where as MCA's approach of stronger springs, and dampers adjusted for the springs, wouldnt that be a harder ride (against bumps, going straight etc) and less roll, and the stock sway bar does its thing but the coilovers does the majority of the work? Its a daily so im in favor of a softer ride while normally driving but keeping the roll to a minimum while turning etc. Or am I getting my idea of suspension completely wrong?   I was looking at the Pro Comfort, it has the price hike of it being the MCA Pro series ( extra $400, total $2490 ). Ive read people saying the blue/red/gold series(and the blues being more favorable from the past threads) but what would those be nowadays?  What was the drive difference between the BC golds and the MCA Blues you got?
    • more then likely but not very practical for a street car 
    • AFAIK didn't some of the race variants of the 32s do this relocation? Just relocate the fuel tank into the trunk.
    • There’s a fuel tank in the way in a 32 
×
×
  • Create New...