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Actually I'm going to be going back to the factory CAS until I get the car tuned and a timing pickup gear designed for my setup. Call me impatient, but these things can wait until later and I'd rather not have complications on initial engine run-in. I'd personally like to see the differences that crank-based timing pickup makes regardless.

Still have lots to do and Redline shockproof is the best. Used it in all of my racecars so far...good to know! I'm saving my money for the R34 Nismo conversion. I like the fact that it will be all brand new components including driveshafts. This is still a majority street car that will handle some track days.

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The head drain will work as a breather in reality so may still give a small benefit.

As for catch cans, if you run into trouble the Autech catch cans work well on the R. Same principle the Bathurst R32 Race GTR used back in the day. If you don't plumb back into the intake( as your running MAP) you will probably be fine anyway.

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The factory CAS doesn't work well with Motec or Autronic, I can't comment on the Haltech. We run a custom Ref/Sync (Crank/Cam) setup on anything over 500hp. Be aware noisy signals could cause premature bearing failure. It's better/cleaner to trigger from the crank as it is not effected by timing belt harmonics.

Edited by BoostdR

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The factory CAS doesn't work well with Motec or Autronic, I can't comment on the Haltech. We run a custom Ref/Sync (Crank/Cam) setup on anything over 500hp. Be aware noisy signals could cause premature bearing failure. It's better/cleaner to trigger from the crank as it is not effected by timing belt harmonics.

So I've read. like I said the CAS will be replaced prior to tuning. I already have Murrayis kit for the cam as well as the two Honeywell sensors, but his kit for the crank ended up not clearing my Tomei oil pump. I'll be ordering a trigger gear for my crank pulley and machining it prior to turning up any real boost or rpms. The factory CAS will only be to run the engine in for break-in and to put a few miles on it.

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We just machine slots into the harmonic balancer, might be easier over a trigger gear. I can get pic's next time I'm at the shop if it helps.

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FYI... (while I'm keeping notes on my build)

I called Haltech.

The Haltech Platinum Pro (plug and play) for R32 can either use the factory CAS optical circuit OR use an AEM "24 and 1" trigger wheel in the CAS. The drop down menu selector for the trigger applies to the '24 and 1' setup. This setup would still retain the factory cam rpm "noise" due to the timing belt fluctuations.

OR...

You could use a hall trigger on the crank with a 12 tooth trigger wheel (or machine the crank balancer to have 12 slots) and this works as well with 24 and 1 setup due to the fact that the crank rotates 2x as fast as the cams (and 24 refers to cam rotation spots). you must use a Hall trigger or VR (reluctor) if you do this method (according to Haltech) and use either the AEM trigger wheel's '1' marker or the Murrayis single hall trigger for the "home" location on the camshaft.

In the software you can lock the timing and use a timing light to tell the ECU where to start timing AFTER the 'home' cam trigger is fired to get to base TDC.

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Cool thread man keep the updates coming!

the only thing i might add... Clear timing covers go to shit really quick. When in the car and done i would paint it. Or you will be cleaning it fairly often.

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Nice, I've had good results with haltech but only experience with sub 500hp and Oem cas. Be interested to hear how it goes. Does the haltech have a ref sync capture tool for analysing an oscilloscope style log? Would be good to obtain a before and after to see the change in noise.

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I've had good experience with a 24-1 CAS disk and haltech pro 2000 over 500hp. It's not as clean as a crank pick up, but much better than the stock CAS disk.

PITA to fit through.

J.

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Supposedly the data logs in high rpms (above 5k) show a drastic vibration of rpms (basically 900 rpm swings up and down). The higher the revs the more the swings...I do recall seeing a thread where this was datalogged clearly.

I do see merits of crank pickup vs. cam pickup for rpm for sure so I'm planning that and actually I found a GREAT spot for the honeywell sensor to bolt straight on yesterday, just didn't get to sort out a wheel yet. I am planning on designing / modifying something like motec's 12 tooth trigger wheel (may need to be larger diameter since the OD of the fluidampr harmonic balancer is 6.125").

as for the clear cover...yeah it's a novelty. I just figured something had to be chopped up to fit Murrayis setup and I didn't want to cut my stock one up since it's also powdercoated gold like the cam and top covers. This is kinda why I'm leaning back towards the AEM wheel in the CAS so I can run that again.

This website has been a great help. Thanks for the comments and feedback.

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You should be able to use the 1 slot in the 24:1 CAS disk as your home signal and run a crank position sensor.

This means you can run a standard cam cover and CAS as well as the accuracy of a proper crank pick up (this is what I'll be doing).

Id also suggest you get whatever work you need to do to fit the crank sensor done now while the engine is out.... it's a severe PITA to remove an rb26!

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You should be able to use the 1 slot in the 24:1 CAS disk as your home signal and run a crank position sensor.

This means you can run a standard cam cover and CAS as well as the accuracy of a proper crank pick up (this is what I'll be doing).

Id also suggest you get whatever work you need to do to fit the crank sensor done now while the engine is out.... it's a severe PITA to remove an rb26!

You clearly didn't see the pictures from yesterday on page 3! :) I left the crank bolt loose and the pulley should be easy to access with no radiator / fan in the way. I'm still waiting on my intake manifold anyway.

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Dude... you put the engine in with out the intake manifold...

Giggles.

Do you like to hit your head with a hammer while you eat ice cream? Its my analogy for trying to fit an aftermarket plenum to an rb26 in a 32.

Cheers

J.

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Drat!

Somehow I was thinking there would be all kinds of room for that install?! hmmm...Doesn't matter anyway needed to fabricate downpipe, oil cooler lines, intercooler piping. I wasn't about to wait 3 weeks to start all that nasty work.

I'm going to hold off on my "this turbo fits great on the RAW Brokerage manifold" for now. Ran into issues last night...not all of which are completely solved as of yet...stay tuned.

I did, however, find a GREAT spot to bolt the Honeywell Hall trigger straight to the oil pump cover. I will fabricate a mount to solidify it in it's location, but it sure looked convenient! I will need to machine a 12 tooth gear that will have to be like a flywheel ring gear on the outside of my Fluidampr harmonic balancer. Keep in mind that I am running Tomei pump and Fluidampr. This location may not work for anything else.

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Awesome build man! I'm waiting for my R32 GTR to go on the boat and make it's way to the USA. Very excited!

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Looking good, looking forward to seeing how the EFR works with the Crower.

Seen a few on RB30/26 but not on a stroker with the 0.92 housing.

A pity Full Race do not put up a graph of the blue R34gtr.

Keep up the good work !

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The factory CAS doesn't work well with Motec or Autronic, I can't comment on the Haltech.

just correcting this... the latest Autronic SM4 chip (1.09 i think) has no issues reading factory Nissan CAS sensors. the 180 tooth one.

Can still change the sensor, but its not necessary.

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Be interested to know how they fixed this when the inherent flaw is that lack of a crank mounted sensor rather than the Ecu. I know the Oem ecu actually changes its read mode to ignore the interference at high revs...

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Be interested to know how they fixed this when the inherent flaw is that lack of a crank mounted sensor rather than the Ecu. I know the Oem ecu actually changes its read mode to ignore the interference at high revs...

That's true, I believe the chip can read/interpret information quicker (apparently a 25% improvement over the last chip).

I'm mounting a sensor on the clutch to make up for no crank sensor... Damn nissans

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I am building custom engine mounts to lower the engine in order to clearance the turbo from the hood.

This was in addition to cutting the hood. It seems the angle of the RAW brokerage manifold just pitches the compressor up too high and it gets in the way quickly. They really could easily make another CNC machined collector to correct for this...but i'm not waiting again.

Now I have to reroute the PS return line and build a new AC line...which really isn't that big of a deal but dang I went with the RAW manifold because the Full-Race one had those issues and I didn't want to have to solve them.

But the custom mounts are already designed and I'm waiting on purable urethane to get here to finish them.

They will go from 1+13/16" height down to 1+1/4" height. Basically drops the engine 1/2", which should help CG other and only hurt with clearance on my already pretty low Greddy Trust oil pan sump. I'll get clearance numbers after I get it all together. I really only need to change the left side (when sitting in car), but I will likely build two of them.

I'll keep everyone posted. Big updates should be coming after this coming weekend.

I attached pictures of the location of the turbo AFTER lowering the mount by 1/2"! note how tall it still sticks over the fenders.

Thanks.

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