R32 Gtr Build In Usa

[HarrisRacing]

Hey there, build looks like its coming along great! I have a quick question. Stock belt for the alternator is Gates K040347, which is about 1/2" or 16mm longer than the K040340 belt that you used. Is that because the Fluidampr has a smaller size? I have a fluidampr that I'm going to be installing soon, so looking to see if ordering the stock belt size would not be right. I'm looking at the Gates blue racing belts too:

Gates K040347RB Blue Racing Micro-V Belt - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TTKPF2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=19NGU4K5QEJSZ&coliid=I3BFQIAYWSJ065 Gates K040340RB Blue Racing Micro-V Belt - http://www.amazon.com/Gates-K040340RB-Blue-Racing-Micro-V/dp/B000TTKPDY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462200886&sr=1-1&keywords=K040340RB

Honestly I never measured and compared to the factory harmonic balancer (I guess I could because I still have it), But here is a picture I snapped of the belt identification and you can see that it adjusted pretty much in the middle of the alternator adjustment, so it's definitely close and gives room to adjust for any stretch. I am willing to bet 1/2" wouldn't hurt anything though because it's pretty adjustable there. The PS belt had much less room for error for my setup. (78 was too long and 65 was too short).

[flowgoode]

Honestly I never measured and compared to the factory harmonic balancer (I guess I could because I still have it), But here is a picture I snapped of the belt identification and you can see that it adjusted pretty much in the middle of the alternator adjustment, so it's definitely close and gives room to adjust for any stretch. I am willing to bet 1/2" wouldn't hurt anything though because it's pretty adjustable there. The PS belt had much less room for error for my setup. (78 was too long and 65 was too short).

Ok cool man. Thank you for the info. I'll just get the K040347 and the same belt you got for the PS. Keep up the good work!

[HarrisRacing]

Oh I'm sooooo close!! Shame I have to be out of town again this weekend or surely there would be video of it running!

[HarrisRacing]

Drat!

One big thing. Oil pan has about 6 pin holes in the welds. Slow drips of oil out of them. This will surely get worse when it heats up. This is a pretty major issue as of now but...

Haltech setup and wiring went very well. Went through menus and setup everything and I'm having an issue with my crank / cam pickups.

I am getting voltage changes at my GAPS in the harmonic balancer when rotating by hand, and I get voltage changes in my TOOTH in my cam trigger as well when rotating by hand, but the count is wrong in my computer and it won't give an rpm signal.

After reading about the honeywell GT101 sensor it will read GAPS And TEETH but they are reversed on the low / high voltages. What I mean is that I think the haltech is expecting a short-timed LOW voltage on the crankshaft and I'm not giving it that. It is likely staying LOW so long that it times out? I have an open query to Haltech about it.

I'd like to at least hear it run before getting to that oil pan! AND this thing took 9 quarts of oil from dry! 9!!! crazy.

[HarrisRacing]

Haltech is saying that their software doesn't care about highs or lows (teeth or gaps) just changes in voltage so it's likely getting noise somewhere else. I'm going to check my cam bolts depth by greatly exaggerating the longer bolt from the shorter 3 tomorrow.

Halfway embarrassed to say but I tried an industrial metal epoxy on the oil pan. First drained all oil. Then pumped thinner into the sump through one of my oil drain fittings (so as to not wash the whole engine with it - only the sump area where the welds are) and watched it rain thinner out of the holes. Then drained that, took heat gun and sweated out remaining thinner / oil. Final rinse and reheat then applied epoxy to the all of the welded areas. I hope it holds if not I only lost a couple of hours (compared to pulling engine or pan this is nothing really).

Prayers welcome

[admS15]

May the son of rajab be your saviour. Fingers crossed

[sneakey pete]

Pressure tested mine and had a gun welder do it, so fingers crossed..

[iruvyouskyrine]

What brand sump is it mate?

[HarrisRacing]

Greddy trust

[HarrisRacing]

It was the tiniest of pin holes. Had 5 of them. Welder said he did the water test and checked it but there's no way I believe that. I could have spot fixed it, but I figured they may not all be visible at room temp so I went on with coating the whole weld.

I used belzona 1111 metal epoxy. It is rated for temp and made for metal repairs. I just need it to stay sealed.

And I am not planning on this being permanent, I just need to get the car tuned and tested on. Of course I will fix it correctly later but I'll see if I have any other issues first.

[HarrisRacing]

OK so the epoxy worked pretty well. There is still one that I simply just missed covering up, but I think I can fix it later when I permanently fix the pan.

BUT the car runs!!!!

VERY IMPORTANT:

When using GT101 (or any other cam and crank triggers) the signals are backwards in the Haltech for the AEM "24 and 1" setting that is the other default choice in the Haltech Platinum pro plug n play. The GREEN/YELLOW signal wire is for the CAMSHAFT HOME signal (1 click per camshaft rotation).

The other wire works for the crankshaft on a 12 groove crankshaft.

[HarrisRacing]

Well I had an issue. A major major issue.

After getting everything up to temp and going well on coolant and oil pressure I started on the throttle body and cracking it for more airflow as well as setting TPS. I got the car idling and then started setting base trims and revving the car a bit (didn't want to just idle a new motor) so I started revving a bit up to 5-6k...light revving only no loads. Well it was sounding good and trims coming in great and then I heard a noise. First was a bit of a "clunk" noise that both my helper and I heard (backfire in intake of sorts) then I heard the knock. Rod knock...shut down, checked oil again - level is good (halfway up dipstick so some air came out). Cranked back up breifly and really decided not to give any more rpms and shut it down.

This bothered me to no end all night. I can't sleep and it's really getting at me because this is the first bottom end I have ever put together (measuring all myself etc) that has ever given me such an issue.

So I am writing now to say that I completely overlooked filling my oil cooler and my oil cooler feed lines. We primed FOREVER without the plugs in to get pressure but I didn't even think about the greddy thermostat. What the hell total oversight. I'd bet the farm that while we were doing our little revs the oil temp finally got to temp and opened up and sent a half quart of air to my bearings. I'm really scared the clunk was the camshaft starting to seize.

I have no clue why I didn't think to pump through the cooler with a fluid pump to prime it but I didn't...

Since I need to pull the oil pan anyway to fix the last leak I'll start there and check no 1 rod.

It should be noted that the oil pressure was stupid good. Like incredibly high. On the stock gauge at idle just under the '4' at idle! Also backed up by haltech pressure gauge. But pressure is only part of the indicator...as this is close to the housing after the pump...and this would have pushed the air in the cooler straight to the bearings in the event of oil thermostat opening.

I attached my oil filter insides. What do you guys think?

[Yonz]

Can you post a pic of your thermostat mate?
​I'm pretty sure the Greddy oil thermostats are never fully closed, to avoid the engine getting a dose of cold oil once it gets to temp. So I doubt very much your engine got any air due to it opening.

Also, how much of that metal would you guess came from you cutting the filter open?

Edited May 11, 2016 by barbados_26

[HarrisRacing]

The metal in the pleats (valleys in the picture) are definitely from the inside of the engine...not from cutting. Oil was clear but lots of shimmery metal. Could be normal for break in honestly.

[HarrisRacing]

And yes greddy thermostat and then a greddy oil relocation on top of that. It's mostly closed off when cold but there is a tiny bypass.

[HarrisRacing]

The picture in the bath is hot (oil cooler receiving oil). Picture out is cold. Entry would be on table side coming through the port with the hole that gets covered when heated (which forces through the cooler).

Oil pressure was strong. Never noticed an issue even during knocking sounds.

[Yonz]

The metal in the pleats (valleys in the picture) are definitely from the inside of the engine...not from cutting. Oil was clear but lots of shimmery metal. Could be normal for break in honestly.

Shit ay, that sucks.

​I haven't run in a new engine before, so unfortunately I can't help you there. Hopefully some of the more experienced blokes will be able to give advice.

​Either way, I hope it's nothing too serious

[SimonR32]

The metal in the pleats (valleys in the picture) are definitely from the inside of the engine...not from cutting. Oil was clear but lots of shimmery metal. Could be normal for break in honestly.

I'd almost guarantee that it's done a bearing or worse. Normal break in doesn't get glitter oil

[sneakey pete]

I installed an oil kit with thermo on my engine and never even thought to prime it, but didn't get any issues, maybe its something else?

I mean, even if it wasn't all out by the cranking you did, the amount of oil being pumped through the partial opening, (assuming it was there?) when the engine was idling and still not up to temp would easily have pushed it all out. The pumps move a crapload of oil remember!

[HarrisRacing]

We cranked forever. Even broke fittings at turbo to make sure it was clean oil and flushed before sending any break in lube there.

This video is just minutes before the noise.

https://youtu.be/2zFD_4tLqQA