Jump to content
SAU Community

Pull Type Clutch Won't Disengage

iruvyouskyrine

By iruvyouskyrine,
in Drivetrain and transmission

 Share

Recommended Posts

Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

Bump.

Mates having the exact same problem with his pull clutch. Looking for internet help before I have to pull the box out myself :P 

It will grind all gears, but will eventually go into gear.
Engagement is all the way to the floor.
Brand new single plate clutch with flywheel.
Master and slave were never separated.
Made a 4mm spacer for the slave to get full travel and it still won't fully disengage.

This seems to be a pretty common problem, with no resolve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I went from an RB25DET Neo bottom end to a RB30E bottom end. Gearbox/clutch/slave/master were all the same components.

Turns out that the crank in RB30's must be lost than RB25 as what was happening was the sleeve over the input shaft (the thing the throw out bearing sits on) was pushing on the centre of the clutch disk and pushing it into the Flywheel, providing drive even when the clutch was disengage.

So the clutch fork was moving fine, the pressure plate was being released no problems, but because the clutch disk was bent pressed against the Flywheel it was like it wasn't working.

So I got a small Dremel and cut about 5mm off the end of that shaft, put the box in and never had any more issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the reply. Interesting and funny it was just enough not to work, but bolt on fine.

I think there may be a problem with the throwout bearing on this one. As there is a clip collar (circlip) that the fork bearing slips into and it is meant to hold them together? I haven't seen a gtr one before.

 

My theory is, if the circlip is damaged the fork bearing will grab a little and then pull through.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
wildeagle44 Enthusiast

wildeagle44

Posted
Posted
On 27/08/2017 at 9:13 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

So I went from an RB25DET Neo bottom end to a RB30E bottom end. Gearbox/clutch/slave/master were all the same components.

Turns out that the crank in RB30's must be lost than RB25 as what was happening was the sleeve over the input shaft (the thing the throw out bearing sits on) was pushing on the centre of the clutch disk and pushing it into the Flywheel, providing drive even when the clutch was disengage.

So the clutch fork was moving fine, the pressure plate was being released no problems, but because the clutch disk was bent pressed against the Flywheel it was like it wasn't working.

So I got a small Dremel and cut about 5mm off the end of that shaft, put the box in and never had any more issues.
 

Sorry to re bump

 V

but i think im having the exact same problem. Did a crankshaft swap in my motor. Bolted it all in and together but cant select gears when its running. 

Had the box back out, rechecked clutch, fork, bearing etc and all were good. Put back in and no good.

When you say 'cut 5mm off the end of that shaft' what shaft are you referring to? The crankshaft? Input shaft?

If you could describe it a bit more that would be great. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

You need to measure from the block to the throw out bearing face , and on the gearbox side from the belhousimg block mating surface to the throw out bearing and figure out what is going on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Ok, so we've had some (expensive) problems but nothing critical, thankfully. I get parts from FCP Euro in the states and in this instance I got 4 x genuine BMW cooling lines and 4 x OE quality oil lines (because they had no genuine stock). Well, turns out the OE quality didn't fit and the guys wasted a lot of time with them. Thankfully FCP has lifetime returns but the genuine BMW lines locally were $250 each! They also discovered my drivers side engine mount was totally dead and the replacement mount was $350. This sucks as I almost bought new mounts when I did my FCP order and I would have had both the engine mounts for less than this local one. So, I'm assuming at least another $1500 on top of the existing number. They did reassure me that the new (used) turbos looked good which was my main worry. Car will be ready for Monday pickup. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      r34 GTT Excessive fuel consumption on stock Rb25det neo

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Forgot to add, that excellent economy was on street tyres, normal street alignment, I recall they were Kumho KU31. Current motor, with the silly alignment and tyres would go nowhere near those numbers.
    • GTSBoy
      r34 GTT Excessive fuel consumption on stock Rb25det neo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And also, as small as the effect may be, the larger exhaust side places a lower restriction on the exhaust flow, even when off boost. When my bigger turbo went on you could hear the difference in the exhaust note at cruise (almost everywhere actually) and fuel consumption went down a little bit.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      r34 GTT Excessive fuel consumption on stock Rb25det neo

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I got better economy after fitting a bigger turbo (when purely highway driving, Sydney to Forster, got down to ~8.3L/100KM), as it takes more throttle and RPM to get on boost.
    • GTSBoy
      Best bolt-on twins for RB26, ~300kw?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oops. Sorry mate. It is both excellent to hear and also surprising though. The amount of work required to (effectively manually, not on a production line) build a core vs your low retail price point is why I presumed that you were buying cores. But let's also be clear about what is meant by "build". At your price point I can't see you making cores from billet on a mill, even if CNC, or doing all the machine work on a rough casting. Surely the lumps of metal are sourced more or less ready to go from an Asian supplier, right? Maybe the same with shafts. I mean, you could turn shafts up yourself, but it's pretty slow going for items that are all essentially bulk order producable. I was always perfectly willing to believe that you assemble your wheels to shafts, fit up bearings and do all the balancing. I actually expected that you would have been doing all that even if the core did arrive from a supplier with most of that pre-assembled. Nevertheless, please accept my apology.
×
×
  • Create New...