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Duncan

Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau

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Took the engine out yesterday, and since there have been a few discussions about it lately I thought I'd share how I did it. I'm no mechanic and had no hoist this time; no doubt others will do it faster or slower, this took me 5 hours. Probably would have gone a little quicker but I had a stripped nut on the LCA ball joint and the exhaust was damaged and jammed where the tree hit the quarter panel.

Disconnect battery (thanks Ben!)

Drain radiator, front diff, sump. I've got an old blanket that I chucked under them all because the coolant in particular never co-operates and who wants to lie around on old car fluids for the rest of the day?engine out 4.jpg

Back off alternator and power steering adjusters, take belts off

Remove airbox, AFM, intake pipes including BOV return balance pipe. Hose pliers like these really help to not damage stubborn hoses (and hands)

engine out 2.jpg

Remove radiator with shroud on, fan and fan belt out the top

Remove blow off valve pressure feed, main earth, boost solenoid (boost solenoid goes out with the engine)

Remove fuel lines and throttle cable. Block fuel lines with 8mm bolt and label them to save trouble on re-install!engine out 1.jpg

Remove brake and clutch vacuum booster line and any other vacuum lines eg boost controller or MAP sensor pressure

Remove starter motor and alternator wiring

Remove injector (etc) wiring on top of the engine and move out of way. These bent nose pliers are handy with both nissan breather spring clips and those nasty little spring clips on injectorsengine out 3.jpg

Remove oil cooler lines. I have a connection where they run under the chassis rail from the engine adapter plate to the thermostat that makes this much easier. Removing lines from an adapter plate on the engine is somewhere between hard and impossible depending on space.

Then on to the stuff where I wish I had a hoist....

Remove Zorst mid pipe and rear pipe. For me that includes the wide band 02 sensor in the front pipes

Remove LH driveshaft (I did actually forget this step until I was trying to lift the engine....)

Remove RH driveshaft. This can be a major pain but it went OK for me this time. I removed split pin, undid hub nut with rattle gun, removed washer. Then undid 19mm bolts holding lower control arm ball joint to the upright and removed the shock and sway bar (seems like a lot of undoing but it makes removing the hub end of the cv easier). Removed hub end of the cv. Then, using a large pry bar I pried the diff end out of the diff housing. After it had moved a little, I backed out one of the diff cover bolts so that I could keep prying (the lip on the cv is pretty small.  engine out 5.jpg

Remove starter motor (14mm stubby ratchet, use a piece of rope looped around it to pull from below if it's too tight)

Remove front drive shaft

Jack under the gearbox cross member, remove cross member bolts and drop as low as possible without putting strain on the ATTESSA feed

engine out 6.jpg

Undo 8 bolts holding engine to gearbox. With the rear of the gearbox low you can run a set of long extensions (1 use 4x 3/8) to get a 14 socket above the gearbox to the top bolts. All the rest are straightfoward.

Undo engine mounts.

Attach lifting crane, lift out of engine mounts, then pull forward until the (extended) sump is about to hit the sway bar, then up higher to clear the sway bar (by now the input shaft is out of the spigot bearing), then forward until the balancer just clears the radiator support, then up and out.

While still on the hoist, remove clutch cover, clutch, flywheel and engine plate, then bolt onto engine stand and job done.

engine out 7.jpg

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Pretty much do the same thing, but mostly pull box after that too for some reason.

5hrs is a cracking effort Duncan 👍

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Did f**k all on the race car this weekend because a couple of other jobs pushed in

The tractor 3 point link needed sorting so I could mount the slasher up properly (it had been running cat 2 pins on a cat 1 linkage for probably 30 years, really not OK when it is not to complex to run adapter bushes). Anyway, all converted across and ready to kill tall weeds again next weekend.

Then, I took the stagea for a zoom over to a neighbour's on Sat night, about 1hr each way. I was about 5klm out of Crookwell when I noticed the dash clock had gone really dim. Checked the volt gauge and it was down to 9.4v...got worse as I got closer and by the time I arrived it was down to 8.5v and missing like a bitch.

Anyway, got a lift home and went back to pick up the car this morning. I figured the charge light globe had failed causing the alternator not to charge because it all went bad pretty suddenly. After pulling the dash apart and checking the globe, it was fine which was kind of annoying. Chucked the old race car alternator on it, and it started charging fine, so something in the alternator had died suddenly. Kind of annoying but the car has over 400,000klm on it and as far as I remember the alternator was original.

Anyway, the only thing I did on the race car was put in place a better engineered solution than the traditional jack stand.

One M10 rivnut in the firewall,

2021-02-13 09.51.46.jpg

Add chain and voila, gearbox is not going anywhere it shouldn't while at the panel shop

2021-02-13 09.56.13.jpg

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Duncan, do you have more info on the QuickJack?

Where did you get it from, and do you have pics of it WITHOUT the car sitting on it?

From your under car pics, clearance looks good for being in the middle, BUT, is there any supports going left to right to join each section?

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31 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Duncan, do you have more info on the QuickJack?

Where did you get it from, and do you have pics of it WITHOUT the car sitting on it?

From your under car pics, clearance looks good for being in the middle, BUT, is there any supports going left to right to join each section?

I'm also looking at these things

Costco have them for $1900

https://www.costco.com.au/Automotive/Car-Accessories/QuickJack-Car-Lift/p/8513217

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They are basically a pair of electrically powered hydraulic platforms. You can run them either along or across the car. I run them under the sills as that doesn't block anything you really need to get to.  It is clear under the middle, but note that to get under the car you need to go from front or rear because the jacks are in the way...

They lift the car about 500mm off the ground so it is higher and more stable than a jack and stands. And once they are in place, much quicker to raise or lower.

However, I got the 12v 3t (BL-7000SLX) set and they are mega heavy to move around. Assuming they are stored away, you need to drag them to the car once it is in place, then drag them across the floor until they are even front to back and side to side under the sills. Then hook up 12v source and the hydraulic lines, put rubber blocks under the jack points and you are ready to go. I haven't weighed them individually but the website says 110kg for the 2 platforms + motor (even the 1500kg ones are listed at 82kg)

Considering the cost and the fact you are still lying on the ground, I wouldn't buy them unless you are regularly working on cars, and you don't have space for a hoist. A hoist is about the same price and way more versatile.

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On 14/02/2021 at 9:39 PM, Duncan said:

Did f**k all on the race car this weekend because a couple of other jobs pushed in

The tractor 3 point link needed sorting so I could mount the slasher up properly (it had been running cat 2 pins on a cat 1 linkage for probably 30 years, really not OK when it is not to complex to run adapter bushes). Anyway, all converted across and ready to kill tall weeds again next weekend.

Then, I took the stagea for a zoom over to a neighbour's on Sat night, about 1hr each way. I was about 5klm out of Crookwell when I noticed the dash clock had gone really dim. Checked the volt gauge and it was down to 9.4v...got worse as I got closer and by the time I arrived it was down to 8.5v and missing like a bitch.

Anyway, got a lift home and went back to pick up the car this morning. I figured the charge light globe had failed causing the alternator not to charge because it all went bad pretty suddenly. After pulling the dash apart and checking the globe, it was fine which was kind of annoying. Chucked the old race car alternator on it, and it started charging fine, so something in the alternator had died suddenly. Kind of annoying but the car has over 400,000klm on it and as far as I remember the alternator was original.

Anyway, the only thing I did on the race car was put in place a better engineered solution than the traditional jack stand.

One M10 rivnut in the firewall,

2021-02-13 09.51.46.jpg

Add chain and voila, gearbox is not going anywhere it shouldn't while at the panel shop

2021-02-13 09.56.13.jpg

One day you will drill a hole in the firewall so life is easier to get at the starter motor bolt.

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