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Jacob's R33 Gtst S2


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Looking good!! What did you end up changing in the fuel pump relay setup compared to what you were originally doing? I was pretty sure a relay will close with only very small voltage, so im curious as to why that wouldnt work.

Look forward to more updates..

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Thanks KD,

I was talking to Scott and he mentioned that the relay wont energize properly on the low power coming from the FPCM so it would be better to use a solid state relay then energize the fuel pump relay with that.

I haven't changed it yet but I'll just keep an eye on it all and see how it goes for now!

Stay tuned, I'll be doing the turbo, clutch and a few other things in the next few days

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Keep up the posts man it looking good!

I recently installed the same BOV just running stock boost and there was a noticeable improvement in spool up!

Oh - I didn't realise it would also help with spool! I guess its good for me then too :)

The car is running quite rich which I'm guessing has something to do with the new pump as it ran fine before that so I've ordered a fuel pressure gauge to check

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After installing the pump the car was running a bit how do you do.

I looked around and spoke to a few people and they mentioned that the stock fuel regulator could be failing or couldn't be keeping up with the return flow.

I ordered a Nismo FPR to keep the stock look and the a gauge and installed it today.

The car seriously runs a lot better - its practically day and night comparison.

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I didn't post pics the other day for some reason but

Nismo FPR

27890D23-EECB-45E3-A361-19BE42926930_zps

Gauge

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Wastegate actuator - I need this because I don't want to be running 20 pound all day every day. I know someone else who installed the same actuator with the same turbo without issues.

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Extra springs of different pressure. Ideally I'll be putting the 15psi spring in and running low boost at wastegate pressure and full boost between 18 and 20.

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Manifold studs - I bought them from a place in QLD if I had realised they would drop ship from GCG I would have picked them up from GCG myself considering these took over 3 weeks to get to me.

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I also fitted my Nissan Genuine OEM clutch master cylinder then Ordered my HEL Braided clutch line today, Ordering my clutch kit tomorrow night, Nismo pivot etc.. Then we do the clutch Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday.. ON THE FLOOR WITH NO HOIST :O

Pics and updates to come when we do the clutch then turbo shortly after. Then I'll order the injectors and send it for a tune. Completion date for this work is aimed to be the 20th November.

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I caved last night and started ripping shit out of the car.

Starter Motor off

Tailshaft marked

Fluid dropped

Shifter out slave off

All connectors removed from box

Breather off the gearbox

I won't have time to work on it tonight but I'll continue tomorrow night for sure.

Progress pictures to come tomorrow.

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Soooooooo. Pulled off the clutch, flywheel etc.

Yesterday when I got the gearbox before removing the above I could see what looked like the lightweight flywheel I just bought.... I was right, already had a lightweight flywheel.

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Some weird sort of thread locker?

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This was the old clutch BTW
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No stamping of part numbers on it and in all honesty, great condition but it just won't keep the power when the car is done.

Rear main - Struggling to get it out but I'll get to it.

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More pictures eventually. I'm going to work on creating a how to using someone else's instructions with their permission and detailed pictures. In particular the top gearbox bolts which are beyond stupid.

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I caved in and went back outside to do more work in this terrible heat.

Before

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Cleaning up/after

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Having a very hard time with the spigot bush so I may go buy a removal tool tomorrow or try the grease method (which failed once today)

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Looks good so far man. Keep up the hard work! I've yet to do a clutch replacement in mine!

Thanks Dan! I'm not at the stage of getting it back on yet but right now I have no problem doing it on the ground with jack stands and ramps. A hoist would be ideal but not impossible to do as I am.

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Borrowed a blokes spigot bush puller and got the stupid thing out today. Tried to get a new one in and messed it up pretty badly so I'll have to try another method of getting it back in tomorrow with a spare I have here.

26E18841-FD62-43CA-A73A-009A2B1481EC_zps

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Was going to do a DIY but I didn't take that many pictures because I was too grumpy. I would not do this without a hoist again, If the box was to come off again I would rent a hoist or do it at a mates shop. It's quite hard for me to get the car around until December so I had to go with doing it at home. Got everything back on today and a friend gave me a Wideband to go in the car also which I'll get a bung welded in for when it goes to JEM next month.

A run-down of everything that happened

I broke a spigot bush getting it in like an impatient idiot - So I grabbed my spare, greased it up, chopped up a spare alignment tool and pressed it in. Getting the gearbox itself back on took roughly 45 minutes of struggling with a trolley jack and my brothers help. A note on the torque of the flywheel bolts is by using a flat bit of steel with two holes 4cm apart on the pressure plate bolt and the bell housing bolt and torquing it up using that to hold it. The pressure plate bolts were done by holding it still with our hands.

Torque specs are here for those interested.

Balancer Bolt - 142-152
Flywheel Bolt - 124-152nm
Clutch Bolt - 34-44nm
I did the flywheel to 145nm and the Pressure plate to 38ftlb (yes I know different measurements).

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If anyone else wants to do this at home send me a PM and I can help out by answering any questions.

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