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Autobahn88 Vs Kls Power Spirit Vs Stock Intercooler


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hi skyliners

im looking at getting a intercooler for my gtr

I will be running soon a garret t04z with as much boost as 98 ron can get me with a good tune

I current looking at starting off with a 2nd hand autobahn88 100mm thick or KLS power spirit 120mm thick.

I currently have the stock gtr cooler with a GT35r turbo 20psi

what are you guys thoughts ? are theses ebay coolers not worth touching??

eventually i might get a trust or GOOD branded cooler just thinking i can get these coolers for cheap so why not??

cheers

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all on the cheap - not worth doing.

Save and get better or you will regret the money you spend now and have issues.

T04Z - older tech, comes on late and strong. The lag will piss you off.

2nd hand? Autobahn88 - cheap tech

My advice would be to keep your 35R and your OEM IC and enjoy it till you have $$$

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Thanks guys

ill pass on the ebay coolers and save and hunt for a cool one what brands are recommended :

trust, hks , plazmaman , tomei ???? any others

ive had the turbo brand new in the box for about 5 years now and never put it on my gtr in NZ cause ive moved over here!

I got used to the power of the GT35R running 20-22 psi

what is bad about the garret to4z??? - i dont think ill mind the lag and id like the power coming on hard

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Lag is also effected by supporting mods and certain mods can make lazy turbos not so lazy

As for cooler, the stock 32 cooler is good upto about 350rwkw, after that the pressure drop starts to rob you of potential HP, so say you make 400rwkws (nice round number) with the stock cooler, changing it to a better cooler that reduced the pressure drop without losing heat transfer could get the same setup to say 420rwkws depending on quality of cooler and verious of supporting mods said setup already has

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The stock cores actually cool quite well, it just isn't the best flow wise when upping the power out put due to runner size and runner entries which is something that is addressed with the more expensive coolers

I personally would push the R32 one past 350rwkw, after that if the budget is tight the KLS or Autobahn88 kits are not to bad and about the level of design as stock just thicker, just don't go more then 100mm or you will start to feel the extra time it takes to pressurise the extra volume, obviously like with anything you get what you pay for

Tube and fin is better then bar and plate, bar and plate generally flow more but heat soak worse, flow can be increased with size, heat soak can't, there is an interesting article on this on the ARE website, the pics on the KLS show both tube and fine and bar and plate :/

The hypertune cooler is good value for money but is not a direct replacement so custom mounts and pipe work will likely be needed :(

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I could only get out 326awkws out of my GTR 33's stock cooler and I've tried three different turbos. I'm currently using a cheap Jap branded made in China cooler in 600x300x100mm and that worked extremely well. Read the last few pages on my thread, and there are dyno readings shown power, boost and torque changes going up from stock cooler to 600x300x68mm then to 600x300x100mm using the same turbo.

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What you guys also need to factor in is the intake air temp.

Stock might flow fine, but it may not cool that well. This potentially is something that would limit power being made.

After a 15min hills run mine IT temp was 10-15c above ambient on your standard evening, and that's with the shitty factory sensor that gets a LOT of heat soak and takes a while to cool off... As have many other GT-Rs around the 350-380rwkw marker.

Problem is most people go for a 5min drive with a GT-R, see the IT temp hasn't really moved - but that's because it's in a terrible position. You need to give a solid 10-15mins of airflow to get it to the actual reading.

Or install an aftermarket one and be surprised.

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After a 15min hills run mine IT temp was 10-15c above ambient on your standard evening, and that's with the shitty factory sensor that gets a LOT of heat soak and takes a while to cool off... As have many other GT-Rs around the 350-380rwkw marker.

Problem is most people go for a 5min drive with a GT-R, see the IT temp hasn't really moved - but that's because it's in a terrible position. You need to give a solid 10-15mins of airflow to get it to the actual reading.

Or install an aftermarket one and be surprised.

Yeah that's because you're using the factor IAT sensor which is on the plenum.. it's a slow lazy sensor.

I've got a GM IAT sensor right next to the cold side of the FMIC.. even on one hit in 2nd or 3rd I can see the temperature move 10 degrees... on the dyno it went from 22 degrees to 50 degrees when the car hit redline

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