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Wanted R32 Gtr Standard Instrument Cluster


400kwgtr
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    • I visually inspected the threads and they look intact and not so dirty, so I don’t understand why they wouldn’t thread in straight.    How would a chaser cause any damage? It’s intended to clean up the threads right? Even if it was cross threaded. That shouldn’t be the case though because the studs that were removed were OEM. The intake side had no issue. 
    • Well, try the new studs first, in case the US sourced studs are actually the problem. But given that the head is off the engine, at least it won't be too hard for someone to install helicoils if it turns out the holes are stuffed. You don't want to just run a tap or chaser through there if by doing so you leave behind 3/10ths of f**k all thread and the studs just pull straight out when you torque up the manifold nuts.
    • Hey everyone, I’m having a bit of a crisis and would like some advice.  I am in the process of assembling a head I had gotten back after NAPREC did their work. I had the exhaust studs removed prior to sending it to the machine shop, but afterwards when I tried threading in new studs, they wouldn’t go in straight. They would thread in smoothly by hand with almost no effort, but it doesn’t go in straight (noticeably circular motion) and eventually stops about halfway in. I had a couple go in perfectly straight with no effort, but when I removed them to try it again, they no longer when in straight and had the same issue as the others. The studs I’m using are M8x1.25, which I read was the standard. I did some research and decided to buy a chaser kit and new studs IEE NZ just in case. Has anyone experienced this? How screwed am I? Do I just need to run a chaser or tap and try again? Prefer a chaser because I heard taps can destroy existing threads.    Note: I also have a new set of intake studs that went straight in just fine that I bought from IEE NZ. I bought the exhaust studs from the U.S.
    • Photos. What you describe sounds impossible, given how the arms are assembled to the upright.
    • Hello everyone.  Since the last stint of turbo upgrades, the intake plumbing from air filter to turbo was made up of sections of ally pipe and silicone bends. This was done as the stock suction pipe was so restrictive, it was noticable on the dyno. The configuration and layout of the m35 engine bay meant that the intake plumbing was too close to the exhaust manifold, even in contact with the heat sheild in one spot. Apart from that i had to use the first section of the stock suction pipe bolted onto the turbo. Although the setup was much better than the stock suction pipe, it still caused some restriction and excesive heat into the incoming air. Its like trying to suck a thickshake through a thin soft drink straw, possible, but you gotta work really hard. Then add the heat...for those that may not know, the hotter the air, the further the oxygen molecules are apart and the less explosive a given area of air is when mixed with fuel, hence, why intercoolers work (compressing air makes the molecules move faster which also generates heat). Water injection and nitrous oxide injection also use the same principle.  As the M35 Stagea intake and suction pipe options on the market are very very limited, i decided to fabricate my own from the turbo to the filter and include one silicone joiner to allow for engine twist.  If anyone is interested while I'm in the process, I could manufacture a couple more but you gotta let me know soon. I'll post some pictures soon.
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