R32 Gts+t Daily/street

[CRSKmD]

While im waiting on seals and trying to work out hoses for the Neo I put my attention onto brakes. I had picked up a set of Brembos in average condition.

gave them a sand back and primer

same 3 layer pearl paint as seen on bay and covers

stickered up

sunlight shot

 

some comparison between the GTS-T 4 pots that came off. Interestingly the Rears have a smaller casting despite the larger piston, disc thickness and pad.

Pad comparions

 

In before "the 2k paint isn't heat proof" I am aware but should still hold up as well as the old rattlecan paint did over 4 years.

 unfortunately my rotors are still on the way in and the new pads are still a while off so now my car has strong Fast and Furious vibes #JesseAintGotNothingOnMe

[Wheezy]

I didn't think th rb20 valley cover lined up with th rb25 cam covers?

Is the neo different?

[CRSKmD]

12 hours ago, Wheezy said:

I didn't think th rb20 valley cover lined up with th rb25 cam covers?

Is the neo different?

6/8 line up 

the two middle ones on the drivers side don’t. If it bothers me I was gonna make an adapter tab up for them so all holes have fasteners 

[CRSKmD]

huge dump of pictures coming up.

after weighing up options for plenums including stock, RB26 ITB and modded stock i decided id go for a cut and shut as i wanted to keep the long runners and could not justify a plazmaman.

after cut and welded. no paint

the odd massive chamfered edge at the TB was because i originally wanted to have the TB flipped to run the cable around the outside. Like so

this was for two main reasons. 1. to give my self more clearance under the TB for the stock FPR and 2. to try and use the existing throttle cable. how ever it looked ugly AF.

flipping it gave me less room but still enough to clear everything... or so i thought (more on this later)

got the top section cut down and it now looked a lot nicer

cleaned up the fuel rail and it somehow has a neo chrome look now haha

runners cleaned up and rail installed

goes to bolt on the plenum and TB when suddenly

 

so i cut this de-icing bit of the TB off as it was no longer going to be used

but it still did not clear enough 

not wanting to grind back the fpr i relocated it

i used the fuel damper holder to remount the regulator and plumbed it up to have the flow as stock. 

what i think happened between the original clearance check and the final mounting is i checked without the Xpurt 1000cc injectors installed. once installed they were slightly longer than stock, could just be the rubbers being new which rotated the rail and pushed the fpr up enough to foul.

Edited March 12, 2018 by CRSKmD
removed link

[Ben C34]

That's way too tidy for a cut and shut!

[CRSKmD]

7 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

That's way too tidy for a cut and shut!

do you mean:
1. the motor is too clean to have a cut and shut and should have something else

or

2. the cut and shut job was well done

if 1. pls sponsor me a plazmaman

[Ben C34]

41 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

do you mean:
1. the motor is too clean to have a cut and shut and should have something else

or

2. the cut and shut job was well done

if 1. pls sponsor me a plazmaman

2.

 

You sadly have missed the sponsorship deal

[CRSKmD]

1 minute ago, Ben C34 said:

2.

 

You sadly have missed the sponsorship deal

awwwww. but cheers. i'm really happy with the result and for only $250

[CRSKmD]

while the motor was out the car i also went ahead and replaced the funky under plenum hoses with fresh ones

gave the accessories a scrub and a half to removed the 5mm thick layer of grime

motor is now ready to come off the stand. do the rear main seal, clutch and flywheel. Then drop it into the bay and scratch up all my nice paint

[CRSKmD]

first up the Auto spigot bush needed to be removed. i tried the hydraulic (grease or bread) technique but no luck. i think this works best with the manual ones

The method i ended up using thanks to R31 forums and Gavin from Garage 7

Items needed:

1xDyna bolt 20mm OD

1x big washer

1x decent weight that fits

Put the dynabolt into the auto bush and tap it in gently

tighten it up as much as possible 

remove nut slide over weight and washer. re attach nut

go to town using it as a slide hammer pulling the weight towards you. it took me a solid 10mins with the little weight i had but it came free. a heavier weight may work better.

new manual spigot bush soaking in oil then got put in, The rear main seal was also done at this time.

 

time for the motor to go in

motor in sunlight shot

bay starting to go back together with cleaned up washer bottles and radiator

Edited April 1, 2018 by CRSKmD

[Robzilla32]

Wow that engine bay is looking awesome and super clean

[CRSKmD]

7 hours ago, Robzilla32 said:

Wow that engine bay is looking awesome and super clean

thank you! i tried to do a clean up without going too overboard. i think i found a happy medium

[Jordy32]

Looks good, you must be excited!

How'd you go getting the engine into the bay with all that fresh paint there, always a little daunting!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

RB25 NEO > RB26

 

[CRSKmD]

1 hour ago, Jordy32 said:

Looks good, you must be excited!

How'd you go getting the engine into the bay with all that fresh paint there, always a little daunting!

yeah the end is looking closer now!
I did it with a hand, we carefully lowered it in. Did manage to bump against the firewall but that covered by the trim and out of sight anyway.

[CRSKmD]

13 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

RB25 NEO > RB26

 

yes but ITB wank factor haha

[CRSKmD]

After over 4 months my Project μ HC+ pads finally arrived. there was a series of delays on top of the long lead time.  For some reason the Rear pads got put on a boat and the fronts put on a plane... and then the rears came in first 

fronts installed with a quick clean of hardware

rears in

mounted with fresh DBA T3 rotors

[Jordy32]

Great pads, love mine

Shame about the lead time eh, did you order locally or from Japan?

[CRSKmD]

2 minutes ago, Jordy32 said:

Great pads, love mine

Shame about the lead time eh, did you order locally or from Japan?

 i had the same pads in my GTST Brakes. They only would have done >1000kms before the brembos popped up... worked minto

Yeah ordered locally (HC800) but they were out of stock so the HC+ had to come from Japan. annoying but car wasn't driving so   ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

You'll find the HC+ are better than the HC800, although all the Australian resellers will say "they're the same", yet when you look at the HC+ it is made in Japan and the HC800, well are made in Thailand

And yes, the HC+ perform better too. Have used both HC800 and HC+ so yeah, good choice on the HC+