Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts+t Daily/street


Recommended Posts

40 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

The dedication and sheer speed!

Mine has been on the hoist for 2 weeks, fuel system half arsed and yeah, Cbf lol

next track day is 20th august... need to start and finish the fuel system by then. probably should upgrade the rear sway bar to match the front too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Purely to spite Ben C34.

Prior to the August 20th track day i did a basic fuel system upgrade.
lPOVKx5.jpg
L33Nesr.jpg

Made it to the track day
first lap out and came in the check tyre pressures when i noticed there was oil absolutely everywhere.
I traced the leak to the catch can vent.


hBSugAT.jpg
 

I emptied the catch can from the drain but only ~200ml came out so something was obviously a miss with the baffling. Without much time we decide to remove it and upgrade it to a dual HKS and Nismo system

khUzNRT.jpg

InfjtK4.jpg
 

This solved the oil issue and by the end of the day there was hardly any oil in the catch cans.

However, even with the baffled gated Hi-Octane sump I was still hitting engine protection due to low oil pressure.

The logs showed that oil pressure was now stable but capped off at around 50psi whereas before with the stock sump it would increase to around 90psi but drop to 15psi.

After some research it seemed like the Oil pickup may not be sealing to the block resulting in air being sucked in at the top rather than oil at the bottom as would the path of least resistance. When I had fitted the extended pickup to suit the new sump I had reused the old gasket style seal which the later model AWD RB’s have. But the extended pickup was of the older style which used an O-Ring seal.
kwy5113.jpg
JQhJAmt.jpg
 

So with a brand new genuine O-Ring seal acquired we got the car back on the hoist and went through the sump removal process which as you may recall from last time required the gearbox, clutch and flywheel to come off to get to the rear 4 10mm bolts.

New O-Ring seal fitted and back together went the car

c81fZe3.jpg

this should fix the issue right? As the only thing that had changed from when it had good pressure but poor oil control was the baffled sump and extended pickup…

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope basically no change even had fresh 20W50 ULX110 oil which may I add required 3 bottles to do a change. The oil pressure at idle was low around 20psi and maxed out at 45-50 psi by 4000rpm.

We were thinking that potentially the Oil pressure relief on the oil pump was jammed. So again off came the sump, gearbox, clutch and flywheel. But to ensure if the pump relief was jammed I took off the pump as a complete unit rather than just removing the relief while leaving the pump in the car. Which as you may know required the accessory belts and timing belt to come off as well.

Oil pump off and relief shown. I removed the spring to check the relief valves range of motion and it was as smooth as butter with no scoring.

FF31fAm.jpg

But as you can see the pump its self was rooted

Mri0vgK.jpg
 

There should not be any of those concentric grooves some of which were easily 2mm deep. So a brand new N1 oil pump was ordered.

while waiting for the pump to arrive I noticed that the Turbo oil drain rubber line had split
9f5X6iq.jpg
 

So this was replaced with a new hose.
lDaESQm.jpg

New N1 pump arrived
ixEZgJs.jpg

This went in along with some new genuine cam seals to be safe.
and bam here we go
yuMhUXB.png
over 90 psi of oil pressure on idle.

so after four sump and gearbox removals we made it and time to chase that 1:19 at Mallala

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Yes please, it's a neo now isn't it? Solid head should have less issues. Did you put a restrictor in the block before you put engine in?

Yeah Neo now never had any issue with the RB20 but was also only Nistune so not as much safety as the Link

Nah stock long motor have not opened it and let the magic out as yet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

HOLY SHIT, we have the same scoring marks!!!!!

Did you use Spool Import gears too?

 

yeah wild!

Nah just stock gears i considered going upgraded gears with the new pump but figured a brand new N1 should be fine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

out for the first track day where i was able to more or less have an issue free outing.
and i manage to get my 1:19 finally! 
t43q4d0.jpg
cergHsa.jpg

I also generously provided some aero parts and a window banner for my Mates MPS (FYI i have a big ass sticker cutter now if anyone wants stuff)
XhwSYrj.jpg

all was going well until the very last lap when my AC pulley decided to escape. taking out my clutch can on the way
9Op2gSf.jpg
jAt8ccv.jpg

but hey drove there beat my PB and drove home

  • Like 5
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

out with the old
5lTnZLW.jpg

in with the new
1w82t6D.jpg

say what you will about GKtech fans but this was one of the original ones and didn't explode when a pulley went through it and was still good enough to get me home

also found out why my car was getting slower towards the end of the last track day
a9qtPpl.jpg
MUeMCUe.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

I have found genuine nissan T3 gaskets to be excellent quality and only about $30 a go.

kinda like.. this one?
fresh OEM nissan T3 gasket

hFZvlxJ.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • well, to check fuel pressure all you need is a gauge and a 8mm joiner with a gauge port in the inlet fuel line; if it stalls at idle when hot you can open the bonnet and check pressure at that time; the fuel pump is a potential cause for what you are describing but it could also be wiring to the pump getting hot. You haven't mentioned that the factory fuel flow control on the fuel pump earth is removed. So either way, it is worth running a suitably sized and fused wire from the battery to pin 30 in a new relay in the boot.  Use the ECU trigger wire into the standard fuel relay to pin 86. Earth relay pin 85 and the Fuel Pump negative (nice big wire for the latter too). Run relay pin 86 pin to Fuel Pump +. That will remove multiple possible fuel pump wiring issues in a 30+ year old car
    • I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.
    • I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
×
×
  • Create New...