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ssxRicho

Track Day Requirements

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Track Day Requirements Signing Up

- Forums, FB, Newsletter

- Meecams website

- Club websites

- You will be asked to provide a time for groping purposes

Personal

- CAMS Club Membership

- CAMS L2S License

- Clothes ankle to wrist

- Helmet AS 1698, SNELL or other listed in the CAMS Manual Schd D

Car

- Fire extinguisher (3 yrs)

o Metal bracket, bolted to the car

- 150mm blue battery tri-angle

- Brake lights working

- Brakes working

- Throttle returns

- No leaks under the bonnet

- Nothing loose under the bonnet

- Nothing loose in the car

o Glove box

o Centre console

o Boot

- Battery secure

- Battery sealed

- Harness / seat belt is good condition

- Dashboard and door cards

- Tyres that aren’t going to explode

On The Day

- Find a spot to park your car

o Sandown at the back of the pit building or hire a garage ($80)

o Winton in one of the free carports

o Phillip Island in the centre of the pit complex or hire a garage ($170)

- Go to the sign in area with you Club Membership & CAMS License

- Un-pack your car

- Go to the scrutineering area

- Go to the Drivers briefing

- Wait for you group to be called

- Line up in the pit

- Have fun and come in on the chequered flag

- When you come in from your session do not park the car, do a few cool down laps of the pits. This brings your brakes and fluids temps down.

- Do not pull your handbrake on after the session. Your rotors are super hot and the drum or pads will cause build-up or warping on the rotor. Use a wheel chock.

Technical Information

This is a guide and you should always alter these to your car and driving style.

Tyres

Street Tyres

These tyres have a softer sidewall for smoother feel on the road. If you lower the pressure too far they will come off the wheels!

36-40PSI Hot

Sticky Street Tyres (AD08/RS3/R1R/123/KU36/RSR)

These tyres have a harder sidewall than a normal road tyre, some much harder than others. They are not prone to rolling off the wheels and pressure is more about maintaining the heat range of the surface and through the caucus of the tyre. Maintaining the heat range, gaining the maximum contact patch is what these tyres are about.

AD08/RS3

Not under 30PSI Hot

Not above 34PSI Hot

Others

Not under 34PSI Hot

Not above 38PSI Hot

R compound (aka semi's)

The sidewall on these type are tyres are 'rock hard' and will stay on the wheel with very little pressure. They however, like the sticky road tyres operate within a heat range, so pressure is important in maintaining the heat range and maximising the contact patch.

Not under 26PSI

Not above 34PSI

Some R compound tyres will operate effectively with higher pressure under certain circumstances (AO48/R888/NT01)

Not under 36PSI

Not above 40PSI

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Make sure you have oil (Simon hehe), coolant, brake fluid etc.

Street tyres have decent pressure, not running them at 30psi so the sidewalls just flop over.

Leave handbrake off after a session, even cruise around the car park to let everything cool off a bit

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why leave the handbrake off? whats that all about?

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Some cars (Not, for example GTR's) have pads similar to the normal brake pads the handbrake works off. Pulling it on when you have hot rotors doesn't do the rotor much good. A lot of Nissans have an old school internal drum style handbrake and it really doesn't matter so much.

But yeah drive a couple of hundred metres slowly to nowhere before you park up. Helps get the worst of the heat out of the rotors etc.

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It brake rotors are hot they expand...
When the cool down they'll contract back to normal size, if you pull straight back into the pits without any cooldown and pull up the handbrake and then let it cool, the rotor will cool down unevenly (as some parts of the metal are in contact with the brake shoe, some parts are sitting under the brake pad / caliper, etc). Uneven expansion / contracting can cause the rotor to crack with a nice loud PINGCRACK sound, and thats the end of your day at the track.

So if you've been smashing a lot of hard laps, and don't get a nice long cooldown lap... always go out the back and down some slow laps of the carpark.

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- You will be asked to provide a time for groping purposes

Before I specify a time, I'd like to know who is to be groped :-)

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One that almost screwed me over at Phillip Island: Scrutineer told me that dirt bike helmets, even if AUS/SNELL approved, will be banned by CAMS shortly, as the extra length around the chin area is apparently a massive hazard (bullshit), but anyway, instead of running a $400 dollar dirt bike helmet, I'll go buy myself a cheap arse $100 dollar AMX helmet that's motorsport approved YAY CAMS!!

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Very useful info! Answered a lot of my questions.

Richo, can you please pin this thread?

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Glad to see that BS with having secondary bonnet restraint device is gone.

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Glad to see that BS with having secondary bonnet restraint device is gone.

Why would it be gone? And why is it BS? I personally am glad that my bonnet won't come flying up and destroy itself / windscreen / roof / visibility at 200+km/h down a straight.

The majority of cars that we run on the track (Skylines, etc) DO have a secondary restraint from factory (1. Pulling the in-cabin release, 2. Pulling the under-bonnet hook) so we pass this safety standard without doing anything. Lots of older cars dont, so if anything goes wrong it'll be a huge issue for them on the track

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I think when the rule first came out, they didnt recognise OEM latch systems as 2-point. Lots of people used to have to put steel rope through the hook on the bonnet in order to pass.

I could be wrong, and either the scruitineers or people with steel rope were spanners.

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I did, believe I've still got the d-lock and cable in the bottom of the tool tray for just those occasions

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Actually yeah, now that I think about it I remember a couple of years ago there were a few guys I know with 33's who had some wire loops and a carabeana hooking them together as their secondary...

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Actually yeah, now that I think about it I remember a couple of years ago there were a few guys I know with 33's who had some wire loops and a carabeana hooking them together as their secondary...

Yeah, that was me because scrutineers didn't recognize OEM latching as suitable, as Leroy Peterson already noted, so had to run that PITA wire loops as my tertiary. It was just a hassle to install and always made me worried if I have an under bonnet fire if I'd be able to disconnect it in a hurry to use the fire extinguisher.

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Yeah that rule went out as of 2014 IIRC.

Thank god too, very dumb as stated.

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It was just a hassle to install and always made me worried if I have an under bonnet fire if I'd be able to disconnect it in a hurry to use the fire extinguisher.

As much as you'd hate it, believe the idea is not to open the bonnet (same principle as opening fire doors) aim the extinguisher through gaps and vents. And walk away when it is set as hot gas enclosed spaces/containers tend to go bang

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As much as you'd hate it, believe the idea is not to open the bonnet (same principle as opening fire doors) aim the extinguisher through gaps and vents. And walk away when it is set as hot gas enclosed spaces/containers tend to go bang

This. Should never open the bonnet if there is a fire. Understandable that you can't really get the extinguisher in there without opening. So it's a catch 22.

My local track still has the rule of a secondary bonnet restraint. Like a piece of wire or anything suitable.

The rule really needs to be enforced on fiberglass bonnets as we all know somebody's who's has opened at the worst of times.

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It was just a hassle to install and always made me worried if I have an under bonnet fire if I'd be able to disconnect it in a hurry to use the fire extinguisher.

I almost made that mistake at Sandown once. The only thing that stopped me from flinging open the bonnet, which would have sent in a massive burst of fresh oxygen and flared up the flames, was a secondary bonnet strap I forgot I had on there. So I poked the fire extinguisher through the gap towards the exhaust manifold and let her rip.. luckily the fire extinguisher did its job. It does make you wonder if the minimum required 1kg extinguisher is enough for bigger fires, but very thankful I had one ready to go! Secondary bonnet strap is a good thing.

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