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Educated Guess At The Final Tune Results


Nismo 3.2ish

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tbh... your locksmith analogy isn't correct... it's more aligned with software, you pay for Windows 7, Microsoft doesn't give you free access to mess with the code to make changes and render their product unusable. anyway...

i'm newer to all this than even you, but is it possible when they've taken it off the dyno something wasn't reconnected/tightened/untightened? if you consider the symptom of spluttering over 6,000kms (and disregarding the tune) what might cause this? coils? boost leak?

Just a late night snack...

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He is at Gosford and a couple of blokes say he is pretty good and tunes a bit on the safe side and that is OK for me.Has a RWD Dyno , are these OK for AWD cars, guess so ?

At the moment I just want this tune to work properly, so I can drive the car and see if it is what I want before thinking of changing it :)

RWD dyno isn't an issue, he will just rip out the front prop shaft
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tbh... your locksmith analogy isn't correct... it's more aligned with software, you pay for Windows 7, Microsoft doesn't give you free access to mess with the code to make changes and render their product unusable. anyway...

i'm newer to all this than even you, but is it possible when they've taken it off the dyno something wasn't reconnected/tightened/untightened? if you consider the symptom of spluttering over 6,000kms (and disregarding the tune) what might cause this? coils? boost leak?

Just a late night snack...

Could be as simple as a loose connection or hose off .

I have extended my stay in Sydney to take the car to them on Monday morning before my drive home, I am worried about making it worse before they can have a chance to have a look .I know there was NO problem on the Dyno and they did heaps of runs ?

But I think you have to sign something when you use Microsoft's products saying you understand what their user policy is before you can use it in the first place and you cannot continue unless you tick the box. BUT I am not too sure about any of it.

I do not mind not being able to use their tune, as long as another one can be installed and over ride the tune I do not want, that is if I decide to go elsewhere in the future ????.

If this was possible, I wonder if you can swap or change back to the old tune if you find out the new tune is not as good as the first one, getting expense now, haha

I am just trying to find out what my options are in the future, hate being in the dark on a subject I know nothing about :/

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while I'm not OK with what the shop charges, there is no doubt they are among the best in the business. Take it back and ask them to get it running properly. If the issue relates to their tune or any work they have done, it is their responsibility to fix at their cost.

Of course, if they convince you it was something else that would be at your cost.

And yes, PFC has always had a password option, and almost nobody uses it. I would discuss with them to have them remove it. A tune is just fuel and timing and there will be no magical intellectual property they have to protect, and of course if they say they are worried about you tuning it and blaming them they can use the built in tune compare tool to make sure your current tune is the same one it left the shop with; they will of course have kept a copy. It will cost you substantially more to take it to anyone else to tune from scratch if you need the tune tidied up for any reason.

One last point; there is absolutely nothing a tuner can do to increase response once the mechanical package is in place. They just get to choose how close to optimal power they make at each map point, weighing it against the risk of pinging and killing the engine.

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All good Tuners pwd protect the ECU.

Most will give you the pwd on request but all liability is null an void at the same time.

Surely you can understand why this is. (Zebra said as much earlier in the thread)

When your tuner plugs into your Haltech ecu and if it has changed it will provide a warning msg.

You would think this would be enough for them - it is not.

A lot of people when they blow their engine up blame the build or the tune. And they can be spot on too....

Some do it purely to protect their so called "secrets". Which they may have spent a lot of time or R+D getting it spot on. or they could have nothing special and don't want anyone to know that.

Wait your warranty period on the build and then do as you please.

Woops - Duncan's got it while I was typing.

Mostly it's about keeping your business.

Edited by Sinista32
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Read up on it, some say there is a little difference in the dyno reading but nothing really. Who cares it the tune is a good one :)

For tuning purposes 2wd or awd doesn't matter. The numbers will be a little different but they are just numbers.

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while I'm not OK with what the shop charges, there is no doubt they are among the best in the business. Take it back and ask them to get it running properly. If the issue relates to their tune or any work they have done, it is their responsibility to fix at their cost.

Of course, if they convince you it was something else that would be at your cost.

And yes, PFC has always had a password option, and almost nobody uses it. I would discuss with them to have them remove it. A tune is just fuel and timing and there will be no magical intellectual property they have to protect, and of course if they say they are worried about you tuning it and blaming them they can use the built in tune compare tool to make sure your current tune is the same one it left the shop with; they will of course have kept a copy. It will cost you substantially more to take it to anyone else to tune from scratch if you need the tune tidied up for any reason.

One last point; there is absolutely nothing a tuner can do to increase response once the mechanical package is in place. They just get to choose how close to optimal power they make at each map point, weighing it against the risk of pinging and killing the engine.

All Good, I think the car is running pretty good, it has good response since the build and nice to drive. Gave it a little touch up until it played up and I think it will be a very good car for all sorts of driving. The power is very linear and comes on early.

My idea of what the car would do after the build fell a bit short but I am happy with the result :)

I understand about the tune being protected and do not mind having a password protection on it but I want the password. As long as I can have a different tuner put a new tune in at some time in the future "if I want to" I understand that once someone else touches their tune the warranty goes out the window.

As you blokes know I live a fair distance from Sydney and I might find a new shop closer to me in the future and would like to have the password "OR" know that a separate tune can be done without accessing the original tune??

This below is just a matter of interest, it might be a silly question, but not the first one I have asked on SAU :)

CAN THERE BE 2 DIFFERENT TUNES ON YOUR ECU ?? If so can you switch tunes if you feel like it ?

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All good Tuners pwd protect the ECU.

Most will give you the pwd on request but all liability is null an void at the same time.

Surely you can understand why this is. (Zebra said as much earlier in the thread)

When your tuner plugs into your Haltech ecu and if it has changed it will provide a warning msg.

You would think this would be enough for them - it is not.

A lot of people when they blow their engine up blame the build or the tune. And they can be spot on too....

Some do it purely to protect their so called "secrets". Which they may have spent a lot of time or R+D getting it spot on. or they could have nothing special and don't want anyone to know that.

Wait your warranty period on the build and then do as you please.

Woops - Duncan's got it while I was typing.

Mostly it's about keeping your business.

I have a good tuner.

My haltech is not password protected.

I go back because I appreciate their good work.

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Also, coughing in higher RPM, could be a dud coil pack(that's why new parts generally have warranty).

Could be a fouled plug.

Could be a slightly larger gap.

Either way, it will be sorted.

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Also, coughing in higher RPM, could be a dud coil pack(that's why new parts generally have warranty).

Could be a fouled plug.

Could be a slightly larger gap.

Either way, it will be sorted.

Yeah mate, could be a simple thing and I am not really worried. I will take the car to them on Monday and I am sure they will sort it out, these blokes know what they are doing , all good :)

The water thing seems to be sorted, no more water lose, they said they could not find anything wrong and I wonder if it was leaking from the bleeder, that was the only thing I noticed where there could have been a problem and the only thing that was touched to make any difference??

But it is nice to drive, Paul wants me to run it on 85, but we all know he is not a petrol head , but for me, getting the stuff is the problem :(

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