Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a S1 R33 with a S1 RB25DET. Recently I did a compression test on it and it says low on compression. So I bought another 25 head which I plan to swap over.

However upon taking it to a Head Shop today, they have stated the head may be a NEO 25. On the exhaust side of this head it says 5L83 and I'm just wondering if anyone can confirm this is indeed a NEO?

Also, is this going to now not be compatible with my S1 RB25 block? Just because this new head is straight and in good condition.

Cheers for any help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456055-rb25det-head-query/
Share on other sites

wouldn't it be easy to tell if its solid lifters or not ben?? they have smaller runners too don't they, wonder what the difference is there....

The runner size difference is minimal, unless its the na head, which is noticeably smaller.

The lifters are pretty obvious but the vct allen head grub screw rather than bolts and lack of vct oil drain on the side of the head is obvious from a distance.

  • Like 1

Yes it is a NEO head. The coilpack bolts straight onto the head in the NEO as with the non NEO engines are mounted on a bracket which are then bolted on by 12mm bolts.

Correct. This is how I was able to tell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...