Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Vic Wasteland Thread - 15.0


R31Nismoid
 Share

Recommended Posts

I can understand him wanting to turn his caveat emptor risk into mine - once he's done his home garage swap and given them his speed bump test or cleared his ride height defect before inevitably returning them to me. So I inherit his risk, a lot of time wasting and no sale.

Condition should be a decent giveaway by looking at them to ascertain mileage or treatment and chances of them functioning as they should. But there's a reason second hand gear sells for half of new - I wouldnt buy shocks with any other assumption than the possibility of needing a revalve and factoring that into cost. Same with second hand fuel injectors and cleaning/replacing o rings, filters etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you imagine if he had any car with no local coilovers available? Buying 2nd hand coilovers from Japan is less than a coin flip chance... A lot of importers won't even bother because so many are shagged or the collars are seized.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might give FB groups a go

Last time I did that through Leesh's account and the first two buyers were "Send me your address" and the atypical "Do you still have this?" followed by no response. I assume the latter is people scoping out their options and then choosing one other than yours.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Selling stuff are the breast.


Selling stuff is a pita. That's why I still have a ported 4g63 head with 1mm oversize valves/Springs/ti retainers sitting in the cupboard and a high flow evo turbo.

So much can't be arsed.
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2019 at 8:47 PM, TiTAN said:

 


Selling stuff is a pita. That's why I still have a ported 4g63 head with 1mm oversize valves/Springs/ti retainers sitting in the cupboard and a high flow evo turbo.

So much can't be arsed.

Selling once, selling twice.... SOLD!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/17/2019 at 7:10 AM, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

IMG_7687.jpg

It's here again

You've aged, welcome to the dark side..

Insert that quote about being conservative at age 20 and having no heart, or liberal at age 40 and having no brain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/17/2019 at 11:39 AM, Kinkstaah said:

image.png.fc4221567555e3215cffeee083a4fa35.png

 

cool, i'll vote for

uh

uh...

You appear to be a socialist only slightly intolerant of gays and change, comrade

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • So….. I’ve replaced all the coils and made sure I have a spark by fitting a spark plug to one of the new coils and cranking the engine. I’ve ensured I have fuel by removing what I assume is the ‘return to tank’ fuel line and cranking the engine. So I have a spark and fuel and the car still won’t run. Any ideas? may be time to get an auto electrician out! 
    • EFI Solutions aka Taarks have a great kit just for that. Better to have facts/data before making a decision. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/exhaust-pressure-sensor-pulse-damper-emap
    • I'm not sure why you removed the sound deadener???  Don't bother with DIY remedies... this is how you can do it properly. For the lightly stained areas, just stick to a fine grade wet sand paper....and then paint over once the stain is gone. For the worst areas...especially the pitted ones...you just need to sand the rust in the localised spot working down from a heavier grit to medium grit wet sandpaper, which will get most of the rust off. It's just localised rust from the spare wheel touching the boot. Don't go to town on sanding the whole boot...not needed! Try to avoid sanding the seam sealer etc (obviously) After the rust spots are down to bare metal - use a fine brush dipped in "RUST DEOXIDISER"...and carefully apply this to the little rust areas. It's important the chemical you use is DEOXIDISER. After applying that, let it sit for a while and obviously wipe off with prepsol before it dries, and repeat 3-4 times. If you go to a panel shop they will probably be able to sell you some - as the trade products are a shitload stronger than retail products. After deoxidising the rust, scuff the surrounding paint with red scotch brite....& then you are ready to apply etch primer and then paint the matte gray colour on. Mask up the surrounding area using tape & paper..... as you don't need to paint the whole boot, just blend it in and keep the repair as small as possible. Spray can paint or spray gun depending on your level of expertise will be fine. Probably will cost you about $100-$150 in materials.  
    • Interesting. The 30/900 looks right on paper but weather it gives me enough headroom is the question. I dont have a pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold so I won't know if I have a restriction unfortunately.
    • It depends if your current turbine is a restriction or not, if it is go up to the 35, it’s it’s not then stick the 30. Also the g30 turbine wheel will flow more then your gt30 one either way you go the compressor wheel is going walk away from your current turbo 
×
×
  • Create New...