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Thoughts On This R34 Gt-r?


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OK more pics.

Underside looks reasonable. I also spot nismo pillar garnishes.

He was showing me the centre trim wrap as I spotted a poorly done job in a previous photo, he said he;s now re-done it. If need be I can replace those parts but I'm not totally against it.

That exhaust looks loud 0_0

Couldn't spot any obvious signs of rear impact either (given boot lock difference mentioned).

He mentioned replacing the rotors and pads as the old rotors had a small groove and he didn't see the point in machining them when new ones were so cheap (they are only RDA rotors but Project Mu pads). He said I could also have the old pads which were nearly new.

Oh and he was happy with my comment of the asking price if it included ALL spares (inc the motor). A spool rb30 rebuild kit starts at 2k, the machining was 2k, so surely the assembled short motor has to be worth 3-4k.

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Edited by ActionDan
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I'm getting a lot of comments on Facebook (where I have a wanted to buy) and from people offering me there cars that there's no way in hell that I'll get anything remotely good for under 60k and that all cheaop GT-Rs are cheao because they are dodgy/crashed etc.

How rife is that within this market?

I was suspect about the respray hiding damage and will never really be able to tell, but if the k's are genuine and the car presents nicely etc, what else am I missing?

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Based on everything I have seen and what you are getting seems like a good deal.

Yes that exhaust is loud.

However, pictures only tell so much.

Things to consider with this car,

The standard turbos need to be binned!

By selling the spares you will basically fund a replacement fuel setup and turbos for a daily 300ish kW.

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I would just sell them off, i wouldn't keep them. It has -5s

It seems to have a decent enough fuel setup already and is support 340 or so rwkw.

My goal would be to sell the spares and leave the money sitting there for a stroker purely for ease of fitment as the 30 requires a fair bit of fabrication to work.

Edited by ActionDan
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Seems good from pictures and information you are being supplied is good. People tend to avoid most/some of the questions you have thrown his way.

If you can't fault the car when you get up close and inspect well, then the price he is offering is good. What he has valued the car at could be completely different to what another seller believes it is worth. The important thing to take from it is that the history check from Japan will identify any issues before import and you can usually work out if a crash/impact has occurred while here.

Personally if I was in the market for a car like this, the price he is asking is good, tasteful mods already and some spare stuff you can use or sell off. Take the plunge and personally look at it yourself and then be ready to make the call when you are there.

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I do, and limited use, and stored in shed not garage, behind locked gates etc. Rating 1, all that jazz.

As for the car, I'm inspecting on the 22-23rd or so, will leave deposit if I like what I see.

I'm trying hard not to get excited so I don't get disappointed.

Already pricing NACA duct through Terry's guy.

Working out if I clear coat the wheels (I like gloss) or just sell for something gloss with better fitment (they seem a little tame offset wise).

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I applaud your plans for the car but just as you said, decide that once you're holding the keys.

Hope this is the one for you but just time wasted planning if its not I guess.

Not to digress too much but seen your threads about 33/34v35, was dollars the factor in picking the 34 or otherwise?

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I would only take a 35 if the price was right, I thought I had one lined up but it appears to have fallen through and the potential seller is no longer responding (cold feet perhaps or maybe it was easier for him to trade the car in as he said he might).

I only considered that as it was a great price, If I had to buy at market value, it would be hard for me to justify 90k+ sitting in the shed getting the rare drive so I backed out of that option. Rare because I have a 2.5yr old and am very reluctant to put a baby sit in any GT-R I buy and damage the rear seats.

Then it came time to choose between the 33 and 34, the big issue there is head vs heart. I owned a Series 2 R33 V-Spec, loved it, but always wanted a 34 purely for the interior and exterior aesthetics. I know they are line ball performance wise.

For 20k less I could have a 33 that's fully built, and that's a hard option to pass up knowing the rebuild costs of a blown RB26.

Bottom line though, as this is a buy it and keep it car, I've always REALLY wanted an R34, in that colour, with black wheels.

IF we say I can make 3-4k on the spares, surely more but let's keep it low. That becomes a fairly nice 34, series 2 no less, for 49-50k, that seems like good value.

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Yeah theyre priced around double the R34 GTR plus transfer fees/insurance higher also.

Value wise, it's definitely priced well and with all the additional parts you could sell off. There are almost as few r34 gtr's for sale these days as r32 gtrs at least on carsales.

See how things weigh up, I'm a technical bloke, I buy with my head and build it with my heart.

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Oh and have any of you gone through the process of adding the v-spec sensors to the car (exhaust and intake temp).

I've read this can be done by buying the physical sensors then putting the MFD into diag mode.

Alternatively, has anyone fitted the Nismo option MFD PCD as I will defs be running more than 1.2bar of boost.

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