Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Recommended Posts

This is my first DIY so constructive criticism is always appreciated. After much searching online and failing, I thought I’ll write up how to change an RB25DET accessory belts. That is the Air-Con, Power-steering and Alternator belts. If this DIY already exists, all good here is another one.

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I try and work things out using my own knowledge and other peoples DIY to please don’t blame me if anything goes wrong.

Belts I used:
Alternator: Gates Micro-VAT 4PK850
Air-Con: Gates Micro-VAT 4PH915
Power Steering: Gates Micro-VAT 3PK835

Meaning of the numbers:

4: Belt has 4 grooves, this cannot change in the replacement belt
PK: Not sure, don’t think its important
850: Length of belt, you need roughly the same.
All pulley systems have lots of room for adjustment for size of belt so you don’t have to have the exact same one. Have a look at what is currently installed and get something similar in size.

LET THE DIY BEGIN!

Firstly, you need to figure out which belt/s are worn. For me, when I had the steering at full lock with a cold engine, I would get belt squeal as well as when I turned the Air-Con. Therefore I decided to change those, as well as the alternator while I was at it.

When you open the engine bay, you will see your belts such as the pics below.

5_zpsy2qn5xnv.jpg

The the second step is to loosen the alternator pulley which is found on the left side of the engine bay, when facing the car. This will be done by loosening the bolt numbered 1 and then turning bolt number 2. You can then push the alternator towards the engine and loosen it.

2_zpswzcjoiqs.jpg

The next step is the removal of the fan. Using a 10mm spanner, undo the 4 bolts. It helps using WD-40 and then holding a pulley while applying force onto it. Once they are undone, remove the fan.

Once the fan is removed, you need to remove the belt at the very front first. This is the power steering. I believe. To remove this, loosen bolt 3 and then turn bolt 4 to bring the nut away from the holding plate. You can then push the pulley system and loosen the belt. Once loose, the belt can be slid off.

3_zps9ojrbzo8.jpg

The next step is the air-con belt. To remove this, you need to get under the car and remove the underbody protector by removing the 6 screws. Once removed, you will see another bolt near the middle of the car which needs to be loosened. This will allow the tensioner to move and loosen that belt. With the bolt loose, push the tensioner. This might be really tight so use WD-40 and/or a hammer on the block circled, NOT THE PULLEY ITSELF, to move it up. Once this has moved enough, you can pull that belt off too.

4_zpsqonvyfxu.jpg

The last belt to be removed will be the alternator belt. Since you have already loosen it, you can just slide that off too.

Once your belts are off, you can just need to reverse the process and put them back on.

20150928_170135_HDR_zpsaguonbdv.jpg

First alternator belt, don’t tighten this. Next the Air-con belt. Tighten aircon belt tension bolt enough so that belt twists to 90 degrees and nothing more, don’t re-install the under-body protector yet. Install power steering belt and again tighten it so you can just twist it to 90 degrees and tighten the other holding bolt. Next re-install the fan. Once the fan is tight, you can tighten the alternator belt to the same tension.

Start up the car and listen for any noises. Any screeches means the belt it too loose. Power steering will screech at full lock so hold it at full lock for a few seconds. Air-con should screech as soon as you start it if it is loose. Alternator should screech at any point when the car is on.

If any screeches are heard, tighten the corresponding belt using bolts 2, 4 or 5.

Once all belts are tight, you can reinstall the underbody protection as we left it off in case we need to tighten the air-con belt.

Go for a drive and test it out. If any screeching is heard, tighten the belt which causes. Avoid belt squeal eliminators as they are only temporary fixes which make more of a mess than solve the problem.

Final Step: Enjoy your screech-less belts and pulleys :action-smiley-069:!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Nice write up - I looked for a guide ages ago when I did mine and couldn't find any so I just thought stuff it and ended up working it out. A guide would have been nice back then :)

Part of the reason I wrote one up. I thought someone somewhere would find it useful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey man, to tighten the alternator belt do I loosen bolt 1 and adjust tightness with bolt 2? Which way am I suppose to be turning bolt 2 to tighten?

Hey,

Sorry for late reply, I was overseas. Yeah you need to loosen bolt 1 so that the whole alternator moves then turn bolt 2. You want the whole alternator moving away from the middle of the engine so from memory and looking at the picture, it should be to the left to tighten, therefore towards the cabin of the car. It moves enough with each turn to be able to see if its tightening or loosening.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey,

Sorry for late reply, I was overseas. Yeah you need to loosen bolt 1 so that the whole alternator moves then turn bolt 2. You want the whole alternator moving away from the middle of the engine so from memory and looking at the picture, it should be to the left to tighten, therefore towards the cabin of the car. It moves enough with each turn to be able to see if its tightening or loosening.

Thanks mate, yeah took me a while to figure out, was turning both bolts like a mad man and nothing was happening. Had to remove my FMIC piping to get a better view and realised bolt 2 moves the alternator in the slot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • If I was in 'merica I would get this new goodness delivered in a crate and bash it in the hole  
    • They don't survive abuse bwith big power and a lot of AWD, but 285kw should not be an issue. I'd be looking for any sloppyiness between the driveshaft at the xfer case all the way to the front hubs, I think something is moving that is causing additional shock and the diff is the weak link
    • The alternator was replaced because I've had another Nissan do the same thing. Dash and all accessories go out, but car still turns over and runs. Verdict was a bad alternator. I took the same approach with this one only instead of sticking with the same 80-90 amp alternator I upgraded it to a 140 amp.  That's the problem with owning pre-owned cars. You never know what the previous owner did/hacked up. I figured this would be the along the lines of the replies I'd get though. Thanks for the help.  I'm open to other suggestions or recommendations. I appreciate the help in advance. 
    • So..... I have a s15 Silvia that we converted awd by chopping up a gts-4 shell..  Car makes about 500hp to the wheels...  Cars fitted with a  twin disc spec clutch and the awd is controlled by a ets pro..  Awd works perfect... Launched the car couple of times while the awd controller was in auto mode and all was fine.. Launched the car manual mode full awd  front diff survived 2 launch.. Replaced the spider gears that were damaged launched the car again and still managed to strip the spider gears again..    At this point I'm looking at getting a os giken lsd....  I've never heard of these diff breaking this easily.. At the time of launch the car was down on boost only making around 380hp....  The diff front and back ratio are the same.... Can something else be causing the gears to break so easily or I'm I just having bad luck with 2 worn out differential 
    • I found their services poor 1. on a few occasions they were unable to locate my work address, unlike every other courier service 2. they had some items listed for delivery that day, but item was not delivered for weeks 3. I had to head into their distribution center on 2 occasions and pick them up from there 4. items have been returned to sender a. Couldn't find address b. They never called to contact number supplied c. Claimed item was delivered, only for me to find that the item was returned to sender d. Claimed the item was delivered when it wasn't, claimed courier had the item signed for, but when questioned and we asked for evidence of this, it turned out, after a day or two, they found the item, to which I had to head into their distribution center  Opinions may vary 
×
×
  • Create New...