Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks, my R32 GTR seems to have a squeaky noise coming from under the hood when engine is cold. I can't pin point where that noise comes from due to the cooling fan noise, but I would guess it's a loose drive belt.

I am really new to R32 GTR (I guess most of us in the States are). The engine is completely stock, and from what I can see there doesn't appear to be any easy way to adjust any of the drive belts. The power steering belt appears to require removal of air filter box and turbo charge pipe. The alternator belt appears to require the removal of upper fan shroud and upper radiator hose. The A/C compressor belt, well, I am not even sure it can be adjusted without putting the car on jacks.

Any tips or advises will be greatly appreciated!

David

Remove the plastic windage tray, things are more accessible from below.

Aircon is the easiest of them all. Tensioner is looking at you, lock nut and adjuster.

For power steer and alternator, I find 12mm ratchet spanner works the best.

I see. Sounds like putting the car on jack stands and adjust all 3 belts from bottom is the way to do it.

Before you do anything start the car and squirt some water on one pulley at a time see which one makes the noise stop.

I have not heard this trick before! I sure will give it a try.

With a GTR, you need access from below for most tasks.

As for identifying belt noise, it's not that hard.

You can cycle the aircon on/off to test if that belt is loose. Also use a long handled screw driver to your ear and against the tensioner pulley to check its bearing as they give trouble, although it will be a constant noise.

Power steer has no load until you work the steering wheel, so again it's a simple check. Turn the wheel and listen for belt squeal as well as feel the steering wheel jump in your hands when the pump stops/starts due to belt slip.

That only leaves the alternator which is 99% the one making initial start up noise while the battery is getting max charge.

Haha yeah I owned a Z31 for 14 years before I got this R32, and oftentimes I would wonder if it's just lazy engineering or their mechanics' hands are really that small.

As suggested by Jiffo, I paid attention when cycling A/C off and on and turn steering left and right. The noise didn't appear to have change much, and that leads me to believe it's the alternator belt.

So besides the squeaky noise when cold, there is also a mechanical grinding noise. And just like the squeaky noise, the frequency increases with more rev and goes away after warm up. Could it be worn water pump or fan clutch? Hence dragging the alternator drive belt?

Edited by TXSquirrel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...