Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea, i get what you mean.

On another note, what are your guys thoughts on this?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-3529373/?Cr=4

Seems kinda on the expensive side, but it does have a brand new engine which i really like. Don't honestly know what to make of that though, as it seems quite stock and for 32k there's other ones being offered with extensive mods.

Anyone able to give their thoughts on this one?

I'm not a spray painter, but some things I've noticed about the black one you may have missed. Typically photos make something rough look a little better, so what this thing looks like in real life is anyone's guess.

I've drawn circles on parts you should look at.

Red circle - You can see the roofline of the warehouse is wavey, even in oxidised paint, a line wont waver, so it looks to me as if it's been resprayed there.

Yellow line - the top of the garage door dips down midway. Taking into account the GTR rear guard curves, that looks like a low point in the panel.

Blue circles - You can see a clearcoat difference between the door and rear guard, the door is shiny and the guard is flat. So, shit job on blending. Same as the Roof to pillar, the original paint is oxidised on the roof and bonnet and you can see a difference in paint on the pillar. Again the finish is flat like it needs a buff.

I would want a picture of inside the guard and wheel well on the drivers side. Also a look at and control arm bolt holes for any bending/shearing from a possible side impact or gutter hit.

post-6954-0-67285300-1448238925_thumb.jpg

In comparison to the passenger side, to me both guards look different. You can see the reflection in the passenger side follow the correct lines.

post-6954-0-58137500-1448238952_thumb.jpg

Anyway, those a a couple of little tips you can apply to other cars you're looking at. Good luck in your search.

Edited by JezR31
  • Like 1

I understand that an exhaust made of mild steel produces a deeper sound to that of a stainless exhaust. This is likely due to the wall thickness of the tubing.

Mine is a custom steel system and sounds deeper than all of the Jap stainless systems I've heard. Unless there's something else at play. I would also recommend not being afraid of buying a car that's been modified if they're nice correctly fitted mods. You'll end up doing it yourself anyway.

Oh and you'll love it, I had mine up for sale recently and just couldn't bare to do it. You'll see.

Edited by Goombeh

I understand that an exhaust made of mild steel produces a deeper sound to that of a stainless exhaust. This is likely due to the wall thickness of the tubing.

Mine is a custom steel system and sounds deeper than all of the Jap stainless systems I've heard. Unless there's something else at play. I would also recommend not being afraid of buying a car that's been modified if they're nice correctly fitted mods. You'll end up doing it yourself anyway.

Oh and you'll love it, I had mine up for sale recently and just couldn't bare to do it. You'll see.

Thanks for the tip, do you have any thoughts on a titanium exhaust? I hear they're good for weight reduction and give nice gains, but would they give a similar effect to mild steel?

I find that titanium exhaust tend to scream a little more than mild steel.

I have a mate that runs a titanium exhaust with no mufflers, it's ridiculously loud and sounds awesome but it drones and has a screamy note to it.

I run a slapped together mix of stainless and mild which has a much deeper note to it. It also doesn't sound like other GTR's. I'm guessing it's because of all the mixed parts on the exhaust.

If you wanted the deep bassy V8 note, you need v8 displacement lol.

Quieter exhausts (3" big mufflers) make an RB26 more mechanical sounding kinda like an e46 M3 or old datsun L series with triple webbers.. well maybe that's a little exaggerated lol. I think its the individual throttle bodies that make them sound different to RB20s and RB25s. Titanium seems to make the higher end frequences stand out more as well.

From what I've heard the bigger straight through 3.5"+ diameters with single muffler and resonator give that awesome big boomy RB26 idle lope if you have cams. Loud as hell though, your neighbors will hate you if you drive it late at night.

Thanks so much for taking the time to write that!

Any thoughts on the one i linked above? Highly considering that due to new engine.

End of the day, it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it I guess. It does look nice, has some good modifications as well as a tidy interior. I think if you drive a stock GTR and a lightly modified one, you'd be blown away at the difference a tune makes. You'll quickly get over the stock one quickly, even someone that wasn't really into performance cars.

To get a stock one with an unknown engine modded to where that black one is would probably cost you 5-6k in parts alone? Not including labour. It already has a powerFC, injectors, N1 block and pump. Intake and exhaust taken care of, all you'd have to do is highflow/upgrade the turbos in that case you wanted more power.

A lot of people are attracted to the cheap purchase price of a stock car, coming from experience, I was one of them lol. You get over the stock power so fast, especially on a warm day with aircon on. The power delivery is just terrible. I suggest buying an already lightly modified one, possibly one that still has the stock twins or N1s. Going from completely stock to 300kw, having to do all the supporting fuel, intake, exhaust, ecu mods, suspension and brakes can be an absolute nightmare. You will go through thousands in just labour. Then you see something on carsales with 260-300kw, same mods you want for half the cost. Building something vs purchasing at same specs is going to be night and day difference on your wallet. When you mod you car you get this crazy attention to detail and all the small things end up collectively to big $. Doesn't have to be 300kw, I'm just picking a number to give an example

Personally I think it's worth buying modded over stock. Someone has already gone through the headaches and $$$$ labour costs for you. All you have to do is enjoy it and add little things to personalise it to your own tastes.

Definitely have a drive of a 250kw one, muuuuch nicer than stock and not too crazy. Economy should be the same at that power level.

If you wanted the deep bassy V8 note, you need v8 displacement lol.

Quieter exhausts (3" big mufflers) make an RB26 more mechanical sounding kinda like an e46 M3 or old datsun L series with triple webbers.. well maybe that's a little exaggerated lol. I think its the individual throttle bodies that make them sound different to RB20s and RB25s. Titanium seems to make the higher end frequences stand out more as well.

From what I've heard the bigger straight through 3.5"+ diameters with single muffler and resonator give that awesome big boomy RB26 idle lope if you have cams. Loud as hell though, your neighbors will hate you if you drive it late at night.

End of the day, it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it I guess. It does look nice, has some good modifications as well as a tidy interior. I think if you drive a stock GTR and a lightly modified one, you'd be blown away at the difference a tune makes. You'll quickly get over the stock one quickly, even someone that wasn't really into performance cars.

To get a stock one with an unknown engine modded to where that black one is would probably cost you 5-6k in parts alone? Not including labour. It already has a powerFC, injectors, N1 block and pump. Intake and exhaust taken care of, all you'd have to do is highflow/upgrade the turbos in that case you wanted more power.

A lot of people are attracted to the cheap purchase price of a stock car, coming from experience, I was one of them lol. You get over the stock power so fast, especially on a warm day with aircon on. The power delivery is just terrible. I suggest buying an already lightly modified one, possibly one that still has the stock twins or N1s. Going from completely stock to 300kw, having to do all the supporting fuel, intake, exhaust, ecu mods, suspension and brakes can be an absolute nightmare. You will go through thousands in just labour. Then you see something on carsales with 260-300kw, same mods you want for half the cost. Building something vs purchasing at same specs is going to be night and day difference on your wallet. When you mod you car you get this crazy attention to detail and all the small things end up collectively to big $. Doesn't have to be 300kw, I'm just picking a number to give an example

Personally I think it's worth buying modded over stock. Someone has already gone through the headaches and $$$$ labour costs for you. All you have to do is enjoy it and add little things to personalise it to your own tastes.

Definitely have a drive of a 250kw one, muuuuch nicer than stock and not too crazy. Economy should be the same at that power level.

I went for a test drive of a stock one tonight here in vic, pretty impressed from that alone. Makes me kinda excited to check this one out in queensland. He says he's got dyno sheets which i'm yet to take a look at, but i presume with the new turbos and fuel injectors it's going to be putting out a bit more than stock.

I spoke to the guy and i'm flying up there next week to check it out, which now means i need to find a good mechanic in Brisbane who knows their RB26's.

Anyone able to recommend a mechanic?

Also, the car is registered in WA so does anyone know about the process of transferring from WA to VIC rego?

Thanks for the tip, do you have any thoughts on a titanium exhaust? I hear they're good for weight reduction and give nice gains, but would they give a similar effect to mild steel?

Yah, Ti is extremely light, mild steel definitely not, however in terms of noise, Ti tends to sound a little higher pitched to my ears.

I would say Ti produces a higher pitched sound than Stainless. All three materials have quite different sounds in my opinion. I don't know the true weight penalty of a steel system nor whether I'd really feel in in a 480hp GTR, but I'm pleased with the sound.

Hope you find a good one, they seem to be hard to come by.

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=893571297378777&id=109130862489495

This is one I'd recommend if you are still looking. Iron Chef is one of the most respected importers in the field and got me my car. Don't get ripped off.....

Yea, i get what you mean.

On another note, what are your guys thoughts on this?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-3529373/?Cr=4

Seems kinda on the expensive side, but it does have a brand new engine which i really like. Don't honestly know what to make of that though, as it seems quite stock and for 32k there's other ones being offered with extensive mods.

Anyone able to give their thoughts on this one?

From the photos and the sellers comments, it has a N1 RB26 replacement engine (R34 GTR V-Spec II Nur) But you'd want to see it in person to confirm.

They used them in the N1 GTR's / R34 GTR V-Spec II Nur and M-Spec Nur.

N1 RB26 = Race Spec engine from the Nissan factory.

That engine alone with no turbos was going for $15,000 at Just Jap: http://justjap.com/genuine-nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-nur-engine-rb26dett.html

Along with all the decent mods listed, I'd say it's ok...

But I'd find out what turbo's the car is running.

  • Like 1

Yea, i get what you mean.

On another note, what are your guys thoughts on this?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-3529373/?Cr=4

Seems kinda on the expensive side, but it does have a brand new engine which i really like. Don't honestly know what to make of that though, as it seems quite stock and for 32k there's other ones being offered with extensive mods.

Anyone able to give their thoughts on this one?

N1 engine? If everything else is okay, take it while you can. Even though the engine is fresh (Making the K's somewhat irrelevant, take a look at getting a JOC, to see if the K's on the body are legit.

Edited by Burger

stock gtrs suck they feel so doughy, but all it takes is a proper catback some front pipes tuned length sound awesome and if you pull the boost restrictor that should make it a lot more interesting to drive, what ever one you look at get it checked out by someone that knows their GTR's, some easy tips on bringing the price down is to look for the following:

Rust on the seams near the struts on the passenger side of the engine bay

There is more rust if you look behind the hinges of the bonnet, check the rear quarter glass for tape lines for a cheap paint job

Check the front drive shafts if the boots are split

if its advertised as stock check what computer it came with if you see a mines or anything like that make sure its running stock boost with the restrictor in place

Get a compression check!!!!!!!!!!! check the oil and coolant mine was low on oil and coolant when I checked it out

stock gtrs suck they feel so doughy, but all it takes is a proper catback some front pipes tuned length sound awesome and if you pull the boost restrictor that should make it a lot more interesting to drive

this is the perfect way to end up with a big end knock down the track

this is the perfect way to end up with a big end knock down the track

Forgive my Ignorance But I've read the statement "catback, front pipes and remove boost restrictor" A lot on this forum.

This is a bad idea? or simply a bad idea without boost controllers, ecu etc?

( I am also looking at a GTR early next year.. )

The problem is the ecu runs to much timing because Japan has higher octane fuels then us and on our fuel it detonates and causes bearing damage and sooner rather then later bearing knock or a hole in a piston

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...