Jump to content
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Recommended Posts

I have a HKS Dragger exhaust on my GTS-T. Sounds kinda deep but in saying that RB's don't sound all that deep. I know what you're saying but in the end deep = v8.

Screamer isn't deep either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, i get what you mean.

On another note, what are your guys thoughts on this?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-3529373/?Cr=4

Seems kinda on the expensive side, but it does have a brand new engine which i really like. Don't honestly know what to make of that though, as it seems quite stock and for 32k there's other ones being offered with extensive mods.

Anyone able to give their thoughts on this one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not a spray painter, but some things I've noticed about the black one you may have missed. Typically photos make something rough look a little better, so what this thing looks like in real life is anyone's guess.

I've drawn circles on parts you should look at.

Red circle - You can see the roofline of the warehouse is wavey, even in oxidised paint, a line wont waver, so it looks to me as if it's been resprayed there.

Yellow line - the top of the garage door dips down midway. Taking into account the GTR rear guard curves, that looks like a low point in the panel.

Blue circles - You can see a clearcoat difference between the door and rear guard, the door is shiny and the guard is flat. So, shit job on blending. Same as the Roof to pillar, the original paint is oxidised on the roof and bonnet and you can see a difference in paint on the pillar. Again the finish is flat like it needs a buff.

I would want a picture of inside the guard and wheel well on the drivers side. Also a look at and control arm bolt holes for any bending/shearing from a possible side impact or gutter hit.

post-6954-0-67285300-1448238925_thumb.jpg

In comparison to the passenger side, to me both guards look different. You can see the reflection in the passenger side follow the correct lines.

post-6954-0-58137500-1448238952_thumb.jpg

Anyway, those a a couple of little tips you can apply to other cars you're looking at. Good luck in your search.

Edited by JezR31
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so much for taking the time to write that!

Any thoughts on the one i linked above? Highly considering that due to new engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand that an exhaust made of mild steel produces a deeper sound to that of a stainless exhaust. This is likely due to the wall thickness of the tubing.

Mine is a custom steel system and sounds deeper than all of the Jap stainless systems I've heard. Unless there's something else at play. I would also recommend not being afraid of buying a car that's been modified if they're nice correctly fitted mods. You'll end up doing it yourself anyway.

Oh and you'll love it, I had mine up for sale recently and just couldn't bare to do it. You'll see.

Edited by Goombeh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand that an exhaust made of mild steel produces a deeper sound to that of a stainless exhaust. This is likely due to the wall thickness of the tubing.

Mine is a custom steel system and sounds deeper than all of the Jap stainless systems I've heard. Unless there's something else at play. I would also recommend not being afraid of buying a car that's been modified if they're nice correctly fitted mods. You'll end up doing it yourself anyway.

Oh and you'll love it, I had mine up for sale recently and just couldn't bare to do it. You'll see.

Thanks for the tip, do you have any thoughts on a titanium exhaust? I hear they're good for weight reduction and give nice gains, but would they give a similar effect to mild steel?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Ti exhaust on my R34.

I have a s/s exhaust on my R32.

Some say that (depending on the brand), you can lose some of the RB sound with the Ti. I didn't so I've been lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I find that titanium exhaust tend to scream a little more than mild steel.

I have a mate that runs a titanium exhaust with no mufflers, it's ridiculously loud and sounds awesome but it drones and has a screamy note to it.

I run a slapped together mix of stainless and mild which has a much deeper note to it. It also doesn't sound like other GTR's. I'm guessing it's because of all the mixed parts on the exhaust.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you wanted the deep bassy V8 note, you need v8 displacement lol.

Quieter exhausts (3" big mufflers) make an RB26 more mechanical sounding kinda like an e46 M3 or old datsun L series with triple webbers.. well maybe that's a little exaggerated lol. I think its the individual throttle bodies that make them sound different to RB20s and RB25s. Titanium seems to make the higher end frequences stand out more as well.

From what I've heard the bigger straight through 3.5"+ diameters with single muffler and resonator give that awesome big boomy RB26 idle lope if you have cams. Loud as hell though, your neighbors will hate you if you drive it late at night.

Thanks so much for taking the time to write that!

Any thoughts on the one i linked above? Highly considering that due to new engine.

End of the day, it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it I guess. It does look nice, has some good modifications as well as a tidy interior. I think if you drive a stock GTR and a lightly modified one, you'd be blown away at the difference a tune makes. You'll quickly get over the stock one quickly, even someone that wasn't really into performance cars.

To get a stock one with an unknown engine modded to where that black one is would probably cost you 5-6k in parts alone? Not including labour. It already has a powerFC, injectors, N1 block and pump. Intake and exhaust taken care of, all you'd have to do is highflow/upgrade the turbos in that case you wanted more power.

A lot of people are attracted to the cheap purchase price of a stock car, coming from experience, I was one of them lol. You get over the stock power so fast, especially on a warm day with aircon on. The power delivery is just terrible. I suggest buying an already lightly modified one, possibly one that still has the stock twins or N1s. Going from completely stock to 300kw, having to do all the supporting fuel, intake, exhaust, ecu mods, suspension and brakes can be an absolute nightmare. You will go through thousands in just labour. Then you see something on carsales with 260-300kw, same mods you want for half the cost. Building something vs purchasing at same specs is going to be night and day difference on your wallet. When you mod you car you get this crazy attention to detail and all the small things end up collectively to big $. Doesn't have to be 300kw, I'm just picking a number to give an example

Personally I think it's worth buying modded over stock. Someone has already gone through the headaches and $$$$ labour costs for you. All you have to do is enjoy it and add little things to personalise it to your own tastes.

Definitely have a drive of a 250kw one, muuuuch nicer than stock and not too crazy. Economy should be the same at that power level.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you wanted the deep bassy V8 note, you need v8 displacement lol.

Quieter exhausts (3" big mufflers) make an RB26 more mechanical sounding kinda like an e46 M3 or old datsun L series with triple webbers.. well maybe that's a little exaggerated lol. I think its the individual throttle bodies that make them sound different to RB20s and RB25s. Titanium seems to make the higher end frequences stand out more as well.

From what I've heard the bigger straight through 3.5"+ diameters with single muffler and resonator give that awesome big boomy RB26 idle lope if you have cams. Loud as hell though, your neighbors will hate you if you drive it late at night.

End of the day, it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it I guess. It does look nice, has some good modifications as well as a tidy interior. I think if you drive a stock GTR and a lightly modified one, you'd be blown away at the difference a tune makes. You'll quickly get over the stock one quickly, even someone that wasn't really into performance cars.

To get a stock one with an unknown engine modded to where that black one is would probably cost you 5-6k in parts alone? Not including labour. It already has a powerFC, injectors, N1 block and pump. Intake and exhaust taken care of, all you'd have to do is highflow/upgrade the turbos in that case you wanted more power.

A lot of people are attracted to the cheap purchase price of a stock car, coming from experience, I was one of them lol. You get over the stock power so fast, especially on a warm day with aircon on. The power delivery is just terrible. I suggest buying an already lightly modified one, possibly one that still has the stock twins or N1s. Going from completely stock to 300kw, having to do all the supporting fuel, intake, exhaust, ecu mods, suspension and brakes can be an absolute nightmare. You will go through thousands in just labour. Then you see something on carsales with 260-300kw, same mods you want for half the cost. Building something vs purchasing at same specs is going to be night and day difference on your wallet. When you mod you car you get this crazy attention to detail and all the small things end up collectively to big $. Doesn't have to be 300kw, I'm just picking a number to give an example

Personally I think it's worth buying modded over stock. Someone has already gone through the headaches and $$$$ labour costs for you. All you have to do is enjoy it and add little things to personalise it to your own tastes.

Definitely have a drive of a 250kw one, muuuuch nicer than stock and not too crazy. Economy should be the same at that power level.

I went for a test drive of a stock one tonight here in vic, pretty impressed from that alone. Makes me kinda excited to check this one out in queensland. He says he's got dyno sheets which i'm yet to take a look at, but i presume with the new turbos and fuel injectors it's going to be putting out a bit more than stock.

I spoke to the guy and i'm flying up there next week to check it out, which now means i need to find a good mechanic in Brisbane who knows their RB26's.

Anyone able to recommend a mechanic?

Also, the car is registered in WA so does anyone know about the process of transferring from WA to VIC rego?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tip, do you have any thoughts on a titanium exhaust? I hear they're good for weight reduction and give nice gains, but would they give a similar effect to mild steel?

Yah, Ti is extremely light, mild steel definitely not, however in terms of noise, Ti tends to sound a little higher pitched to my ears.

I would say Ti produces a higher pitched sound than Stainless. All three materials have quite different sounds in my opinion. I don't know the true weight penalty of a steel system nor whether I'd really feel in in a 480hp GTR, but I'm pleased with the sound.

Hope you find a good one, they seem to be hard to come by.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, i get what you mean.

On another note, what are your guys thoughts on this?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-3529373/?Cr=4

Seems kinda on the expensive side, but it does have a brand new engine which i really like. Don't honestly know what to make of that though, as it seems quite stock and for 32k there's other ones being offered with extensive mods.

Anyone able to give their thoughts on this one?

From the photos and the sellers comments, it has a N1 RB26 replacement engine (R34 GTR V-Spec II Nur) But you'd want to see it in person to confirm.

They used them in the N1 GTR's / R34 GTR V-Spec II Nur and M-Spec Nur.

N1 RB26 = Race Spec engine from the Nissan factory.

That engine alone with no turbos was going for $15,000 at Just Jap: http://justjap.com/genuine-nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-nur-engine-rb26dett.html

Along with all the decent mods listed, I'd say it's ok...

But I'd find out what turbo's the car is running.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, i get what you mean.

On another note, what are your guys thoughts on this?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-3529373/?Cr=4

Seems kinda on the expensive side, but it does have a brand new engine which i really like. Don't honestly know what to make of that though, as it seems quite stock and for 32k there's other ones being offered with extensive mods.

Anyone able to give their thoughts on this one?

N1 engine? If everything else is okay, take it while you can. Even though the engine is fresh (Making the K's somewhat irrelevant, take a look at getting a JOC, to see if the K's on the body are legit.

Edited by Burger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

stock gtrs suck they feel so doughy, but all it takes is a proper catback some front pipes tuned length sound awesome and if you pull the boost restrictor that should make it a lot more interesting to drive, what ever one you look at get it checked out by someone that knows their GTR's, some easy tips on bringing the price down is to look for the following:

Rust on the seams near the struts on the passenger side of the engine bay

There is more rust if you look behind the hinges of the bonnet, check the rear quarter glass for tape lines for a cheap paint job

Check the front drive shafts if the boots are split

if its advertised as stock check what computer it came with if you see a mines or anything like that make sure its running stock boost with the restrictor in place

Get a compression check!!!!!!!!!!! check the oil and coolant mine was low on oil and coolant when I checked it out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

stock gtrs suck they feel so doughy, but all it takes is a proper catback some front pipes tuned length sound awesome and if you pull the boost restrictor that should make it a lot more interesting to drive

this is the perfect way to end up with a big end knock down the track

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this is the perfect way to end up with a big end knock down the track

Forgive my Ignorance But I've read the statement "catback, front pipes and remove boost restrictor" A lot on this forum.

This is a bad idea? or simply a bad idea without boost controllers, ecu etc?

( I am also looking at a GTR early next year.. )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The problem is the ecu runs to much timing because Japan has higher octane fuels then us and on our fuel it detonates and causes bearing damage and sooner rather then later bearing knock or a hole in a piston

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...