Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help with parts


JXL
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Really pissed, some little bastards smashed my skyline driver's side window trying to flog stuff this morning Saturday in Officeworks Ossie Park carpark about 8.45am. Right next to the entrance for Tim Slakos car performance. I punched one in the head when he jumped back into the passenger side of their get away car and the driver floored it.

Turns out that the licence plate numbers don't match the car. Could anyone keep a look out for a dark grey gunmental Holden Commodore sedan 80's model, box shape looks like the old shitty calais. Had a red pin stripe around the car.

Reg 1ANW-461 <--- this plate doesn't match but I definitely remember the 1ANW at the start.

There was 2 young kids in it, the one I punched was about 5'8 white, skinny, no facial growth, light brown/yellow short to medium hair. Bout 15-17years old was wearing a all yellow jumper with a hood and grey or faded blue jeans.

Other guy in the car was closer to 6' black/brown medium hair didn't see much else of him.

If I happen to be so lucky that someone on here saw them can you pm me.

Now I need to get a complete driver's side window, don't want to claim on insurance cause its like a $600excess. Can anyone recommend me a wrecker where to get ASAP.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh an also does anyone know (can't get in contact with wreckers on a sat arvo) if R32 drivers window panel is the same as the R33? cause there's a couple guys in the for sale section that have them for sale.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I work at Zest about 20 metres up the road from there so will keep an eye open!

we had a break in about a week ago out the back... has been pretty good before in the past but it might be these same sh*ts! if i see the car and them, myself my employees not too mention the gym members will have a field day! I hope the police get to them before we do for their own safety!

Oh and i will steal their wallets to pay for your parts!

From your Friendly neighbourhood Osborne Park Hitman,

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers man, yeah one of the other guys at work had his whole dash smashed and stereo stolen at Innaloo movies last Thurs so that why i was concerned when i heard the alarm and thought thats odd.

Yeah defintely swipe their wallets want to clear out their accounts, early estimates is that the glass will cost $280 but fitting will probably be a bitch.

All this after i just forked out $900 for Tafe second semester.

We should catch up for a drink during lunch or something cause i'm usually at that lunch plus place across from Nissan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I work at Zest about 20 metres up the road from there so will keep an eye open!

we had a break in about a week ago out the back... has been pretty good before in the past but it might be these same sh*ts! if i see the car and them, myself my employees not too mention the gym members will have a field day! I hope the police get to them before we do for their own safety!

Oh and i will steal their wallets to pay for your parts!

From your Friendly neighbourhood Osborne Park Hitman,

Dan

Hey man are you Daniel Webb, Matt Webb's brother?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I visually inspected the threads and they look intact and not so dirty, so I don’t understand why they wouldn’t thread in straight.    How would a chaser cause any damage? It’s intended to clean up the threads right? Even if it was cross threaded. That shouldn’t be the case though because the studs that were removed were OEM. The intake side had no issue. 
    • Well, try the new studs first, in case the US sourced studs are actually the problem. But given that the head is off the engine, at least it won't be too hard for someone to install helicoils if it turns out the holes are stuffed. You don't want to just run a tap or chaser through there if by doing so you leave behind 3/10ths of f**k all thread and the studs just pull straight out when you torque up the manifold nuts.
    • Hey everyone, I’m having a bit of a crisis and would like some advice.  I am in the process of assembling a head I had gotten back after NAPREC did their work. I had the exhaust studs removed prior to sending it to the machine shop, but afterwards when I tried threading in new studs, they wouldn’t go in straight. They would thread in smoothly by hand with almost no effort, but it doesn’t go in straight (noticeably circular motion) and eventually stops about halfway in. I had a couple go in perfectly straight with no effort, but when I removed them to try it again, they no longer when in straight and had the same issue as the others. The studs I’m using are M8x1.25, which I read was the standard. I did some research and decided to buy a chaser kit and new studs IEE NZ just in case. Has anyone experienced this? How screwed am I? Do I just need to run a chaser or tap and try again? Prefer a chaser because I heard taps can destroy existing threads.    Note: I also have a new set of intake studs that went straight in just fine that I bought from IEE NZ. I bought the exhaust studs from the U.S.
    • Photos. What you describe sounds impossible, given how the arms are assembled to the upright.
    • Hello everyone.  Since the last stint of turbo upgrades, the intake plumbing from air filter to turbo was made up of sections of ally pipe and silicone bends. This was done as the stock suction pipe was so restrictive, it was noticable on the dyno. The configuration and layout of the m35 engine bay meant that the intake plumbing was too close to the exhaust manifold, even in contact with the heat sheild in one spot. Apart from that i had to use the first section of the stock suction pipe bolted onto the turbo. Although the setup was much better than the stock suction pipe, it still caused some restriction and excesive heat into the incoming air. Its like trying to suck a thickshake through a thin soft drink straw, possible, but you gotta work really hard. Then add the heat...for those that may not know, the hotter the air, the further the oxygen molecules are apart and the less explosive a given area of air is when mixed with fuel, hence, why intercoolers work (compressing air makes the molecules move faster which also generates heat). Water injection and nitrous oxide injection also use the same principle.  As the M35 Stagea intake and suction pipe options on the market are very very limited, i decided to fabricate my own from the turbo to the filter and include one silicone joiner to allow for engine twist.  If anyone is interested while I'm in the process, I could manufacture a couple more but you gotta let me know soon. I'll post some pictures soon.
×
×
  • Create New...