Jump to content
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

Sign in to follow this  

Kingpin Bearing Replacement R33 Gtst

Recommended Posts

so, I replaced the passenger side bearings on the weekend as I would get a bit of a 'knock' feel over some bumps, like a worn balljoint, and a slight wander feel on passenger side, on occasion. Can't feel either now after replacing the bearings. This won't be much of a writeup as most of what you need to know is already here


my main concerns were what would be needed to separate the upper and lower halves of the upright after undoing the kingpin nut - and in my case it was nothing, they literally pulled apart once the nut was removed, the lower half falling away just from the weight of the control arm etc - and how to press the bearings out and back in.

I already have a 10-tonne press ($187 delivered off ebay son, well worth it, have used it for heaps that I would have otherwise had to pay a workshop to do) so this wasn't a big deal, the bearings are pressed in but not that tight, they came out and went in easily.

For the top bearing, I cut a piece of pipe about 25mm long that matched the diameter of the upright; a big enough diameter to clear the bearing and run around the face of the upright. This is so when you invert the arm and press the bearing out, the arm is supported and it leaves room for the bearing to just push out inside the 25mm pipe. I used as big a socket that would fit through the opening of the larger lower bearing (think it was 20mm?) with a small extension bar on the socket for the press to push onto. That bearing came out in one piece, no drama.

I then turned the arm the other way round and put the section of pipe underneath, and went to press out the lower bearing, which only pressed out the inner race and left the outer shell stuck in the upright. Not unexpected, and I just put the arm in the vice and used a long cold chisel (long screwdriver would do fine) to give the shell a few taps to pop it out from the upright. Then just clean it all up leaving it nice n spotless for the new bearings and dust seal (kit available from Kudos Motorsports) then very easy to spray a bit of silicone lube into the arm to slide the new bearings in nice n easy on the press. Once the new bearings were in, I used the old bearings to sit them on to and press the new bearings in that little bit further as of course they exactly match the outline of the new ones, and both bearings need to sit slightly below surface for the lower dust seal to then be pressed in, and the upper cap to be fitted once all back on the car and assembled.

It really was one of the easier jobs that I've done for a while and had allowed more time than it needed, as with a press and a few drifts handy to press the old bearings out and new ones in, they all went in and out without fuss.

A few pics, but unfortunately didn't take any during the 'press' part of the procedure; it was pretty straightforward though.

View of kingpin after upright removed


upright with upper bearing out


upright with lower bearing out


lower bearing, with new dust seal fitted


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Create New...