Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Radiator Cracked Nm 35 . Oil Pressure Gauge Useful?


samuri
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have an upper cracked radiator for an NM 35 axis au tech 2002 model.

Just below fuel cap neck on the right hand side. Perhaps 7cm from neck

Replacement will cost $1100 with labor. is that a reasonable price .

What choices do I have with radiator.

Repair iis not an option I was told

I can't do this myself.

With no coolant touching the sensor the temperature gauge was reading near normal.

I thus thought the car was operating normally every time I glanced at the gauges.

I was thinking of buying an oil temperature

or oil pressure gauge so I can get better engine information .

Is that over kill.is there a preferred choice amongst you guys.

If I am going to get another gauge what other gauges might be an option.

Is the such an animal out there as an oil temperature pressure gauge.

Can't see any online. What's the best brand please?

What are your thoughts

What will my 2002 model allow me to do in terms of oil

gauge dashboard placement.

Hoping for a quick reply to sort out my options

Also where do you suggest this gauge goes ?

I don't want to rip out

my satnav DVD player nor the TV screen .

Would prefer to have near other gauges but assume because of cost

I will have to pay for it to be installed near the driverwindscreen Pillar.

If there's was no coolant how long could I drive for without doing some damage ,

assuming engine was cold.

Assuming car was warm

How do I know I already know I have not done damage .as far as I can tell

Engine is okay

Thanks in advance for any thoughts

This leak continued for at least two days of driving unnoticed

but I don't know where the level was during those two days or more

Do sensors have to be reset or air removed from system.

What happens if coolant is just added to a new radiator replacement.

How can I tell if the job has been done properly

apart from the fact that there would be no leaks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who told you that it was unrepairable - a mechanical workshop or a radiator repair shop? Find another radiator repair shop for an opinion. I have had new tops put on my radiator for a lot less than the price of a new radiator and I have also bought new OEM radiators which have been fine and not unduly expensive (around $300). If yours is original it is 14 years old. Personally I would buy a new stock radiator from a radiator speialist.

A radiator shop will replace the anti freeze/conditioner and bleed the system.

Gauges are great but if they are going to cost you an arm and a leg just check your water and oil levels once a week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Top tank not repairable as was told made of plastic.

I assume true...is it true... according to midas muffler.

Top tank is not repairable but can be replaced. Would you take your computer to a carpenter? Go to a radiator specialist.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A new top tank for an NM35 is worth as much as a new radiator; buy the one that Lakes101 and move on with your life.

It's larger, and better suited to our conditions than the undersized stocker; your car will thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have fitted about 6 in the last few weeks, pretty common. Some brands require a fair bit of cutting so beware.

Alloy ones can have their own issues, probably due to the Chinese quality control. I prefer the plastic tank M35 specific ones these days.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used the radiator Scotty was just mentioning. Fitted it last weekend.

It's at least twice the thickness as the standard and didn't require any modifications at all.

Took maybe an. Hour to do the swap, not a hard job on the m35 at all. But bleeding the cooling system is another problem all together.

Definitely look into the "coolant bypass mod" on these forums.

I also just did this on the weekend along with a new thermostat.

Took very little time to bleed and the car now sits lower on the temperature gauge.

Edited by Bmx537
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had no choice but to send to Midas, locally as Nissan Indooroopilly and Nissan Moorooka refused to accept my towed vehicle being a personal import !!!!!

I will remember that .

Definitely not happy with price gouging at midas but car not driveable thanks for the info so far

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had no choice but to send to Midas, locally as Nissan Indooroopilly and Nissan Moorooka refused to accept my towed vehicle being a personal import !!!!!

I will remember that .

Definitely not happy with price gouging at midas but car not driveable thanks for the info so far

What do you mean you had no choice? I see there are many radiator repair shops in Brisbane such as

http://www.reddevilradiators.com.au/index.php/radiators

Link to comment
Share on other sites

V35 350gt G35 look to be similar but are 26mm rather than 16mm

I found that to be the case with C34s.After fitting an FMIC and FFP, I somehow fitted a 26mm plastic rad instead of the 32mm. My fault it was early days with the Stags and never noticed it. I had overheating problems. The stock water temp gauge never went over halfway, but when coming up the mountain the oil temp gauge I fitted went up to 120/130.+.And it started to boil in the back of the plenum.

Once I fitted the 50mm alloy, no more boiling and oil temp always less than 100.

Had to do a bit of cutting but well worth it.

Edited by 66yostagea
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, my car issues seem to be going from bad to worse and I’m hoping someone can offer some advice. I’m a Brit and have asked for help on the Brit forums but they’re not as active as they once were.    To save my thumbs I’m just going to copy and paste my posts from the Brit forum. I hope this isn’t considered lazy or rude:- 1st post…… For a while now my dash warning lights on my R34 GTT have been coming on. All of the them. When it happens the car runs like a bag of s**t. I pull over. Turn the car off and back on and the problem goes away. It doesn’t happen again for ages and then all of a sudden the dash lights up and the car is struggling. This has become more and more frequent and it’s now pretty much undrivable. I need to sort this out but don’t know where to start looking. A quick search around the forums and I’m thinking maybe coil packs but I don’t want to just change parts for the hell of it. 2nd post…… Ok the latest in the saga……. I decided to replace the spark plugs and coil packs to eliminate them as the problem. I figured they were over 20 years old and could do with being replaced anyway. I’ve just been out to have a go at changing them but the car won’t start. It turns over fine but won’t fire. I had a replacement CAS here so have swapped that out but it still won’t fire. Pretty sure I’m getting fuel to the injectors as I can smell it! Any ideas? Should the coil pack harness have a constant 12v feed once the ignition is on? Can I test this just by putting a meter across the + and ground pins? Is there a relay or something that should give the harness power once the ignition is on? Any ideas/advice would be appreciated. I’m at my wits end. Don’t know where to start looking really???
    • Hi guys, im a Brit who’s been using this forum for a while. I’m after some help so thought I’d come on and introduce myself. my name is Paddy and I’m an old man (46)! I own an R34 GTT in cloud white. Had it a good few years and do enjoy driving it! Also enjoy the attention it gets.  for those of you who are interested I’ve posted a couple of pics. Not the best pics in the world and they seem to of come out worse than the originals but you get the picture   Will post my issues in the relevant forum. I hope you guys can offer some advice.    thanks. 
    • Started installing the meth kit last night, managed to get it mounted so I could still access the awd resevior. Battery is located on other side I figured this was a nice spot for it. Cheers mates.
    • I saw the E in the model number and stopped thinking. Might not be correct there.
    • As soon as I come on boost that rear housing area, along with all the stuff connected to it will get pretty toasty and I'm not the type to race for a whole 10s or so 😘
×
×
  • Create New...