Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb 2860-5 Highest Hp?


Jc052685

Recommended Posts

77,7mm spool, 9.5:1 compresson ratio.

Head work, 1mm over valve, unigroup cams. Should be a nice little package. when its done... Who knows, if you count these as the same as -5's it might be the most powerful car on -5's :P

I should start up a public build thread for it this RnR

Have done a little research RE exhaust wheels.

M7655 56 47.5
M8260 67 58.8
gtx2860/-5 53.9 47.0
gtx3071 60 55

Want to see one of the M8260 exhaust housings in person now... thats massive for stock location.

I might hit someone up locally and see if it would be possible to put a gtx3071 into the m7655's i have, if you could that could make for a hell of a lowmount setup...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow that is average for a race car... but was that built to class rules?

Was built to class rules, IP

Then after an incident with the IP committee the restrictors where removed and it got put in SS

That was near 10 years ago so I may be a bit off with my memory plus there was no E85 back then either

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow that is average for a race car... but was that built to class rules?

yes, and quite the opposite, it made amazing power and won the national championship.

Imagine a poor old RB trying to breathe through twin 27mm intakes :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh ffs just run some mph will ya.

This dyno numbers crap is just bullshit.

Run mph and then you will know that your dyno figures are just full of shit.

Show us the mph or just shut the fk up.

Just out of interest what setup do you have and what does it make on a dyno and MPH has it runs? Not having a go or anything just interested you feel so strongly about this.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just out of interest what setup do you have and what does it make on a dyno and MPH has it runs? Not having a go or anything just interested you feel so strongly about this.

I forget now but I posted it up in some thread here about 1 year ago.

From memory it was on par with every other -5 98 RON setup, nothing out of the ordinary, dyno was about 350awkw and it ran about 125mph (from memory) with a slipping clutch and stuffed transfer case.

So yes, it back up my dyno figure there or there abouts. I haven't had my TO4Z setup stretched to a full tune yet due to little niggly issues, so I haven't run it down the strip but I have played with a few of my mates VLTs and BarraTs pushing 130+ mph and my little 26 was more than capable up until my cooler pipes blow off.

Anyway, the thing is I am old school so apart from a dyno graph being useful to the tuner for tuning purposes, to me I don't give a fk because mph is where its at.

To me, when a dyno sheet is used to brag about numbers it is just wank factor, unless it is used to compare a previous setup for the purpose of analysing and discussing mods, but even that is less reliable than comparing before and after mph to measure engine power output.

There is a thread somewhere that people talk about setups and ETs and mph.

At the end of the day if you have the power you say you have, post up your slip and if the mph backs it up I will applaud you and shut the fk up myself.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

77,7mm spool, 9.5:1 compresson ratio.

Head work, 1mm over valve, unigroup cams. Should be a nice little package. when its done... Who knows, if you count these as the same as -5's it might be the most powerful car on -5's :P

I should start up a public build thread for it this RnR

Have done a little research RE exhaust wheels.

M7655 56 47.5

M8260 67 58.8

gtx2860/-5 53.9 47.0

gtx3071 60 55

Want to see one of the M8260 exhaust housings in person now... thats massive for stock location.

I might hit someone up locally and see if it would be possible to put a gtx3071 into the m7655's i have, if you could that could make for a hell of a lowmount setup...

Gtx 3071's in a stock low mount position IN stock style housings would be a bloody disaster IMO.

What rear housing would you use? The compact 0.64 rears? YUCK!

What about the tight/compact piping that would be used?

Why is there never any thought into rear housing sizes? You can't just keep throwing "billet big wheel" in the front and expect it to get out the same size drain plug. It's bloody crazy!!!!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was suggesting that they could be put into the tomei Rear housings. They are a tad bigger, so could help or may overwhelm it. Was just throwing the idea out there.

See attached comparison between the gtx2860's and the Tomei's

post-57955-0-24626400-1462055302_thumb.jpgpost-57955-0-57306600-1462055304_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I forget now but I posted it up in some thread here about 1 year ago.

From memory it was on par with every other -5 98 RON setup, nothing out of the ordinary, dyno was about 350awkw and it ran about 125mph (from memory) with a slipping clutch and stuffed transfer case.

So yes, it back up my dyno figure there or there abouts. I haven't had my TO4Z setup stretched to a full tune yet due to little niggly issues, so I haven't run it down the strip but I have played with a few of my mates VLTs and BarraTs pushing 130+ mph and my little 26 was more than capable up until my cooler pipes blow off.

Anyway, the thing is I am old school so apart from a dyno graph being useful to the tuner for tuning purposes, to me I don't give a fk because mph is where its at.

To me, when a dyno sheet is used to brag about numbers it is just wank factor, unless it is used to compare a previous setup for the purpose of analysing and discussing mods, but even that is less reliable than comparing before and after mph to measure engine power output.

There is a thread somewhere that people talk about setups and ETs and mph.

At the end of the day if you have the power you say you have, post up your slip and if the mph backs it up I will applaud you and shut the fk up myself.

Think we've had this discussion before lol. I've varied 5+mph with same power and in my opinion theres more to drag racing a manual GTR then making x amount of power and running x MPH. Powerband, driver, gearbox are big factors. Now if the car went out and trapped 120 obviously somethings up but if it went out with a slipping clutch stuffed transfercase and ran low 130's on a terrible pass i have little doubt with a awesome clutch and a brandnew transfercase its a possibility it could run high 130's on a perfect pass with the same power. Now a automatic GTR that uses all of its power efficiently thats a different story.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Think we've had this discussion before lol. I've varied 5+mph with same power and in my opinion theres more to drag racing a manual GTR then making x amount of power and running x MPH. Powerband, driver, gearbox are big factors. Now if the car went out and trapped 120 obviously somethings up but if it went out with a slipping clutch stuffed transfercase and ran low 130's on a terrible pass i have little doubt with a awesome clutch and a brandnew transfercase its a possibility it could run high 130's on a perfect pass with the same power. Now a automatic GTR that uses all of its power efficiently thats a different story.

Exactly. With the power he is quoting he should be up around 140mph, even with a crap run he should be trapping 135+ regardless of his ET. Even when running mine I got my best MPHs when I eased off the line with a 2.8ish 60 footers.

A GoPro and time slip is all he needs to prove any of his out of the ordinary claims..... 700 whp from -5s on a 26, pffft, rubbish!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That or a data log with a pull from 3k rpms to redline in 4th gear. If speed is calibrated correctly you could easily determine HP with car weight. Anyone claiming "highest HP" surely would have an ECU they could data log with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The R33 is actually the one you can import. It's a bunch of dumb rumors that make people think you can't. Here's a list of cars that can be imported.

Yea it can be imported, but it cant be driven. You still have to conform to EPA standards. Good luck with that on a rb26dett. So it will never be road legal. The only 33 and 34 that are legal are the ones from motorex and they were given a bond release. Now there is two r33 that has been truly legalized and that is the r33 LM edition under VCP-32 clause.....and it took them 2 years to do it. You have to get it converted to obd2....which if I remember right adds another 30k or so to the price tag on top of importation and the car. Plus it can only be done by one company that has the nhtsa confidentiality grant. Waste of money IMO when you could just wait a few more years and get one no questions asked. People have been importing all GTR's(skylines) for the past 10+ years now lol. They are not legal though. Just because it has plates doesn't mean its legal, that's a state issue. Legality is a Federal issue. The easy part is getting the cars on shore, the hard part is making them legal. It's not the same as importing a 32. You just find one (that is legal) send it over, get all proper forms filled out, and register it. Simple as that. I had mine delivered to my house and legally registered(state and federal) and insured in 30 minutes. If r33's were legal and that easy to obtain, importers would be selling them just as much as the 32's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Anytime soon that this car will be getting to the drag strip? Im keen to see what time it does

You guys talking about my car or the camaro?

I weighed mine at 3175 lbs (add 190 with me in it) and dyno'd ~460 rwhp on pump gas. Assuming 15% loss, I'd say the numbers are verified with a 529 HP at this boost and displacement on BW Match-bot software.

Here is a video of a little fun run with me and my brother in it (add another 185 lbs) - final weight would be around 3570 lbs.

I can pull a log of a 3rd or 4th gear street pull for you guys. Still can't get the medium boost actuator to hold over 16-17 psi on top end so I'm moving to the high one shortly to see if it will hold 19-20 psi on pump. Car runs very very well considering. Have not touched Haltech base timing yet.

Tires are 255/45/17 redline set at 8,000 for now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

G'day mate I was referring to the bloke that made the highest hp with the -5 turbos. I've been reading your thread in the build section very top quality build mate!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That Z that made 500kw on a hub dyno also made it to the strip last month I believe, did anyone see any numbers from those runs?

Yeah I think it was 11s @ 131

That was at cootamundra tho, so street surface

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Timing map only tells part of the story, I've seen a few cars where the CAS has been adjusted so you might see 12 at the ECU but at the motor you could be seeing 8 kind of thing. A S15 I converted from PowerFC to Nistune had just that, CAS was turned back to have less timing than the ignition map itself lol... "Choonered".
    • But your running 1.6 bar of boost, is it still 12 degrees of timing at 1.6 bar of boost? Also, is there e85 fuel at the petrol stations in Dubai?
    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
×
×
  • Create New...