Jump to content
SAU Community

GOT SUM's RB34


Recommended Posts

So rolls didnt happen. Got my car all done, aircon regassed, alignment, wheels balanced. Took it home to check everything the next morning, opened the radiator and there was some oil in the rad cap. Dropped the oil and there wasnt any water so all was good. Dropped the rad and it was a bit of a milkshake party. End up pulling the motor out that night. Still not sure where the oil was pushing into the water. Will get the head all checked out and decided to sell my cams and go to a set of kelford 270/274in 280ex 10.5mm lift. The block had a couple of cracks on the deck but nothing that I could see would mix the oil into the water. 

Motors now stripped down, just need to pick up another block and take it to my builder and get it all checked/machined/assembled. New cams should be here sometime this week so I'll be able to send the head away to get checked and setup for the new cams.

I have also sold my powerglide in order to fund a zf 8hp swap with goals to make the car more streetable and comfy to drive while still being able to maintain some drag racing functionality. We'll get the car back up and running and leave it on wastegate and focus on getting the box setup perfectly then we will add some power to it and see how it goes. Goal is to just drive it a lot more and be able to take my family out in it and cruise on the highway in 8th gear at 2000rpm while remaining fairly quiet. I have ordered shifter, TCU, domiworks adapter and bits and pieces and a new 25row setrab oil cooler/spal fan setup. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/9/2022 at 7:48 PM, admS15 said:

That's a bit of shit luck there. I like where you're going with the 8HP. What are you going to use to control it?

Should be fun, hopefully goes together alright. I went with the TurboLamik TCU. Lots of guys ive talked to have run GCU and nothing but problems and switched to TCU. So hopefully be pretty straight forward and get it running nice. Everyone reckons its basically a plug and play unit with minimal tuning needed. They preconfigure it to your car before its sent out.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, good call. I was going to say whatever you do make sure you don't use the htg GCU. Obviously you've heard and probably seen the same stuff I have. Hope it all goes well, that will be an awesome setup and make your car next level.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Had some bits and pieces arrive in the mail over the last week. 

BMW shifter out of a 6 series, new setrab 25 row cooler with spal, and I ordered new center console and shifter surround as I had cut my factory one up to fit the glide shifter so I sold it with my box.

Domiworks gearbox adapter is currently being made up, will have to get a custom flexplate made up as we can't get it to fit with a yellaterra flexplate without making the bellhousing adapter wider. So that and the install board and 8hp connector should be here in the next couple of weeks. 

Also put new brake lines in a few weeks back now. Wanted to clean up the bay a bit more and hide them/mount them a bit better. Just hoping the route I've taken doesnt get heated up too much by the dump pipe.

Glide is also now out and waiting to be picked up by the new owner in a couple of weeks when I get back from Fraser. Hopefully when I get back ill get cracking on interior and mounting the new shifter.

20220111_153243.jpg

20220118_143754.jpg

received_249623970582179.jpeg

20211217_170540.jpg

20211217_174134.jpg

20211217_174152.jpg

20211217_174159.jpg

20211217_175710.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/9/2022 at 7:13 PM, klutched said:

So rolls didnt happen. Got my car all done, aircon regassed, alignment, wheels balanced. Took it home to check everything the next morning, opened the radiator and there was some oil in the rad cap. Dropped the oil and there wasnt any water so all was good. Dropped the rad and it was a bit of a milkshake party. End up pulling the motor out that night. Still not sure where the oil was pushing into the water. Will get the head all checked out and decided to sell my cams and go to a set of kelford 270/274in 280ex 10.5mm lift. The block had a couple of cracks on the deck but nothing that I could see would mix the oil into the water. 

Motors now stripped down, just need to pick up another block and take it to my builder and get it all checked/machined/assembled. New cams should be here sometime this week so I'll be able to send the head away to get checked and setup for the new cams.

I have also sold my powerglide in order to fund a zf 8hp swap with goals to make the car more streetable and comfy to drive while still being able to maintain some drag racing functionality. We'll get the car back up and running and leave it on wastegate and focus on getting the box setup perfectly then we will add some power to it and see how it goes. Goal is to just drive it a lot more and be able to take my family out in it and cruise on the highway in 8th gear at 2000rpm while remaining fairly quiet. I have ordered shifter, TCU, domiworks adapter and bits and pieces and a new 25row setrab oil cooler/spal fan setup. 

Is there a particular model of the box that is recommended and where are you sourcing it from? This has me pretty interested as well for my 1JZ (currently with the standard A343 box). Also very interested to see how the turbolamik TCU goes. Is Tuned Performance assisting with this too? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Not a lot happening lately, have been away for work a little bit and now covid the last week. I got out into the shed on wednesday and finished pulling my block down. The new block Ive gotta get an oxy onto the crank gear as its about rusted on. Will be dropping the head and block/s down to builders hopefully this week coming and get some more progress going. 

New Kelford cams arrived and also got some CA625 head studs to beef it up a little.

I ordered some gearbox adapter parts as well that arrived a week and a half ago from HPR Tuning in Norway! For you other guys looking at doing this swap definitely talk to Helge from HPR about getting yourself a bolt in 8HP kit! It came with everything that I needed which worked out awesome and save some time custom making stuff up. The quality of products is second to none and will be worth every bit once its bolted all up :)

Have got some pics below of a bit of billet goodness 😍

Their billet oil pan, comes with gasket and new modified filter to suit the new extended pan.

The R33 bolt in kit came with the bell housing adapter, flywheel, trans crossmember, gearbox mount and bushes and I optioned in the driveshaft adapter. Saved me using a stock flexplate with an adapter behind it to go to the converter or getting a custom one made up. 

Last bits are the oil cooler adapter and the install board and cover instead of soldering wire in the mekatronics unit.

Still need to order the TurboLamik. Not sure if anyone watches zero to 60 on youtube but their swap gets me keeen!

20220404_160815.jpg

20220404_160856.jpg

20220404_161035.jpg

20220404_161042.jpg

20220404_161105.jpg

20220404_161155.jpg

20220404_161352.jpg

20220404_161716.jpg

20220404_161721.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 8HP gearbox is amazing so will be super interesting to see how it goes in a Skyline.  I've got the ZF in my Amarok and they're in all of the high end stuff at work (Touareg, Audi Q5, Q7, Q8, etc, etc) and it's phenominal in those.  It's probably the best transmission shifts at full noise I've ever experienced.  Even flat to the floor the shifts are perfect every time.  Very predictable.  It would 100% be my choice if I decided to do something on mine or any other conversion.  Would be awesome in an old school cruiser (Mustang/Camaro/any big Amaerican barge) converted to RB with the ZF.  Would be super nice just to Sunday drive.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/13/2022 at 7:18 AM, Looney_Head said:

sucks about the covid, but man those parts are nice. would you be comfortable sharing what the swap ends up costing you? i have been dreaming of DSG/latest auto goodness

Yeah for sure! I'm predicting it to be around the 12-13k mark in the car driving. That's with me doing all the work, ie: install, wiring, lines, mounting etc. Still undecided what I'm going to do for a tailshaft yet, go to a full custom one piece item or mod a factory shaft to suit. Would be nice to get something thats a bit lighter and stronger under there. 

Just about finished up a harness for an R31 Skyline RB30, Haltech Elite 750. Just waiting on a couple of connectors to turn up. Full Tefzel, Raychem DR-25 "street" harness. Turned out pretty nice, makes me excited to go all out building my own one. 

Also got the crank pulled out of the new block today. Oxy wasn't able to budge the crank gear at all so we had to resort to drilling and splitting the gear to get it off. So block will be getting dropped off tomorrow to be machined for the billet mains and girdle. Once that's done off to my engine builder for machining/resin/assembly. Head will also get dropped off to get checked over, clearance for new cams and setting up clearances. Probably get a light resurface to get it perfect to go back on. Should have it all back in the next month or so then onto sourcing a box and TCU. 

Forgot to mention I also picked up a new trigger kit, black and also 12T crank trigger. So my old one will get put up for sale soon along with my Link G4+ plugin ECU. If anyones interested shoot me a PM!

20220413_134107.jpg

20220413_134126.jpg

20220413_134141.jpg

20220317_202916.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geez man, not playing around here anymore are you? I remember how this all started, just another GTST with some simple smart mods. It performed brilliantly for what it was, now it's one of, if not the 'BEST' GTST build around and I know there's many. Very envious dude, hat tipped in your direction. 

 

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I think you need to rethink the samsonas and do one of these since your car isn't a turd any more. Hat tip to le shitbok too.

giphy.thumb.gif.207a1fbfe33274c4ea0afb94ed6d60ae.gif

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 14/04/2022 at 6:01 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

@admS15 don't worry brother, Mr @klutched here as started his brain washing exercise with me.

I still would prefer someone swap me their M3 LCI for my R33 🥲

Me too, unfortunately I think that's a pipe dream 😥 The 33 will have to do.

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 14/04/2022 at 6:10 PM, admS15 said:

Me too, unfortunately I think that's a pipe dream 😥 The 33 will have to do.

Plenty of clapped out R33s listed for $30k+ (minus the 1st one, that's not bad):

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/nissan/skyline/r33-series/coupe-bodystyle/?sort=Price

There's hope for us autistic R33 GTS-t owners.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 15/04/2022 at 11:30 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Plenty of clapped out R33s listed for $30k+ (minus the 1st one, that's not bad):

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/nissan/skyline/r33-series/coupe-bodystyle/?sort=Price

There's hope for us autistic R33 GTS-t owners.

That's so retarded. Most of those would of been 7-12k cars a few years back. What a time to own a 33. 25k would of got you a mint 33 GTR. Need time machine and flux capacitor.

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I paid $5k for my R33 S2 with ABS and all the factory parts (even wheels) thrown into the boot and back seat.

Unheard of now. 

If I knew back then they would be worth $30k now, would have picked up 10x of them and find someone that owns a farm that's willing to hire out floorspace.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
    • Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol
×
×
  • Create New...