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Qfm Brakepads. Still Having Problems With Dust And Squeel.

KrazyKong
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KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

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It's been a year or probably even longer since I put on QFM brakepads. I did not get the rotors machined as everyone I've showed them to, said they were fine and did not need it.

The problem since going onto QFMs has been the dust AND the noise. They squeel so much. I've taken the pads off and re-applied that special blue brakepad grease stuff at least 3 times now. It fixes things for a few days, then it goes back to total crapness.

What have I done wrong? I just replaced the rotors and brakepads on a family members Pulsar. No shims, no grease, nothing. And the car is silent as can be. It was just the cheapest pads and rotors they had at Bursons.

Should I have machined the rotors? Should I go get them done anyway since there is a local place that will do them for $15 each if I take them off the car and drop them in.

My previous pads were Nissan Hitachis and were silent with nowhere near as much brake dust.

Am annoyed I've not been able to solve this :(

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hardsteppa
hardsteppa

Street car? Remsa pads, fkn awesome and cheap as broooo.

GTSBoy
GTSBoy

To address the actual problem.....if you did not machine the rotors (and I agree it is not always necessary) then it is definitely one of the things you could/should try. Get a nice fresh surface wit

GTSBoy
GTSBoy

A lot of Evo spankers are happy with Project Mu.

Robocop2310 Experienced

Robocop2310

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Sounds to be the brakes pads are either the wrong size or not properly installed THEN you also need to check if your Pistons are hooked up properly. I had the same problem turned out they used aftermarket brake pads and it was the wrong size so kept making that squeaky sound.

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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To address the actual problem.....if you did not machine the rotors (and I agree it is not always necessary) then it is definitely one of the things you could/should try. Get a nice fresh surface without the old pads' binder material baked into/onto the cast iron. You'll want to scuff the new (but used) pads on a smoothish concrete surface to deglaze them and knock off any hard spots.

While you're working down there, check the runout on the wheel bearings, make sure there's not any movement in places that there's not supposed to be (like the caliper mounts), make sure th brake pad slider pins are clean and smooth, etc etc etc.

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KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

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Street car? Remsa pads, fkn awesome and cheap as broooo.

Bro you helped me install the QFMs when I bought your KYBs and Hardrace castor rods a couple of years ago. Yes it's just a daily driver.

The QFMs still suck. Yes I could just go ahead and replace them, but want to get my moneys worth out of these QFMs unless there is a market for second hand ones. I can't comprehand just how bad they are. The car stops on a dime, but I pay for it in squeel and dust. And that's why I picked QFM in the first place after reading reviews on dust from other brands. How much did you pay for Remsas?

I just recently bought some Protex I think it was pads and discs from Bursons for a family members Pulsar. No shims, no grease nothing. Just used a metal brush and cleaned the hub and installed them. Silent! Pads were only $39 for set.

If I go machine the rotors then maybe I should just get a new set of pads I don't know. But then I fear doing all this and they still squeel. That would suck.

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Trex Grand Master

Trex

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Mine squeal horrendously when coming to a slow stop with remsa / roadhouse pads, They get worse the hotter they get. Using t3 rotors, braided lines etc.

I've tried bedding in - this makes it worse,

crc copper grease,

brand new shims with oem grease,

roughing up the pad,

cleaning the disc,

sanding the disc with 1k paper

I'm at that point where i am going to buy bendix pads. Trouble is that i will be left with remsa that are barely used and were bought because they're a crossover pad.

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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Mine squeal horrendously when coming to a slow stop with remsa / roadhouse pads, They get worse the hotter they get. Using t3 rotors, braided lines etc.

I've tried bedding in - this makes it worse,

crc copper grease,

brand new shims with oem grease,

roughing up the pad,

cleaning the disc,

sanding the disc with 1k paper

I'm at that point where i am going to buy bendix pads. Trouble is that i will be left with remsa that are barely used and were bought because they're a crossover pad.

I'm onto my third set of Remsas now, also with T3 rotors, HEL braided lines etc. Stock R34 GTT calipers, never had any issues with noise, off or on the track. Strange.

I've also just pulled my anti squeal half shims out to try to address unever pad wear, was fearing for the worst re noise, nothing.

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KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

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I had the rear tyres replaced today. My rear rotors look to need machining. Is it worth trying to use the old pads? They are about half used, or just chuck them and start fresh with the machined rotors? I won't go hungry if you guys say yes, but it just means more money I cannot spend on the respray and then nistune/turbo replacements.

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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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no pads will cause squealing; no manufacturer put a compound together, glued them to a backing plate, stuck them in a car for a test, heard them squeal like a pig and said "great, let's get them on the shelves". And I mean up to and including sprint or endurance race pads.

Yes some more agressive pads are more likely to be noisey but it is always a problem with the car and/or installation.

Squeal is a high frequency vibration in something that shouldn't be moving. Like GTSboy said above machining rotors and pads may help if they aren't new (flat), any moving parts like sliding pins, caliper pistons, touch point between pistons and pads (which should be anti squeal shims), hub to disc mounting surface, caliper bolts tight. By far the most common cause is simply brake dust, so get everything nice and clean when you reassemble.

If the noise goes away when you add anti squeal goop between the piston and pad that tells you the problem is likely in that contact somewhere. So clean and check the shims are not bent etc

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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Intima SR for street car

Wow 700C temp rating, higher than the A1RM. How do the SR go on the track?

My Intima SS's died on the hills, need some convincing to go back to Intima after that..

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