nsw/act Ntk Afr Wideband, RB25 intake manifold & cams
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By Chris_Guthrie · Posted
So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before. So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running. So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. -
@niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙. -
Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol -
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By TurboTapin · Posted
You got your answer when everything was OK after disconnecting your return line from the FPR. Why in the world are you running a 460, 2200CC injectors, etc. on stock 8mm lines? Keep the pump, ditch the lines. I used both 8mm lines as my feed and one of my Hicas 10mm lines as return.
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